Monday, September 20, 2010

EAT, PRAY, LOVE

Hollywood hottie Julia Roberts’s new flick may or may not hit bull’s eye at the box office in India, but the truth is, Surti’s have been living on this mantra, as a way of life; especially so, in these past few fortnights .

The’ Adhik maas ‘(extra month, not fat, silly) of the Hindu calendar year, insured many a festival to intermingle with the faith and festivity dates of another. And, Tapi towners have been religiously following the regime of ‘khai, pi ne jalsa karo ‘(eat, drink and make merry), even as they prayed all the way, doing so.

The Shravan month was observed with the obvious absence of foodies at all public eateries, contrary to popular belief, fasting in Surat is more like feasting. Surtis stuck to the rules of eating one meal a day which was more like an all inclusive fare from sherbet to shrikhands.Also, the Ghanchi, Rana and Khatri communities in town believe that Shravan is the month when “fartu nahi khaavanu pun tartu khavai” (don’t consume that which roams, but do consume that which swims) A special fish breed called ‘Modar’ known for its rich fillet of eggs is a pricey delicacy that’s part of Surti Shravan must haves.

Even as Shravan threatened to fizzle Iftar’s sizzle, the holy month of Ramadan for our Muslim brothers at Chowk, Zhampa bazaar and Rander saw no dearth of enthusiast eaters. The bylanes beside the beautiful Chunarwaad Masjid in the city of mosques, where little boys run around after the evening Azaan, saw many a retired rayeez moonlighting annual festive Rangooni fare; but, the real treats are within the walled city homes where morning Sehris begin with fish shaped bread and nalli niharis simmered on a slow boil. The Sopariwallas at Shalimar Baug savour an exotic Kheema salan receipe, prepared exclusively for brekkar on Eid morning.

Early mornings also saw the Jains venture out to the derasars for ‘pratikaman’ and ‘parna’, during ‘Pajyushan, the,’ the eight days of abstinence that culminate into repentance for the misdeeds of the previous year. As they went off fresh greens, home made meals concocted via age old traditions found steam.Dal dhoklis, banana and dried fenugreek bhajiyas ,sweet and sour pancakes, made up for mini meals along with thick warm curd. The exquisite Chintamani Parshvnath temple, a treasure trove of intricate carvings that was built during the regime of Emporer Aurangzeb during 1699 A.D.is by far one of the most precious pulchritudinous premise of architecture from that age. Well visited during these pious days, it is surrounded by kiosks that sell dry snacks such as gathiya, paasa, fulwadi, kharkhariyas that make for yummilicious tea time serves.

The Krishna Janmashtami and dahi handi events sailed smooth, with people power fuelled enthusiasm; albeit, some unfortunate souls were caught with a full hand, so to say.

Even as the D day for all of the above was shared with the advent of the God of fun things-Ganesha, there was a harmonious, happy mood flowing around town. As versatile as the good God Ganesha himself is, is the cuisine that Surtis will be seen relishing around pandals put up in his glory. Grub streets around town buzz up like never before, doling out paani puri to nylon dosas to vada paav and more. Kabootar Khana’s age old replica idol as well as the ‘all that glitter, its gold’Daliya Sheri special, are the ones that witness most devotees.

German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche had once said that, “I would believe only in a God that knows to dance”, lets hope our dearest Ganesha keeps him busy up there, after all, Surtis are busy playing “Munni badnaam ‘numbers for him down here and loving it.