NEW YEAR’S EVE AND ADAM.............
2009 is a stone’s throw away and since we have decided that no terror threat is going to dampen our Surti spirits, its party time folks!
Celebrating the New Year’s Eve is a custom that Surtis have been following since long now. In the late 70’s there were parties held at home by married couples, with home cooked surti food. These had the crème de la crème of surti socialites swinging away in silk maxis to the Abba’s Dancing Queen, Super Trouper or The Beatles best on the gramophoneJagjit Chitra ghazals were played too. Some migrants, mostly of the officer crowd, would have pretty wives, elegantly dressed in sarees swaying a romantic waltz with their husbands.
Mid eighties saw an entire generation of youngsters who were fortunate enough to watch and imitate the style of Madonna, Wham, Michael Jackson on Doordarshan’s ‘Pop stars’. Disco parties were then organised at places like Shree apartment hall and upcoming bunglows,where youngsters set up their own music systems and played out cassettes of recorded English music to full blast. Denim was the dress code. Snacks like samosas from Kailash, Rasna sherbet and Khaman would be laid out at a table in the corner. Friends shared the expense.
Then came the nineties, Surat had its very own band ‘Phoenix’.Surat’s only rock star, the late and very handsome Rajiv Desai was its lead singer, with Aakar Patel[now in Mumbai media] at the guitar and Matu who dazzled at the drums. These were the guys who brought in Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd Jethro Tull, and The Who and rocked the parties. Making guys and gals in baggie pants and t-shirts feel the music. From the mid 90’s, some restaurants went all out to please the crowds with private bashes. Fancy strobe lights, wooden dance floors and professional music systems got included. Food spread boasted of veg and non veg hors’de vours and desserts as well.
The 21st century brought along with it state of the art music systems and D.J’s belting out popular hinglish numbers with trance beats. Farm houses, are converted to party venues now. Whether its Brian Hylands evergreen,’itsy bitsy teenie weenie yellow polka dot bikini ‘or ‘mauja hi mauja’, the Surtis will be swinging to global tunes this year. Thai and Mexican cuisine will be served, with bar tenders from Mumbai shaking mock tails. Surtis will shop especially for the occasion and visit saloons for a hair do. The colours for this season are aubergine, gold and the usual, black. Some will travel to Daman, Goa, and Mumbai to officially celebrate in ‘high spirits’.
In case you are not a dancer, here are some easy to follow, original Surti moves, try them out now!
1. Kotsafil’’s Kaipo Che-Pretend you are flying a kite and have a mock tangle while you swing your knees in and out ,without lifting your feet.
2.Salabatpura’s swing-Roll your hands around like binding a bobbin and clap to the beat of three while you take two steps to the right and hopscotch back ,repeat to the left.
3. Parle Point’s Pretence-Stand in one place and only shift your shoulders and abdomen to the beat twice to the right twice to left, swing head in the motion of saying no as you move, right hand up with fore finger pointed.
4. Maachi waad mania-Put both hands up and alternate actions to bless the world and change light bulbs, while hips hop to right and left.
5. Golwaad’s gyrations-Put wacko jacko to shame as you belt out pelvic thrusts to the beat of one, two, in, out. Cup hands to resemble snakes that sting the air.
So there, now that you have had the lessons, what are you waiting for dearies? Doesn’t matter if you spend it grooving to the F.M at home, Aaja nachle! It’s the best method to express love, happiness and fun. Have a funtastic 2009!
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What did the BCCI instruct the Indian cricket team? No Pakking!

SURTI N.R.I.’S CHRISTMAS WISHLIST.............
Last week, I received the Louis Vuitton Christmas newsletter. It gave a sneak peek into their fabulous new collection of the finest leather goods, against the beautiful backdrop of Paris while Sean Connery has done a three series shoot in the Bahamas to market their exclusive products. The letter suggests LV customers to prepare a Christmas wish list.
I wonder what our N.R.I.Surti brothers and sisters are preparing as their Christmas wish list this year. As we all know, every year the Surtis from America and U.K come home for shopping during winter holidays. For stuff silly, not spouses or new teeth!
The cash crunch due to cost cutting has unfortunately seen a recession in visiting N.R.I’s as well. So the poor little rich Surtis are calling up relatives back home to courier their goodies this year. Here is a list of what’s high in demand this season.
T.V. serial inspired Surti embroidered sarees. Sourced from Bombay market and Chautapul, synthetic sarees in multi coloured combination with a network of dazzling salma sitara work. Matched with satin petticoats and stringy backless blouses tailored by a ‘designer’ down the road. Embroidered ,net sarees with brocade petticoats, Parsi resham work and ready to wear chaniya choli styled sequinned sarees are hot cakes for N.R.I’s,this season.

2 gram gold jewellery; which is replicated to look like flashy, real stuff. Heavy chokers teamed with chunky dangler’s and bangles .Set with multicoloured stones to match sarees above. The rising costs have made this option very popular with the ladies who follow new trends. ’Balika vadhu’ style kangans, rhodium polish diamond sets, kundan jewellery, Victorian designs are on the N.R.G wish list.

Papads flavoured with garlic, jeera, dhamta etc. The most amazing ones are made by Jalaram in a little known village near Bardoli -Khoj. Besides papads, tea, dry mango chiriyas, fenugreek and sundried Ponk is also high in demand, as are pickles. Spices, and the popular good quality ‘ras ni hing’-the asafoetida that is the dry powdered resin from tree bark is highly sought after.Charoli,kalonji,shahjeeru is tucked into little zipper pouches as add ons,to balance out the parcel weight.
The process of couriering these goodies is also an art. Since the regular parcel service would cost a bomb, many small time courier services have sprung up in Surat, often run from home, which tie up with the bigger fish and provide cheap service for the local crowd. Goods reach within 4 days to the recipient and everyone is happy. Once the sender delivers the paraphernalia to the couriers; goodies are neatly packed in thick polythene and weighed, then further packed into a larger carton and sent off.
So, dear Surtis, if this season you do not see many hapless husbands carrying shopping bags around the town markets while they obediently follow the Mrs., you know that it’s because most N.R.I’s have shopped through a wish list this year.
Never mind if our marketing strategy is not as stylish as LV, never mind if we do not have any marketing strategy, whether it’s Christmas or Diwali, for N.R.G.’s East or West, Surat is the best!
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What did President Bush turn into when he was shoed in Iraq? A sitting duck!

HAULE HAULE HARMONY
When Yashraj Films released the music of their most awaited film this year, the janta were in for a surprise. In this age where hip hop ,techno and trance rule the roost of foot tapping music scores, the first music video aired was the song ,’haule haule’ which has a Harmonium playing its most important notes ,while Tablas and Dholaks hark beats in the background ,bringing in the sound of music from an era bygone! Needless to say, the simple song has turned into a huge hit.
In Tapi town, if one needs to buy a harmonium, or tablas, dholaks, nagaras for that matter, there is only one destination.Dhabgarwaad - situated between Limda Chowk and Bhagal ,is the street that has it all. The Surtis of this Sheri are called ‘Dhabgariyas’. They live above their shops.
As one enters Dhabgarwaad,on the right falls ‘Seep’ one of Surat’s first juice centres that Surtis regularly visit to enjoy a ‘ganga jamuna’,kaju anjir’.Seep is also popular with homemakers because it offers free and expert advice on how and where to repair a juicer, mixer, grinder in town.
The kiosks that lead on the bend in the road from then onwards, are owned by old, talented Surtis who carry forward family business of manufacturing and selling various musical instruments.
One of the ‘juna ane jaanita’ shop is that of Thakorbhai Chimanlal Tablawala.In the olden days, the hide of goats and buffaloes that go into the making of tablas, bongos and dholaks ,were skinned off the dead animals in Dhabgarwaad, itself. As generations changed hands in business, the younger ones now call in ready hides from Godhra, Sholapur, and Kolhapur; as is the case with wild wood which forms the frame of these instruments and comes in from various parts of Gujarat.
Tablas,Nals,Kongo etc. are only fitted, repaired and sold from here now.Bethaks’udhanis’ that form the stands on which tablas are settled in as well as tiny hatodis that are used to tune the same are also available. The hammers used to be made of ‘pittal’ once but are now available in iron versions.
Further on, shops on either side flaunt the flavour of the month’s festivals, kites, manja thread, fire crackers, Holi and rangoli colours, umbrellas, walking sticks, horse whips are sold here through the year.
At the other end of this colourful street are a few shops that manufacture and sell Harmoniums. With the demand for the same having gone down, these too have trickled down to a smaller number. ’Venilal ‘carries on the baton since it upgraded itself with selling fancy guitars, keyboards, drums etc. One could easily call it the ‘Furtados and sons’ of Surat.
There is a team of young music enthusiasts that carry on the tradition of selling these simple instruments that produce soulful music. Although they do not teach the same, they do recommend old teachers that run classes around town and visit homes to teach shastriya sangeet to Surtis.
Our city has changed its suburban shades to the beat of the 21st century, yet,Dhabgarwaad in the heart of Surat still renders out sounds of its age old splendour; and who knows, with changing trends of music these days, maybe someday, more Surtis would like to play old tunes too. Till then, Dhabgarwaad hums along in a haule haule harmony.
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What will Nano prove to be for the common man? Auto rescue!

RED RIBBON DAY...............
During the Mughal empire rule, just beyond the Mughal Sarai-the resting place for caravan travellers[which now houses the SMC offices], there came up an area known as the variyavi bazaar. This area was inhabited by women who ran one of the oldest professions in history, that of courtesans. One of them was a beautiful mistress of the nagarseth, called Suraj; many historians believe that Surat was initially named Suraj after her.
Down the ages, this place thrived on local customers. Over the years, women from different parts of the country and Nepal were brought in here. This area was actually the only officially known red light area of Gujarat. In 1967, a social worker named Leelaben Parekh surveyed this godforsaken place only to find that the maximum idols and photographs of God that she had ever seen in town were actually here! Incense sticks regularly spread aroma within the claustrophobic corridors where no beggar went by hungry and children were educated in the best schooling options available in the area. Leelaben sent her reports to Ahmedabad after which the state government and NGOs regularly set up awareness programmes for this section of women to help them with their health problems.
In the year 2003, the commercial sex workers were driven out of this area by the landlords of variyavi bazaar and an era of the chakla bazaar came to an end. Since rehabilitation for these women was not arranged for, the only aspect of their profession that changed was the geography .To top that, now their section was no more an 'organised 'one nor an official one, so, educating them about health awareness was out of the question.
Our city thrives on the migrant population who work as hired help for Surti Lalas be it in the trade of Textile at Pandesara, Diamonds at Varaccha, Labourers at Hazira.A large scale of this segment is involved in proliferation of premarital promiscuity, multiple sexual partnership with commercial sex workers and high homosexuality .Needless to say it more often than not makes them vulnerable to getting infected with STD.These migrants unknowingly spread the infection to their families as well.
While most countries and cities have film stars, models or religious leaders helping in the cause of health awareness, there are still a few words in Tapi town that often are either taboo or carry a sort of social stigma. One of them is AIDS, acquired immuno deficiency syndrome. Like science teachers in our school days, who would ask us to self study the chapters on the human reproductive system since they were too embarrassed to teach or talk about the same, many Surtis often refrain from discussing about this life threatening fact of life that our generation and the future ones need to be aware of . Surtis often feel that this issue does not concern them.
Health education for our labour clan is as equally important as educating our children. Various NGOs and government programmes run education on AIDS awareness for school children and a certain segment of the migrants, but, most of the workers resort to treatment of illness from various quacks around town which often puts their lives at risk.
While we practice utmost caution for our lives, often the ones who toil for us, fall easy prey due to lack of knowledge. It is one thing to be aware; another to show that you care, because as we all know, in the case of AIDS, prevention is the only option since there is no cure.
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What will the U.S. visa granted to our called-Modi-fied visa!

ODE TO UNDHIYU..............
As winter sets in, spreading its blanket of chill across the western belt of our country, it brings with it different meaning to different cities. Ahmedabad, 275 kms North of Surat is celebrating with cultural programmes in open air under starlit skies .Its people, are enriching themselves in the wealth of poetry, dance,drama and musical recitals. Mumbai, 275 kms South of Surat is celebrating winter fashion in style, whilst by lanes within Bandra are warming up with pre Christmas marketing. Surtis on the other hand, are celebrating winter with what they do the best-preparing Gujarati gourmet delights. Surtis are foodies and every season brings in with it a special menu for the trimester.
All roads leading in to Surat from Vapi onwards will see smoke billowing from roadside stalls .The farm labourers from the Tapi to Vapi belt prepare a little known dish called the umbadiyu in winter. The umbadiyu is a darker,smoky cousin of undhiyu.Made with wild black papdi from village Bhata, along with yam, sweetpotato, brinjal, it is marinated with ginger and chilli paste then baked in a clay pot which is sealed with aromatic leaves of Kaler and Camboi.
This pot is buried in a hole in the ground, covered with hay and cow dung cakes and burnt for about 40 minutes small portion of this delicacy is put in an earthen kullad at the mouth of the matka to check when its done. This sampler is fondly called a 'daakan[witch]'Umbadiyu is served with green chutney and buttermilk,often relished by the roadside.
The Parsis from Udavada add on eggs and pieces of chicken to the same and call it adadiyu [not to be confused with adadhiyu of Daman which would mean 375 mls of alcohol].
Winter's batch of Sugarcane crop will be put to good use ,grown in the numerous tiny villages that surround our town,carried out proudly in a jingling procession of decorated bullock carts to various sugar factories. Salempak, Methipak, Khajoorpak, Gunderpak are sweets prepared to fight the winter chill. A special khadiya-mundi mutton is prepared in most Khatri homes.Fresh garlic will be chopped for' lasan nu kachu' as well as be sprinkled over vegetables and various egg preparations. Of course our king green millet-Ponk will be much awaited. But over and above all these preparations,the meal that is considered as the ultimate meal in Surati communities is 'Malai,puri and undhiyu'.Many homes in Surat traditionally invite family and friends in winter for the same,the preparation is often marinated overnight for all the swad to sink in.
And this dearies is my salute to the unbeatable,irresistible exclusive Surti preparation that does not taste as good anywhere else ,the world over
–The undhiyu –
'O sweet creatures of Katargaam's creeper vine.You, the green papdi tender as one would ever find,with fragrance that lingers on the fingers that string you,
Surrounded in the richness of yam from Puna Kubharia,plantains ,potatoes,sakariyas,stuffed wild brinjals and what have you ,
Enriched in flavour by seaseme oil and green garlic,prepared on the sim, marinated in a chilli ginger paste; with supple fenugreek dumplings that enhance your taste.
While asafetida and ajwain are tempered to tease,as taste buds tuck in coconut and corriander,thoughroughly pleased.
The epitome of Tapti cooking ,a gourmet's delight ,an art to achieve,an exotic treat,a taste impossible to beat..............here is to you,'O Surti Undhiyu!'

Tapi Town Tattle-The two words that are taboo in friendship henceforth?----Dost,Aana!

STONE AGE TO SPACE AGE..................
For all us wishful Moonrakers out here, Chandrayaan 1 seems to be making dreams come true. Exploring boldly into the final frontier where few men have gone before, to the land of lovers -the Moon .While mere mortals rejoice with the celestial pictures it sends back, very soon, we Surtis will be able to observe the Moon, Space and various Planets through our own Hubble adaptation..................
If you’ve noticed, there is a majestic piece of architecture coming up at the corner of Citylight .With its lofty Cuddapah stone exterior and an interior that will boast of one of the country’s most modern Planetarium and Art mueseum.At present the project is called the Science Centre.
By midsummer next year, the SMC is hopeful to shift and inaugurate the Sardar Vallabh Patel museum and planetarium from Chowk to Citylight. This area originally was part of the Panas cotton farm project that was once a walker’s paradise .Panas agriculture farm still exists albeit now has lost its quaint old charm to more modern roads and crazy traffic flowing within the fields of cotton crop.
Many famous ancient observatories around our country were made in the early eighteenth century by Sawai Jai Singh the second. Known as Jantar Mantar, they still exist in Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi and Ujjain. A clever politician and keen astronomer, Jai Singh owned all the land between Delhi and Southern shores of Gujarat including Surat, from where he sent out a fact finding scientific mission to Europe.
The museum at Surat was put up in the premises of the Leiy Weaving Shed at the East end of the Mecca Bridge, just across Victoria Garden [Gandhi Baugh].The then collector of Surat-Mr.Winchester,organized setting it up and it was named after him. Locals would call it ‘ajayabghar’or’jadughar’.Housing stones that depicted various phases of the Moon, ancient text, sandalwood carvings,porcelain,stuffed animal,bird species, exotic marine fossils ,exclusive jari and lace work, it used to generate a lot of curious visitors then.
Post Independence, it was revived and renamed Sardar Vallabh Patel museum; inaugurated by Shri Lal Bahadur Shastri on 6-5-1956.Unfortunately, along with the city, it has faced a number of floods in 1959,1968,1970,1998 and of course the most recent and worst-2006.The museum has lost unretreivable valuables in these floods. The department of Museology of M.S.University of Baroda and the National Museum of Delhi have been most helpful in reviving what was left.
Since its inception, the most valuable artefacts on display have been donated by the philanthropic gentry of our large hearted town. As the SMC prepares with state of the art equipment for the new planetarium, the museum in its new avatar will display more than 8000 specimens and is open to donations by us citizens.
Once upon a time SMC had decided to shift it to the fort but now, the museum and planetarium will hold a coveted place in Tapi town.Soon, the Sun, Moon and stars won’t be out of reach for us Surtis.
Tapi Town Tattle-In these days of recession, President Obama has changed the three golden words from ‘I love you’ to ‘Yes, we can’!

NATYASHASTRA NOT OUR SHASTRA?
Around the year 200 B.C, Bharat muni, the venerable sage, penned what is considered the Sutra, the Bible of classical Indian dance, rhythm and drama-Natyashastra. Written in Sanskrit, it is the fifth Veda-a compilation of recitation from Rigveda, melody from Samveda, the concept of acting from Yajurveda and sentiments from Athervaveda.

Natyashastra the oldest existent script on Indian art and culture is the base on which popular Indian classical dances such as Bharat Natyam, Kathak, Odissi etc.are based. It is the path that leads to the divine process of creation of dramatic art and its relation to the Vedas.

If a Surti would want to look up classes offering training for the same, chances are the results would show more dodhiya, salsa, filmy dance classes than those of traditional dance shailees.

While Surtis are eager zealots when it comes to dance any day, they prefer it to be freestyle and trendy.

Traditional dance has but few takers in our town, even when stalwarts like Hema Malini come in to perform a ballet occasionally; it’s more about her star appeal rather than the performance.

For people who deem this culture old fashioned, lets not forget that it has been kept alive through the spirit of people like the Late Protima Bedi, one of the most modern women of her times.

Dance diva Mallika Sarabhai once said,’ people are looking for tarat natyam in Bharat natyam these days’.

’Arangetram’ has turned into a major money spending event, once performed with rented gear and as a tribute to Guru and graduation, it is now a gala social status event .

Since Navratri is now over, Surtis are already gearing up for New Years Eve in December, enrolling and spending enormous amounts for western dance classes around Tapi town. The ‘dancing sirs’ will not only get them from fat to fit with fun, but will also get them geared for celebrating various disco parties held during Christmas season.

Sadly, over the years, the traditional Indian dance classes in town for Kathak, Odissi,
Bharat Natyam, for which we do have qualified Gurus, have stagnated. If you have happened to have learnt it as a child in Surat, you may very well be assured; your kids will be taught by the same guru.

We are yet to have an institute of state level caliber. With few takers and ever rising inflation, it has become difficult for most institutions to break even and progress providing the culture its ethos.

Inspite of which the ‘juna and jaanita ’teachers have held up the banners through come what may circumstances. At a very nominal tuition fee, they distribute ancient knowledge that would be considered invaluable in another city or state.

I recently received an e-mail that depicts the various health benefits of finger‘mudras’ when performed on a regular basis. Health and trend conscious Surtis lapped it up.

I have a bad feeling that just as food, fashion and western dance are accepted and popular in Surat only after they are altered to the Surti version, most people in Laladom would want some fusion in ethnic Indian dance culture, to be inspired enough to follow it.

Knowing only too well, how disastrous the result could be! I mean, can you imagine a Surti version of even the simple Mudras-‘Patak’,’Tri –Patak,’’Ardh-Patak’, to begin with? Now that would certainly be blasphemous!!!!!!