Sunday, May 29, 2011

Panjarapol : Surviving Pataliputra's Prototype

The ‘Rampurva Bull Capital’ is India’s outstanding sandstone depict sourced from Bihar. It adorns the Rashtrapati Bhavan beneath Lutyen's dodecastyle portico. Built during Emperor Asoka’s regime (350BC) it has the words ‘Panesu Saymo’inscribed on it .The closest translation of this Pali script in Sanskrit means ‘sarveshu pranayshu samyamah ‘ meaning ‘all living creatures are equal’. It represents the veterinary profession as one of India’s best heritage.

Historians have enough reason to believe that India’s veterinary hospitals were first established in Asoka’s regime ,where wards were put up to treat and shelter animals both indoors and outdoor, medicinal herbs were provided for and at times even imported via sea route from other countries. Historians also believe Surat’s Banniyan Hospital is one amongst the survivals of its prototype at Pataliputra, founded by the Maurya Monarch* (* V.A.Smith-Early History of India).

While the Europeans called it so in their books because it was run by the Banniyans (Vanias) in Surat, this hospital which has been mentioned in many European and American history books is none other than the one we know as ‘Panjarapol’- the institution on Ghodod road that tends to all animals and birds which take ill; providing them a safe asylum.

The official status of this historical hospital states it to be more than 250 years old. During Aurungzeb’s regime, a cow could not be slaughtered in important places like Surat.According to an account, the Hindus payed butchers a fixed amount to spare cattle. Any attempts made by the English merchants to obtain beef were strongly opposed and would lead to mayhem. In 1608, an intoxicated Englishman named Thomas Tucker killed a calf which led to a riot of sorts in Tapi town. (Journal of John Jourdain 1608-1617)

J. Ovington has mentioned in his travelogue how Surtis considered charity towards animals as an act of great virtue. Diseased, lame, infirm cows, buffaloes, dogs, horses, mules, oxen, sheep, goats, monkeys, poultry, pigeons, birds and turtles found refuge and relief at the Panjarapol. In the ancient times, part of its land was used to cultivate medicinal herbs and grass for cattle graze.Ovington also mentions a hospital for fleas, bugs and vermin which existed next to it in the 17th century. The Encyclopedia Britannica states that this ward which was meant for rats, mice and insects,’ frequently hired beggars from streets for a stipulated sum to pass a night on the express condition of suffering them to enjoy their feast without molestation. Every night a poor fellow suffers himself to be preyed upon, while being strapped naked on the cot.’

Present day, Panjarapol has 7000 creatures under its roof. It has the lowest death rate in the country at 0.3-0.4 %, as well as the most modern hospital for animals in India with extremely qualified vets and state of the art facilities for x-ray, laparoscopy, sonography, cardiogram, endoscopies, blood serum analyzers, photo microscope etc.

The Nandini hospital here which has conducted thousands of life saving operations on various animals recently began its ‘Mission anti plastic’. Rescuing stray cows brought in by the SMC, it has conducted 50 operations to remove plastic and other toxic waste from the stomach of these speechless animals who suffer silently. Almost 35-50 kilos of plastic bags along with blades, iron nails, bottle corks, paper clips, straws etc find way into the stomachs of these cows via garbage on roadsides. The plastic melts within the cow’s stomach and starts lining it as well as the intestines affecting food absorption which leads to the cow turning anorexic. Such cows tire easily; losing their glossy sheen and suppleness, before ultimately dying a slow, painful death.

The least we can do to preserve our heritage of kindness towards these living creatures is to begin disposing garbage responsibly and stop using plastic bags.

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Voyage To Surat- J Ovington

Time Traveler In Surat

A good read in hand turns every travel trip into a two- fold adventure. Travelogues in particular, are perfect in providing the experience of a new culture. Such books encapsulate a different age in time while simultaneously enabling the reader to perceive it with the eyes of a writer.

Centuries since it was published in 1696, John Ovington’s travelogue-A Voyage To Surat in the year 1689, remains oft quoted a favourite and of the greatest possible value to historians and readers alike, who want a glimpse of Surat in the days of yore. Popular in the Australian National Library on one hand, this journal by an English Chaplain provides for case study to many Universities in the United States of America, on the other.

Considered one of the liveliest travel books, Ovington has been described as ‘a shrewd and practical observer of men and manners and by no means devoid of a sense of humour’, on his detailed account of Surat, as he saw it at the end of the 17th century.

Poet Laureate Naham Tate, famous author of the metrical paraphrase ‘The Psalms’, wrote a poetry on Ovington’s ‘Voyage to Surat ‘part of which reads,
’you have so lively Your Discoveries writ, We Read and Voyage with you as we sit, With you hoise Sail and reach the Indian shore; the real scene cou’d scarce delight us more.’

On 11th of April, 1689, Ovington set sail from Gravesend on East India Company’s vessel-Benjamin. While the first hundred odd pages provide for description of the exotic islands he visited en route from Madeira to Bombay, it is upon him embarking at Surat and the two and a half years that he spent there, that accounts for the true essence of the book.

Ovington’s profound and prolific proses provide a detailed and disciplined study of Surat’s contemporary life, customs, religious observances and politics. His diligent observation of the skilled commerce and cuisine that the town till date remains famous for, gives a picturesque glance of Surat city, whose bazaars, he wrote were ‘more populous than any part of London’.

Describing the Castle Green trade grounds and the ‘Kanchanis’-nautch girls who provided entertainment for traders by the river Tapi, John weaves the reader in the warp and weft of Surat’s rich silks, velvets, and taffeta. His text sparkles about the splendour of diamonds, rubies, sapphire and topazes; it is aromatic of spices that were shipped in and out namely nutmeg, pepper, cinnamon and mace.

It accounts how custom duty was charged at $ 1000 for an English ship of 400 tons. He describes how,’ Gold of Suratt is so very fine that 12 or 14 per Cent may be often gained by bringing it to Europe’, how silver had very little alloy in it, that 60 copper pice summed up to a Roupie and often bitter almonds were passed around as currency!


The crux of the commerce lay in the calm that the city functioned with.Ovington points out how despite of Surat being a conflux of several nations, this port from where Haj pilgrims sailed out, was a Mecca for universal merchants where foreign nationals such as Europeans, Arabs, Persian, Turks Armenians and locals merged in large numbers, yet, there was not a single capital punishment carried out in 20 years.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/CCIS-2105-Queer-film-fest-to-showcase-rainbow-of-cinematic-voices/articleshow/8474481.cms

Sunday, May 15, 2011

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/surat/Caged-Surtis-flap-on-Facebook-for-airport/articleshow/8325982.cms

Surat Airport : Udan Ghotala

Summer travel plans of Surtis have given reason to Tapi town tattle of a different kind this year. It does not matter whether the luxury loving lala is bound for America or the Alps, for; the journey begins and ends with a 4 hour trip via either the rail or road routes.

Left in the lurch regarding increased air connectivity, with promises that were meant to be broken, Surat is abuzz with protests and pointers. While some caged Surtis are flapping on Facebook, there is flutter at socialite evenings and fury within sheris.

Here are a few Surti sawaals, statements and suggestions that this columnist happened to eavesdrop upon, last week:

‘We should not allow any politicians to land or take off from Surat airport. When we can’t use it, why should they?’

‘Officially, more buffaloes have run on the tarmac than flights’

‘May, no early June, no mid July, will someone tell me which year do they plan to begin more flights by?”

‘It’s all a big bad nexus of people with vested interests, I tell you.’

‘Fastest growing city, fastest growing GDP, slowest when it comes to travel.’

‘Sab dhandha hai but gundaa hai ye!’

‘ $%#@*&() ! (Unprintable body parts), aaprey kidhhu tey final, ahiya kaai budlay vudlay nahi!

‘My Chanel #5 smells like soot by the time the train reaches Mumbai’

‘What’s the point to flying business class when you access or end it by going cattle class?’

‘Trains take a toll on my Jimmy Choos and Vuitton luggage, but the under construction roadways are equally nightmarish to travel by.”

‘It costs half as much to fly from Vadodra to Delhi, than from Surat.’

‘Hamarey Calcutta mein aisa nahi hota’

‘I heard Kingfisher Airline might use our airport as a hanger for its flights’

‘Does the airport come under SEZ? Yes? Can we have a bar there?’

‘Let’s not forget, we can’t bootleg booze via the airway’

‘The Mumbai diamond industry is paying to not let us prosper’

‘No, the local diamond merchants want to park their private jets here’

‘Havey maarey heera nathi ghasva.’

‘I used to fly from Mumbai to Surat for Rs.75 via Safari Airways in 1974’

‘The Vayudoot flights that began thereafter rattled more than a railway coach’

‘I think the NRI’s will make a private airport at Ena gaam or Bardoli before ours takes off ’

‘Hu vaat karey chey? Khareykhar kay? Hachu bol jou!

‘Woh toh thherey pardesi, saath kya nibhayengey?’

‘Remember the ‘shootout at Surat airport’ incident? That was the only time it saw some real action’

‘Maybe we should just rent out all that space for military training, at least more helicopters will fly in, that way.’

‘Nazar lag gayee hai apney airport ko’

‘Can we hold a yagna? Like they did for the success of Indian cricket team?’

‘Hey bhagwaan laaj rakhjey, baaki badhu locha lapsi chey’

‘If they are not planning to begin more flights, we builders should be permitted to make more high rises in that area.’

‘They are saving the issue as a vote bank game plan for 2012’

‘At least we were saved from the false pilots scam, no? ‘

‘How will we ever have good doctors visiting our town without air connectivity?’

‘It is emotional connectivity for us migrants, no one understands our pain!’

‘Can we arrange for some politician’s daughter to get married in Surat? That should do the trick!’

Monday, May 9, 2011

SUMMER EXPOSURE : ART SMART

Over the weekend, the otherwise barren lawns of Science Centre, Citylight, were strewn with youth lounging in languorous fashion. Armed with art and attitude, adding a summerish bougainvillea bloom to the serious grey architecture; they camped there from morning to night with a proud and confident presentation of their works.

Thanks to the generosity of SMC along with the support of the city mayor, final year students of VNSGU were able to share with denizens, their best created works of art and sculpture at the Science Centre. An apt venue for displaying art in Tapi town; it provides for the required height, distance and lights under which paintings large and small as well as sculptures tiny and majestic, can be comfortably viewed , in all their meaningful glory. Besides, the cool, cool air-conditioning makes for a breezy ambience since the air-con ducts are strategically placed.

Of course, setting up any exhibit is a tall order. But, then again, whats the point of being young and talented if you can’t make adverse circumstances work for you. After all, all the works on display were a result of endless hours of sweaty toil fuelled by the passion of perfection. Much care had been taken for appropriate placement and regarding the route that visitors were directed to, for absorbing in the art work visually, section wise. This was a fresh and unpretentious bouquet of Surat’s future artists, striking poetry with their elements of design.

There was a fine array of Indian aesthetics in lithographs, sketches, self portraits, wood cut prints, photography, sculptures made from clay, recycled cast iron and paper, along with graphic designs and product packaging .A jury from Baroda was invited to judge and announce the Jagdeep Smart awards for best students from the fields of painting, applied art and sculpture. Introduced this year, in memory of the late professor, to enhance and encourage the efforts of the art inclined interns.

In a town that is perceived as one which is still honing its art skills, we gratefully have the Smart legacy to live up to. Having been educated at prestigious institutions such as the Sir.J J School of Arts Mumbai, the Benaras Hindu University and M S University Baroda, the Smart family members have constantly strived to cultivate the culture of art in Surat.

Pioneered by the legendary Vasudeo Smart, whose works breathed life into traditional Indian tales. Converting holy verse to vision, tactfully depicting on canvas hundreds of little paintings to merge as one story, be it Ramayana or Jain transcripts. Two of his books- Roop Samhita and Bharat Na Bhint Chitro are collectors’ editions. Having traveled, taught and exhibited through the country, this critically acclaimed artist returned to home base to enrich local students with hands on experience, till he breathed his last.

His nephew, late Jagdeep Smart stepped into his shoes of not only being a brilliant artist but also a popular professor and poet. It was this multi awarded gentle soul who developed the fine arts course for Surat, with a vision to broaden the city’s art horizon. A vision that his son, Rajarshi Smart and the faculty at VNSGU now carry forward ; winner of the Gujarat State Lalit Kala Academy himself, Rajarshi’s colourful kitschy collection of ‘Autorickshaw art’ is in demand, doing the rounds at exhibits around various cities through India and shall some day soon, arrive in Surat.

Amongst the impressive art work on display at Science Centre, which I learnt upon closer inspection, was that of the young and upcoming talent Krishnapriya Smart. Needless to say, she has all the makings of being a chip off the old block.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Summer shopping : Souvenirs

Now that we are over and done with the brouhaha over Britain’s wedding royale, it will be oft remembered via the souvenirs that were splurged on, for the same.

No matter what your allowance for a holiday is and whether or not you blow it up, souvenirs are those pleasant little somethings that fit into even the most clinched shoestring budget ,which you carry back home as mementos and gifts .

They are extremely popular because like squirrels, who collect nuts and bury them for winter treats, most of us humans too tend to collect some paraphernalia or the other; hoarding it in secret places to savour precious memories or exhibiting the same with pleasure and pride.

From Swiss bells to NYC t -shirts, wooden Amsterdam shoes, European lace, busts of South Asian Buddha and Egyptian Nefertiti, Indian idols of versatile Ganesha, beaded African animals and Australian fridge magnets; they can be cheap and cheerful or chic and classy. When it comes to collecting souvenirs, its different strokes for different folks.

On visits to Surat during summer holidays as a child, I would be fascinated by the antique lamps and bottle collection that my maternal uncle had. Blown glass in all kinds of colours and shapes with designs and grooves that provided kaleidoscopic visions when held against the light, from antique markets of Burma, England, Belgium, Persia and other countries whose names I couldn’t then pronounce, would find way and weight in his secret loft .Preserved in soft muslin, he would bring them down fortnightly to polish, at times gifting them away generously to people who valued their artistic quality.

My dear friends Ritu and Rajan Talwar, whose various warm homes have been a great refuge to me in all times of life’s emergencies be it marriage, plague or flood ,have a tasteful crystal curios collection; pieces of which they have aptly put up within nooks and corners to spell subtle style.

Surti socialites Bina and Rajaram Parikh, one of the most gracious hosts I know in suburban Surat, love to collect bone china mugs depicting cities they traveled through, worldwide and have set them up in a glass cabinet within their ever busy kitchen, from where unending treats are conjured up for lucky local guests and celebrities who visit town.

Tapi town’s eminent and philanthropist businessman, Kanhaiya Lalbhai Contractor is a Gujarati gourmand and little known to others is the fact he is a great cook himself. While one can find memorabilia miniatures of every wonder of the world at his dwelling amongst other precious sculptors and art, his dearest collection is that of menu cards; collected from restaurants the world over, where he has relished fine dining.

Nafisa Tyebjee, whose home is as elegant as the jewellery she designs for Surat’s elite and her ever smiling husband Juzer, have a grand display of the most exquisite and intricate coffee spoon collections in ceramic, steel, silver and gold, hung in a glass and wooden case on a wall facing their dining table.

Science center’s ‘Souvenir shop’ has little to offer in terms of Surti stuff. Other than picture postcards, mugs and a few odd books by SMC, the other stuff is just general gifts that lack local flavour, speaking of which ,Surat’s food is a hands down winner with visitors who make sure to carry back edible souvenirs in form of bhusu,ghari,khaja,ponk or padvali

As for me, Mickey and I have a growing collection of tequila shot glasses. Although they are not put to much use in our dry state city, they never fail to remind us of happy hours spent pubbing, clubbing and moonlighting with fellow Surtis, the world over.