SURAT’S CULTURAL HERITAGE………….
Tapi town is celebrating world heritage week with much enthusiasm and aplomb this year. With SMC’s new partnership policy of conserving whatever if left of our ancient monuments, hand in hand with the Surtis, the citizens are more aware of the same than ever before.

The core city areas of what was once the inner walled city that clustered around the castle and town square-Chowk, -Sonifaliya, Vadifaliya, Nanavat, Gopipura is where Surat’s elite lived in the ancient times. In grand row houses that were supported with huge magnificent logs of Burma teak shipped in at Rander,with Sun roofs in the centre that let the air, light and shine in, prominent Surti families belonging to diverse castes and subcastes of Hindus,Jains,Vaniyas and Brahmins lived here in collective numbers.

A lot of Surat’s culture was influenced from these areas. The rich trader Gopi, whose vision and philanthropy greatly contributed to Surat gaining importance as a port town after the Portuguese burnt Rander, our popular poet Narmad along with providing vast contributions to the Gujarati language was also a torch bearer of modern change, who not only preached but also practiced social reforms such as widow remarriage.Virji Vora, the merchant prince, one of the richest in the world in his times. He out bid the British while trading for commodities like pepper, opium, gold, silver, cotton etc.He dictated his terms to the Europeans, through his wide spread international network.

The biggest virtue within the walled city was that of good reputation. For Surtis, a well respected name was everything. A family’s general image of respectability was enough to gain financial mobility without actual cash transactions. A small sapling of Tulsi would be sent to the money lender with a note of request from the one in need and that would be enough to provide capital, by word of mouth. People were respected for their lineage and not by the liquidity of wealth that they possessed. Till this date, Surtis from well known families in these areas, who had seen better days, are looked upon as,’bau saara manas hata’.
The various other self contained communities around the inner core vastly contributed to the city’s emerging culture.
The close knit and very efficient Daudi Bohras who excelled at trading, the enterprising Parsi community who also brought Shakespeare theatre into town, the pious Edrus Saiyyeds known for their scholarship and abilities to perform miracles.
The royal Nawabs of Surat, Bela and the Kazis [judges] and Bakshis [holding rank], who owned positions and land,
The unabashed Ghachis and Golas, who pressed oil and pounded rice respectively and later, turned to manufacturing of Jari that made Surat world famous.
The Khatri and Kanbis who were the weavers and artisans, the Patels who were the zamindars set out wages for artisans along with community norms; all brought in their own distinct language, laws and food.

Since the city thrived on trade, had International exposure with an ability to absorb outsiders, Surat was seeped in diverse culture that has mingled over the years to turn into,’ Surti nature.’

With finance, friends, food and fun, Surti lalas learnt to live life king size.



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SATURDAY NIGHT FERVOUR! DESPITE ‘DEARTH-E-DISCO’
A recent trend in weekend parties is,’ The D.J. night’ .Due to ‘dearth-e- discothèques’ in town, Surtis now organize dance parties at their own private premises to boogie their blues away.So, within a room, hall or terrace, you have a sound system that blares away, put up along with a strobe and some flashy laser lights, all handled by the local D.J .The invitees wade in from 10 P.M.onwards to dance in wild abandon through the night. Friends take turns to host these, depending on whose parents are away on that weekend.

The reason for this trend may also be a result of the so called’ Western Dance’ classes which have sprung up nineteen to the dozen, of late, in Tapi town . These classes are efficiently run by amateurs, who love to admire themselves in the mirrors while students prance to their tunes. Known as the ‘dancing sirs’, they promise to turn our Surti ‘lalarinas’into ballerinas. Shops in arcades around town are rented out and converted into dance studios to serve the purpose.

Enthusiastic housewives, teenagers and children throng these and pay atrocious amounts to learn desi freestyle versions of what is presented to them in the name of dance. Tapi Tango, Surti Salsa, Wishful Waltz, Chulbula Cha Cha Cha etc; performed on Indipop music by the flexible eye candy .Surti mommies and aunties who look upon these as a great place to loose weight are getting into the groove here. Shaking a leg to,’ hips don’t lie’ [how apt] in hope that it takes their’ breadth’ away.

Unfortunately, most Surti Hubbies do not share the excitement of performing fancy moves with their now’ bitter ‘halves. Consequently, the ladies either search for a willing female partner or dance by themselves or with their own shadows to enact out these newly learnt skills.Surti men, on the other hand, like to dance in groups.‘Jhoond ma Nacho ‘is their motto. So irrespective of the fact that Bruce Springsteen is crooning, ’Dancing in the dark, ‘or Bryan Adams is soulfully singing,’Everything I do, I do it for you,’ the guys are busy, hopping away in a circle that would remind you of’ ring a ring of roses’ from kindergarten. Talk about male bonding, man!

The all-time favourite step of all Surti men is easily the ‘Kaipo che’ and ‘Lapate’ step that resembles the act of kite-flying and rolling the thread reel. The other popular step is a version of ‘two taali garba ’with an action of boxing and hopscotch added to it. Sometimes, they mime fervently playing a guitar or the drums too! Whether they are dancing at weddings, parties, Navratri or New Year’s Eve, Surti men are sure to shake their booty, in the above mentioned ways.

All in all, it would be rare, to see a Surti who is not raring to go for it unabashedly on the dance floor. As the women jerk hysterically to ‘sexy, naughty, bitchy me’, men jovially jump to,’ another brick in the wall’ and kids perform acrobatics to,’dard-e-disco’, in the name of dance, they do so powered by the great Surti spirit and freedom of expression, ‘aapde toh bhai aavaj chiye’.Thus, the evening culminates into a freestyle of-
‘Salsa, nacho and tang-o’ combo [no reference to food here, mind you.]
So rejoice dearies and celebrate Saturday night’ fervour’without inhibitions and ‘prohibition’ because, D.J. Nights are here to stay as Surtis sway their stress away!