At the Core-Book review

AT THE CORE-GLIMPSES AT SURAT’S GLORY


Surat is one of the fastest growing cities in the world sparkling as bright as diamonds that are polished here(80% of the entire world's uncut stones are polished here); a town by the river Tapi which holds its place in history with illuminating memories of a glorious past. Here is where the Sun God presided, the city named Suryapur after him, Rander on the yonder shore named after his wife Rannade, Tapi known as his daughter-Suryaputri, part of which is renowned as Gupt Ganga, where the Ganges visits to wash her sins.

The original Gateway to India for the globe, where flags of 84 countries once furled high making a statement for the town’s trading talent. With the advent of visitors and settlements came the array of heritage that weaved itself within this textile town’s social fabric and till date reflects in Surat’s culture and construction.

‘At the Core’, Understanding the built heritage of Surat and Rander - a book by Urban Management Centre (UBC),supported by Surat’s Municipal Corporation (SMC), provides a peek into the past, within the walled city which was once a melting pot of global culture and commerce. Co-authored by UBC’s founder director Manvita Baradi and deputy director Meghna Malhotra, the book is beautifully wrought and consistently appealing.

Post an introduction to Tapi town by SMC Commissioner Ms.S.Aparna, the book begins with Surat’s extensive dateline which goes way back to 300BC, when it was known as Laat Pradesh and proceeds to its position as the best performing JnNURM city in present times. This documentation goes far deeper to the core within; providing Surat’s history to the significance of data.

An expansive study of structures within the old walled city,’At the Core’ brings forth the expressive embellishments on Surat and Rander’s listed buildings of heritage value zooming in on about 2,417 from the 4,450 listed by the Surat Municipal Corporation.

Photographed by the staff and associates of UBC, the pictures provide an opportunity to soak in at ease intricate wood carvings within the timber and teak from Burma and Dang which were treated to withstand weather. While locals will instantly be able to recognize and relate to these, captions of locations would have been a helpful hint to tourists.

A handful of black and white aces which are in a class of their own have been clicked by Surat’s legendary photographer V. N. Mehta and have been generously shared by his great grandson Rajesh Mehta are fabulous and reminiscent of the city in the early and mid twentieth century and have successfully captured the essence of Surat’s spirit and spunk

The architecture within the inner city influenced by Arabesque style from the Mughal period to European and Colonial style combined with traditional style and skill of local workmanship displays genius craftsmanship within structures which now look dilapidated at first look. But then, lets not forget, this city has survived fires and floods, ravaging and plague and still stands tall.

From secret catacombs in basement of the Nagarsheth‘s haveli which were a safe passage to the river banks during the Maratha raids to stained glass window panes and Art Deco styling with skylights that brought in the sunlight with row houses that ran side by side from ornamental ‘otlas’ (front porches) upto service entry ‘vadas’ (backyards).The intermingling of ancient and modern fresco and design is visible in a wide and vast variety in segments of the city where people of privilege resided. The built heritage suggests the then veritable economic boom in a city which by no means has ever had a sluggish economy.

Enriched by ancient maps and paintings provided from the British Library Board to modern day satellite visuals,it documents the ‘Sheharpanah’ and ‘Alampanah’,Surat’s old inner and outer city walls along with its twelve entry gates.Since Rander was the Southern tip of Bharuch at the time this book chronicles in, it has been named separately .
Unlike Ahmedabad, Surat and Rander do not have any structures by Le Corbusier but, its orderly grid of sheris, majestic ovaras and jharokhas, artistic chabutras and cemeteries, lofty fort, intricately carved mosques and temples are proof enough of the finest architecture of its time in a city which was influenced by maritime trade and was cosmopolitan centuries ahead of the rest of India.

‘At the Core’ packages all that and more while simultaneously weaving the warp and weft of history, the wealth of which is as rich as the kinkhwab and brocade woven within its heritage structures.

SURAT’S CULTURAL HERITAGE………….
Tapi town is celebrating world heritage week with much enthusiasm and aplomb this year. With SMC’s new partnership policy of conserving whatever if left of our ancient monuments, hand in hand with the Surtis, the citizens are more aware of the same than ever before.

The core city areas of what was once the inner walled city that clustered around the castle and town square-Chowk, -Sonifaliya, Vadifaliya, Nanavat, Gopipura is where Surat’s elite lived in the ancient times. In grand row houses that were supported with huge magnificent logs of Burma teak shipped in at Rander,with Sun roofs in the centre that let the air, light and shine in, prominent Surti families belonging to diverse castes and subcastes of Hindus,Jains,Vaniyas and Brahmins lived here in collective numbers.

A lot of Surat’s culture was influenced from these areas. The rich trader Gopi, whose vision and philanthropy greatly contributed to Surat gaining importance as a port town after the Portuguese burnt Rander, our popular poet Narmad along with providing vast contributions to the Gujarati language was also a torch bearer of modern change, who not only preached but also practiced social reforms such as widow remarriage.Virji Vora, the merchant prince, one of the richest in the world in his times. He out bid the British while trading for commodities like pepper, opium, gold, silver, cotton etc.He dictated his terms to the Europeans, through his wide spread international network.

The biggest virtue within the walled city was that of good reputation. For Surtis, a well respected name was everything. A family’s general image of respectability was enough to gain financial mobility without actual cash transactions. A small sapling of Tulsi would be sent to the money lender with a note of request from the one in need and that would be enough to provide capital, by word of mouth. People were respected for their lineage and not by the liquidity of wealth that they possessed. Till this date, Surtis from well known families in these areas, who had seen better days, are looked upon as,’bau saara manas hata’.
The various other self contained communities around the inner core vastly contributed to the city’s emerging culture.
The close knit and very efficient Daudi Bohras who excelled at trading, the enterprising Parsi community who also brought Shakespeare theatre into town, the pious Edrus Saiyyeds known for their scholarship and abilities to perform miracles.
The royal Nawabs of Surat, Bela and the Kazis [judges] and Bakshis [holding rank], who owned positions and land,
The unabashed Ghachis and Golas, who pressed oil and pounded rice respectively and later, turned to manufacturing of Jari that made Surat world famous.
The Khatri and Kanbis who were the weavers and artisans, the Patels who were the zamindars set out wages for artisans along with community norms; all brought in their own distinct language, laws and food.

Since the city thrived on trade, had International exposure with an ability to absorb outsiders, Surat was seeped in diverse culture that has mingled over the years to turn into,’ Surti nature.’

With finance, friends, food and fun, Surti lalas learnt to live life king size.



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ABC OF SURTI SIGHTSEEING.........
Now that the entire world has discovered where Surat lies on the map, we Surtis are expecting a whole load of tourists to visit Tapi town and perceive the Sun god’s hide and seek act.
A usual dilemma many Surtis face and complaint about is that ‘there is no place in Surat to take visitors to.’ Well, fret no more, read on to plan a city tour –
A Airport- that awaits more flights, also for Athwagate that has an aeroplane which does not fly.

B Bazaars- Bhagal, Chowk, Chauta, Khand etc., which have different strokes for different folks.

C Chintamani Jain temple, an outstanding example of carved craftsmanship that has its miniature replica in the London museum.

D Dutch cemetery at one end and Dumas beach at the other.

E Eiffel tower, a mini wonder.

Flyovers that network all over town.

G Gopipura, Golwaad and Ghoddod road, each with individual history.

H Hazira home to industrial giants.

I Indoor stadium for its magnitude, Iskon mall for shopaholics.

JJamunanagar for Gardens and walkways.

K Katargam- hub of embroidery trade, Kargil Chowk for eventful evenings.

L Libraries- Andrews, Narmad, Gandhi Smruti,Nagindas .

M Mogul Sarai, the ancient tavern that now houses the offices of the SMC.

N Navapura- the oldest Mahalakshmi temple, Nanpura - oldest bakery and garden.

O Ovaras, the river bank ghats in town - navdi, patali, furja, paanch pandav and also ghanta ovaro behind Kasturba baug that has a huge bell, a measure for flood levels.

P Pandesara hums 24/7 with the textile buzz.

Q Surat’s Qilla that has become a ‘spilts villa’ where government offices and the forestry department function.

R Ring road and Rajmarg, two of our busiest business streets also for Rang upvan one of India’s largest amphitheatre and Rander for ancient mosques and Jain temples.

S Station, the connectivity that the city thrives on, Sardar Patel museum, Suvali beach-the gateway to India for Britishers, Sarthana zoo.

T Tapi, the Sun god’s daughter, one of the 3 rivers in India that runs from East to West.

U Universities VSNGU, SVR, SVNIT and Udhna a paradise for our labour clan.

VVarachha, where the world’s best stones turn to sparkling prisms.

W Weir cum causeway that runs over the Tapi at Singanpor and offers a ‘view to a spill’.

X Xavier’s, voted the best state board school for 2009.Home to cricket, basketball, tennis, karate, yoga activities in the evenings.

Y Yarn markets, the base from which we rule the man made textile market.

Z Zhampa bazaar, beyond the clock tower, the much sought after meat market for non vegetarians and fancy lace market for vegetarians.

To top that, each area has a special Surti dish to go with it where B is for Bhusu, G is for Ghari, K is for Khaja, L is for Locha khaman, P is for Ponk, R is for Rangooni paratha, U is for Undhiyu...

Welcome to Suryapur-city of the Sun.

TAPI TOWN TATTLE Land of the hiding Sun.

swally suvali surat

SUVALI SHORE’S SWALLY SECRETS……….
As the winter Sun beckons us Surtis to bask in it for a picnic, more often than not, suburbanites head towards Suvali beach that lies12 kms.NorthWest; Famous for its privacy and infamous for its treacherous tides, here many a young soul has lost its life. Deep down, a number of secrets lie buried below the sands. There is a lot more than meets the eye on this now barren land………………
In the pages of Indian and British history, ‘Swally’ as the Brits called it in their anglicized way, was the port where the English ships docked to enter and depart Surat .Since the Tapti was heavily silted at times and busy with the Portuguese ships ,this shore made easy entry point even in times of low tide. So deep are the waters off –shore this area that it was possible to embark even the heavy tonnage ships here. Little wonder then, that till this date a number of people enjoying on the edge of the beach are caught completely unawares when the tide comes in inundating the otherwise dry area and makes it absolutely impossible for anyone to swim back to the shore.
Few people know that Suvali is also the birthplace of the Indian Navy. Surprised, are you? Well here is the low down on it-In 1612, Captain Thomas Best encountered and defeated the Portuguese in the Battle of Swally.This marked the end of the Portugal commercial trade in India and the beginning of British ascent .To protect the port from further such encounters with pirates and intruders The English maintained a small fighting fleet from 5th September that year onwards .Named The Honourable East India Company’s Marine, the officers of which went on to play an important role in surveying and protecting the Arabian, Persian and Indian coastlines and later functioned from Bombay. Then onwards, any ship embarking this shore would have to pay tax to the Company to do so.
Below the now silted shores lie a field of bones in what used to be the graveyard of Swally.Historians believe that the eccentric English author ,polyglot and traveller Thomas Coryate ,whose travel book ‘Coryat’s Crudities’ was a rage in that age lies buried here. A comedian at heart, he was known for his humorous way of writing about his courageous travels around the Globe. Known as the ‘English Fakir’ in Surat, his tomb was constructed in Mohammedan style with a 20 feet high edifice over it.
One of India’s oldest lighthouses, the Hazira light, previously known as the Taptee/Suvali light also shares the Suvali shore further down. Humbly built with masts and fire logs initially, the tower built thereafter was completely destroyed by a fire from its petromax apparatus in 1836. Since then it has been upgraded often with lights from different parts of the world and now stands proudly with state of the art equipment and a metal halide lamp.
Thus, the silent Suvali shores share secrets in galore. So the next time you visit this now vacant shore, try and envisage what Suvali must have looked like in its busy days of yore.