EAT, PRAY, LOVE
Hollywood hottie Julia Roberts’s new flick may or may not hit bull’s eye at the box office in India, but the truth is, Surti’s have been living on this mantra, as a way of life; especially so, in these past few fortnights .
The’ Adhik maas ‘(extra month, not fat, silly) of the Hindu calendar year, insured many a festival to intermingle with the faith and festivity dates of another. And, Tapi towners have been religiously following the regime of ‘khai, pi ne jalsa karo ‘(eat, drink and make merry), even as they prayed all the way, doing so.
The Shravan month was observed with the obvious absence of foodies at all public eateries, contrary to popular belief, fasting in Surat is more like feasting. Surtis stuck to the rules of eating one meal a day which was more like an all inclusive fare from sherbet to shrikhands.Also, the Ghanchi, Rana and Khatri communities in town believe that Shravan is the month when “fartu nahi khaavanu pun tartu khavai” (don’t consume that which roams, but do consume that which swims) A special fish breed called ‘Modar’ known for its rich fillet of eggs is a pricey delicacy that’s part of Surti Shravan must haves.
Even as Shravan threatened to fizzle Iftar’s sizzle, the holy month of Ramadan for our Muslim brothers at Chowk, Zhampa bazaar and Rander saw no dearth of enthusiast eaters. The bylanes beside the beautiful Chunarwaad Masjid in the city of mosques, where little boys run around after the evening Azaan, saw many a retired rayeez moonlighting annual festive Rangooni fare; but, the real treats are within the walled city homes where morning Sehris begin with fish shaped bread and nalli niharis simmered on a slow boil. The Sopariwallas at Shalimar Baug savour an exotic Kheema salan receipe, prepared exclusively for brekkar on Eid morning.
Early mornings also saw the Jains venture out to the derasars for ‘pratikaman’ and ‘parna’, during ‘Pajyushan, the,’ the eight days of abstinence that culminate into repentance for the misdeeds of the previous year. As they went off fresh greens, home made meals concocted via age old traditions found steam.Dal dhoklis, banana and dried fenugreek bhajiyas ,sweet and sour pancakes, made up for mini meals along with thick warm curd. The exquisite Chintamani Parshvnath temple, a treasure trove of intricate carvings that was built during the regime of Emporer Aurangzeb during 1699 A.D.is by far one of the most precious pulchritudinous premise of architecture from that age. Well visited during these pious days, it is surrounded by kiosks that sell dry snacks such as gathiya, paasa, fulwadi, kharkhariyas that make for yummilicious tea time serves.
The Krishna Janmashtami and dahi handi events sailed smooth, with people power fuelled enthusiasm; albeit, some unfortunate souls were caught with a full hand, so to say.
Even as the D day for all of the above was shared with the advent of the God of fun things-Ganesha, there was a harmonious, happy mood flowing around town. As versatile as the good God Ganesha himself is, is the cuisine that Surtis will be seen relishing around pandals put up in his glory. Grub streets around town buzz up like never before, doling out paani puri to nylon dosas to vada paav and more. Kabootar Khana’s age old replica idol as well as the ‘all that glitter, its gold’Daliya Sheri special, are the ones that witness most devotees.
German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche had once said that, “I would believe only in a God that knows to dance”, lets hope our dearest Ganesha keeps him busy up there, after all, Surtis are busy playing “Munni badnaam ‘numbers for him down here and loving it.
Showing posts with label surat food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surat food. Show all posts
Monday, September 20, 2010
Monday, November 23, 2009
SURAT’S CULTURAL HERITAGE………….
Tapi town is celebrating world heritage week with much enthusiasm and aplomb this year. With SMC’s new partnership policy of conserving whatever if left of our ancient monuments, hand in hand with the Surtis, the citizens are more aware of the same than ever before.
The core city areas of what was once the inner walled city that clustered around the castle and town square-Chowk, -Sonifaliya, Vadifaliya, Nanavat, Gopipura is where Surat’s elite lived in the ancient times. In grand row houses that were supported with huge magnificent logs of Burma teak shipped in at Rander,with Sun roofs in the centre that let the air, light and shine in, prominent Surti families belonging to diverse castes and subcastes of Hindus,Jains,Vaniyas and Brahmins lived here in collective numbers.
A lot of Surat’s culture was influenced from these areas. The rich trader Gopi, whose vision and philanthropy greatly contributed to Surat gaining importance as a port town after the Portuguese burnt Rander, our popular poet Narmad along with providing vast contributions to the Gujarati language was also a torch bearer of modern change, who not only preached but also practiced social reforms such as widow remarriage.Virji Vora, the merchant prince, one of the richest in the world in his times. He out bid the British while trading for commodities like pepper, opium, gold, silver, cotton etc.He dictated his terms to the Europeans, through his wide spread international network.
The biggest virtue within the walled city was that of good reputation. For Surtis, a well respected name was everything. A family’s general image of respectability was enough to gain financial mobility without actual cash transactions. A small sapling of Tulsi would be sent to the money lender with a note of request from the one in need and that would be enough to provide capital, by word of mouth. People were respected for their lineage and not by the liquidity of wealth that they possessed. Till this date, Surtis from well known families in these areas, who had seen better days, are looked upon as,’bau saara manas hata’.
The various other self contained communities around the inner core vastly contributed to the city’s emerging culture.
The close knit and very efficient Daudi Bohras who excelled at trading, the enterprising Parsi community who also brought Shakespeare theatre into town, the pious Edrus Saiyyeds known for their scholarship and abilities to perform miracles.
The royal Nawabs of Surat, Bela and the Kazis [judges] and Bakshis [holding rank], who owned positions and land,
The unabashed Ghachis and Golas, who pressed oil and pounded rice respectively and later, turned to manufacturing of Jari that made Surat world famous.
The Khatri and Kanbis who were the weavers and artisans, the Patels who were the zamindars set out wages for artisans along with community norms; all brought in their own distinct language, laws and food.
Since the city thrived on trade, had International exposure with an ability to absorb outsiders, Surat was seeped in diverse culture that has mingled over the years to turn into,’ Surti nature.’
With finance, friends, food and fun, Surti lalas learnt to live life king size.
.
Tapi town is celebrating world heritage week with much enthusiasm and aplomb this year. With SMC’s new partnership policy of conserving whatever if left of our ancient monuments, hand in hand with the Surtis, the citizens are more aware of the same than ever before.
The core city areas of what was once the inner walled city that clustered around the castle and town square-Chowk, -Sonifaliya, Vadifaliya, Nanavat, Gopipura is where Surat’s elite lived in the ancient times. In grand row houses that were supported with huge magnificent logs of Burma teak shipped in at Rander,with Sun roofs in the centre that let the air, light and shine in, prominent Surti families belonging to diverse castes and subcastes of Hindus,Jains,Vaniyas and Brahmins lived here in collective numbers.
A lot of Surat’s culture was influenced from these areas. The rich trader Gopi, whose vision and philanthropy greatly contributed to Surat gaining importance as a port town after the Portuguese burnt Rander, our popular poet Narmad along with providing vast contributions to the Gujarati language was also a torch bearer of modern change, who not only preached but also practiced social reforms such as widow remarriage.Virji Vora, the merchant prince, one of the richest in the world in his times. He out bid the British while trading for commodities like pepper, opium, gold, silver, cotton etc.He dictated his terms to the Europeans, through his wide spread international network.
The biggest virtue within the walled city was that of good reputation. For Surtis, a well respected name was everything. A family’s general image of respectability was enough to gain financial mobility without actual cash transactions. A small sapling of Tulsi would be sent to the money lender with a note of request from the one in need and that would be enough to provide capital, by word of mouth. People were respected for their lineage and not by the liquidity of wealth that they possessed. Till this date, Surtis from well known families in these areas, who had seen better days, are looked upon as,’bau saara manas hata’.
The various other self contained communities around the inner core vastly contributed to the city’s emerging culture.
The close knit and very efficient Daudi Bohras who excelled at trading, the enterprising Parsi community who also brought Shakespeare theatre into town, the pious Edrus Saiyyeds known for their scholarship and abilities to perform miracles.
The royal Nawabs of Surat, Bela and the Kazis [judges] and Bakshis [holding rank], who owned positions and land,
The unabashed Ghachis and Golas, who pressed oil and pounded rice respectively and later, turned to manufacturing of Jari that made Surat world famous.
The Khatri and Kanbis who were the weavers and artisans, the Patels who were the zamindars set out wages for artisans along with community norms; all brought in their own distinct language, laws and food.
Since the city thrived on trade, had International exposure with an ability to absorb outsiders, Surat was seeped in diverse culture that has mingled over the years to turn into,’ Surti nature.’
With finance, friends, food and fun, Surti lalas learnt to live life king size.
.
Friday, September 25, 2009
MIDNIGHT MEALS FOR RAAS REVELLERS...................
With loudspeakers and lahriwalas now allowed to operate till Cinderella timing, Surat offers various options for what Gujaratis call,’nishachars’. There is something to suit every palate preference-
Dhokla dreams-For Surtis who love these semi sour spongy delights, an array of flavours and natural colours with fresh fenugreek, turmeric, lentils, corn, are dished out, steaming hot, at Raja food court on Ghodod road. Gritty textured Handvo with grated gourd, green tuver and freshly crushed spicy green chutney, along with other tongue tickling tasty treats like Bhel and Pani Puri, sev papdi and chaat for the adventurous minded. For more filling food, you may want to visit mini counters serving Rajwadi khichdi-kadhi, rotla and stuffed aubergines with wet garlic chutney. This modern day Khau gali also doles out interesting desserts like ice dish-a fancier version of the good old gola, topped with rabdi and dry fruit as well as creamy sancha ice cream delights.
Murgh mashallah-Non vegetarians can make a beeline for the by lane of Sagar restaurant at Chowk, other than Sagar’s popular Biryani boti hot pots, a tiny kiosk at a stone’s throw from there ,known as Raja chicken centre, offers freshly roasted , marinated birds. Charcoal grilled only to order, their meat retains its melt in the mouth quality unlike other chewy tangdis.The butter mari flavoured one is a lip smacking must have .Smoky savouries, tender tikkas can be relished as you await your order to be delivered. You could pick up a crisp naan from Sagar to make a kathi roll with kebabs from here. If appetite allows, one could also opt for the dum cooked, lightly spiced but rich in gluten flavour Raan.
Coffee ‘n’ crunchies-Now, with easy access off the lobby at The Gateway, the T3 lounge defies subtle 5 star boredom with its multi coloured ambience and offerings. Blueberry cheesecakes, scrumptious grilled feta cheese sandwiches, exotic multigrain Medeterrian fare and delicately flavoured teas as well as robust, single origin coffee, not to mention brownie cafe delights have been priced light, on round the clock menu for exhausted feet to come refresh and relax in cool comfort.
Ande ka funda-If eggs are what are on your mind, there can be no other place than Khau gali to whet your wanting. This age old favourite Surti street, where man and mangy dog alike eat away to heart’s content and beyond, concocts ‘Eggsquisite’ egg recepies prepared on stove heated tavaas. Made to order in butter or oil, it takes the good old baida to a different level altogether .Twin spatulas expertly handle delicious delicacies topped with signature Surti lilu lasan combined with tingly green chilli paste .From the regular kheema to rare boil fry, Surti slang special ‘ghotalo’ to exotic cheesy Austrian fry,all eggcellent!
Hindi Chinee bhai bhai-The new Food Express at Surat railway station operates 24/7 and has endless options for vegetarian foodies in search ‘Chindian’noodles, Manchurian and fried rice as well as masaledar Indian cuisine -Pav bhaji, Chole bhature and Moti dum biryani. Machine made ice-cream to beat the heat also available.
With loudspeakers and lahriwalas now allowed to operate till Cinderella timing, Surat offers various options for what Gujaratis call,’nishachars’. There is something to suit every palate preference-
Dhokla dreams-For Surtis who love these semi sour spongy delights, an array of flavours and natural colours with fresh fenugreek, turmeric, lentils, corn, are dished out, steaming hot, at Raja food court on Ghodod road. Gritty textured Handvo with grated gourd, green tuver and freshly crushed spicy green chutney, along with other tongue tickling tasty treats like Bhel and Pani Puri, sev papdi and chaat for the adventurous minded. For more filling food, you may want to visit mini counters serving Rajwadi khichdi-kadhi, rotla and stuffed aubergines with wet garlic chutney. This modern day Khau gali also doles out interesting desserts like ice dish-a fancier version of the good old gola, topped with rabdi and dry fruit as well as creamy sancha ice cream delights.
Murgh mashallah-Non vegetarians can make a beeline for the by lane of Sagar restaurant at Chowk, other than Sagar’s popular Biryani boti hot pots, a tiny kiosk at a stone’s throw from there ,known as Raja chicken centre, offers freshly roasted , marinated birds. Charcoal grilled only to order, their meat retains its melt in the mouth quality unlike other chewy tangdis.The butter mari flavoured one is a lip smacking must have .Smoky savouries, tender tikkas can be relished as you await your order to be delivered. You could pick up a crisp naan from Sagar to make a kathi roll with kebabs from here. If appetite allows, one could also opt for the dum cooked, lightly spiced but rich in gluten flavour Raan.
Coffee ‘n’ crunchies-Now, with easy access off the lobby at The Gateway, the T3 lounge defies subtle 5 star boredom with its multi coloured ambience and offerings. Blueberry cheesecakes, scrumptious grilled feta cheese sandwiches, exotic multigrain Medeterrian fare and delicately flavoured teas as well as robust, single origin coffee, not to mention brownie cafe delights have been priced light, on round the clock menu for exhausted feet to come refresh and relax in cool comfort.
Ande ka funda-If eggs are what are on your mind, there can be no other place than Khau gali to whet your wanting. This age old favourite Surti street, where man and mangy dog alike eat away to heart’s content and beyond, concocts ‘Eggsquisite’ egg recepies prepared on stove heated tavaas. Made to order in butter or oil, it takes the good old baida to a different level altogether .Twin spatulas expertly handle delicious delicacies topped with signature Surti lilu lasan combined with tingly green chilli paste .From the regular kheema to rare boil fry, Surti slang special ‘ghotalo’ to exotic cheesy Austrian fry,all eggcellent!
Hindi Chinee bhai bhai-The new Food Express at Surat railway station operates 24/7 and has endless options for vegetarian foodies in search ‘Chindian’noodles, Manchurian and fried rice as well as masaledar Indian cuisine -Pav bhaji, Chole bhature and Moti dum biryani. Machine made ice-cream to beat the heat also available.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
MAD MAN’S TRIANGLES-SURTI STUFFINGS.............
Lest the title scares you, bringing to mind some eerie place like the Bermuda triangle, let me assure you, in Surat, weird names mostly stand for its people or food.
Little did Akshay Kumar know, when he gallantly sang out ‘Jab tak rahega samose mein aalu, tera rahunga o meri Shalu’, that Surti samosas have anything but potatoes in them.
Dough wrapped fried dumplings are very popular in Tapi town. Our Ghanchi and Khatri brothers and sisters excel in conjuring up innovative delights to make the same a pleasure on the palate.
Discover tastes that will tickle your taste buds..........
‘Fataka’ is what gram dal samosas are better known as in Surat. Sautéed with mint, ginger-chilli paste and onions this Surti speciality is available in three different degrees of spice levels.One is a mild, sober taste, the other with a sweet base of raisins while the third is all out on slurplicous spice . Chana dal samosas are sell outs at Nanavat-Gandabhai’s samosas who is the ace of the base in this field since ages; Jain samosas are also a variety popularly sold here.A smaller, milder version of the same are available outside the Syndicate bank, Salabatpura. On Kotsafil Road, above Jyoti plywood, a home run business caters to regulars who buy raw or semi fried versions of these triangular treats.
Bhamardiwala at Khangar Sheri, Salabatpura has the ‘Mastery’, as Surtis put it, in preparing succelent Suran [yam] samosas. Amongst the few who do so in town, it’s a task rarely practised. Yam is first grated, washed and then dried, later sautéed with dry, hot spices and green chilli to make a filling that resembles and tastes like mutton kheema. By the way, mutton samosas are also a speciality prepared to order and unlike the heavy, fried variety available at Chowk, in the by lane that leads to Sonifalia and Sardar museum,Bhamardiwala’s sell a ready to fry version that can be relished hot at home.
At Bibiniwadi, Syedpura, green pea samosas -tempered with curry leaves, cashews, cottage cheese and desiccated coconut are an exotic tropical flavoured filling. Made exclusively by the oil pressers, the Ghanchi community, it is a spicy -sweet delight amidst flaky plain flour pastry.
Innovative stuffings like soybean, sautéed Chinese vegetables and cottage cheese chewies have enthusiastic takers at Anand Mahal Road, near Prime Arcade. The samosa Pattis for these are made from whole-wheat flour.
Suburban Surtis meanwhile, relish the scrumptious taste of Rachna‘s tasty treats at Ghoddod road. The most expensive in their league , the cheese samosas are an exclusive variety from a secret recipe that was handed down from a home in Singapore, by a Surti N.R.I. Also available here are Mexican samosas packed with bean, corn and spring onions.
Surti samosas vary in crispiness according to their shells- from chewy, crispy to gritty.
Pyramid like savouries that now have a commercial existence, originally prepared by experts, within kitchens of Surti homes.
Tapi town tattle-Swine Flu-Kamina fever.
Lest the title scares you, bringing to mind some eerie place like the Bermuda triangle, let me assure you, in Surat, weird names mostly stand for its people or food.
Little did Akshay Kumar know, when he gallantly sang out ‘Jab tak rahega samose mein aalu, tera rahunga o meri Shalu’, that Surti samosas have anything but potatoes in them.
Dough wrapped fried dumplings are very popular in Tapi town. Our Ghanchi and Khatri brothers and sisters excel in conjuring up innovative delights to make the same a pleasure on the palate.
Discover tastes that will tickle your taste buds..........
‘Fataka’ is what gram dal samosas are better known as in Surat. Sautéed with mint, ginger-chilli paste and onions this Surti speciality is available in three different degrees of spice levels.One is a mild, sober taste, the other with a sweet base of raisins while the third is all out on slurplicous spice . Chana dal samosas are sell outs at Nanavat-Gandabhai’s samosas who is the ace of the base in this field since ages; Jain samosas are also a variety popularly sold here.A smaller, milder version of the same are available outside the Syndicate bank, Salabatpura. On Kotsafil Road, above Jyoti plywood, a home run business caters to regulars who buy raw or semi fried versions of these triangular treats.
Bhamardiwala at Khangar Sheri, Salabatpura has the ‘Mastery’, as Surtis put it, in preparing succelent Suran [yam] samosas. Amongst the few who do so in town, it’s a task rarely practised. Yam is first grated, washed and then dried, later sautéed with dry, hot spices and green chilli to make a filling that resembles and tastes like mutton kheema. By the way, mutton samosas are also a speciality prepared to order and unlike the heavy, fried variety available at Chowk, in the by lane that leads to Sonifalia and Sardar museum,Bhamardiwala’s sell a ready to fry version that can be relished hot at home.
At Bibiniwadi, Syedpura, green pea samosas -tempered with curry leaves, cashews, cottage cheese and desiccated coconut are an exotic tropical flavoured filling. Made exclusively by the oil pressers, the Ghanchi community, it is a spicy -sweet delight amidst flaky plain flour pastry.
Innovative stuffings like soybean, sautéed Chinese vegetables and cottage cheese chewies have enthusiastic takers at Anand Mahal Road, near Prime Arcade. The samosa Pattis for these are made from whole-wheat flour.
Suburban Surtis meanwhile, relish the scrumptious taste of Rachna‘s tasty treats at Ghoddod road. The most expensive in their league , the cheese samosas are an exclusive variety from a secret recipe that was handed down from a home in Singapore, by a Surti N.R.I. Also available here are Mexican samosas packed with bean, corn and spring onions.
Surti samosas vary in crispiness according to their shells- from chewy, crispy to gritty.
Pyramid like savouries that now have a commercial existence, originally prepared by experts, within kitchens of Surti homes.
Tapi town tattle-Swine Flu-Kamina fever.
Monday, March 2, 2009
SINGLE MALTS VS SURTI BATLIS...........
With state of the art golf grounds planned to sprout up around Tapi town, in Hazira and Navsari, the Lala lobby is set to take tee for two lessons so that they may score a birdie and put one –in –the hole, before their business rivals do.Internationally, Scotland is known as the ‘Home of Golf’ but of course, it is more popular for its prime product, Scotch whiskey, especially single malts.
’Whiskey’ comes from the Latin root word aqua vitae meaning ‘water of life’.Surat’s water of life is definitely the Tapi, our purans state’ Tapi nu jaman ne Kashi nu maran’,its waters are known for lending taste to all Surti food and drink. The single malts of Scotland are bifurcated by their regions, speyside- that makes the smoothest, most outstanding malts, followed by highlands, lowlands and Islay. Surat has no such distinction; all its areas are popular for making their special Surti treats, be it Ved road or Harinagar.
Scotland has the largest variety of Scotch in the world while Surat along with food, is also home to the widest choice in bubbly drinks. [Cola not champagne, silly] Not only do we have India’s oldest, fizzy products to please Surti palates but also the most innovative ones like ‘falsa’,’pineax’,’kafura’. ’Batlis’ as Surtis call it, are bottles of soft drinks, available through town in different avtaars.
It is difficult to get your hands on authentic single malt and in our case of a dry state, legally impossible as well. Surti ‘batlis’ however, are available nineteen to the dozen from Adajan to Bhagal, Varaccha to Dumas, and Piplod to Ring road. Crates of chilled fizz are easily found in all nooks and corners of the city. Also known as’Thanda peena’,’colddrinks’’mickcher’,’sodalemon’etc., locally, they have found their way into paan shops and road side kiosks as well. Best served chilled, they rest on raw ice from Nanpura’s Machiwaad ice factories.
The biggest complication with single malts is the way their names are pronounced, Glenfiddich, Glenlivet,Glenmorangie,Lagavulin,Talsiker etc.Surti batlis have no fuss fizz names, in Kashmira, citrola,ginlim,try,santrola,jirola,jira mari,..........unending names and flavours you may call out at your will, whim and fancy. Although we do not have high or low lands after which malts are named, traffic islands in Tapi town are named after our batlis like Sosyo circle, Parle Point circle etc.
While malts, an acquired taste, ask for Sushi,Oyesters,dark Swiss chocolate, Cuban cigars, fancy ambience, glasses that are the correct size, a good book to browse and need to be ‘nosed ‘to enjoy their smoky flavours, Surti colas can be had anytime ,anywhere, with any cuisine, preferably directly from the bottle. We have appetizers, and digestive drinks as well as some that go superbly well to wash down Gujarati gourmet meals.
The process of manufacturing single malt takes years to get it to develop its peaty taste, in the full bodied barrel that the barley is stored in. Surti batlis are instantly made at Bhatar with handmade soda bottle makers, where you can have a ‘kanchey wali’ marble sealed, kala khatta ,kesri or jaljira batli,multi flavours also made by Hil-Mil ,Prince ,He-man ,Ganesh and Simla in old city areas.
An enterprising, young, Surti entrepreneur, now in London, is going to provide authentic single malts online, with a door step delivery anywhere in India. Surtis will take satisfaction in the fact that Seep cold drinks and juice centre; will continue to serve their prime batli product-‘Pepiyo piyo, mast jeevo.’
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What did the downslide of share markets and real estate make Surti Lalas do? Get back to business, Spin more yarn!
With state of the art golf grounds planned to sprout up around Tapi town, in Hazira and Navsari, the Lala lobby is set to take tee for two lessons so that they may score a birdie and put one –in –the hole, before their business rivals do.Internationally, Scotland is known as the ‘Home of Golf’ but of course, it is more popular for its prime product, Scotch whiskey, especially single malts.
’Whiskey’ comes from the Latin root word aqua vitae meaning ‘water of life’.Surat’s water of life is definitely the Tapi, our purans state’ Tapi nu jaman ne Kashi nu maran’,its waters are known for lending taste to all Surti food and drink. The single malts of Scotland are bifurcated by their regions, speyside- that makes the smoothest, most outstanding malts, followed by highlands, lowlands and Islay. Surat has no such distinction; all its areas are popular for making their special Surti treats, be it Ved road or Harinagar.
Scotland has the largest variety of Scotch in the world while Surat along with food, is also home to the widest choice in bubbly drinks. [Cola not champagne, silly] Not only do we have India’s oldest, fizzy products to please Surti palates but also the most innovative ones like ‘falsa’,’pineax’,’kafura’. ’Batlis’ as Surtis call it, are bottles of soft drinks, available through town in different avtaars.
It is difficult to get your hands on authentic single malt and in our case of a dry state, legally impossible as well. Surti ‘batlis’ however, are available nineteen to the dozen from Adajan to Bhagal, Varaccha to Dumas, and Piplod to Ring road. Crates of chilled fizz are easily found in all nooks and corners of the city. Also known as’Thanda peena’,’colddrinks’’mickcher’,’sodalemon’etc., locally, they have found their way into paan shops and road side kiosks as well. Best served chilled, they rest on raw ice from Nanpura’s Machiwaad ice factories.
The biggest complication with single malts is the way their names are pronounced, Glenfiddich, Glenlivet,Glenmorangie,Lagavulin,Talsiker etc.Surti batlis have no fuss fizz names, in Kashmira, citrola,ginlim,try,santrola,jirola,jira mari,..........unending names and flavours you may call out at your will, whim and fancy. Although we do not have high or low lands after which malts are named, traffic islands in Tapi town are named after our batlis like Sosyo circle, Parle Point circle etc.
While malts, an acquired taste, ask for Sushi,Oyesters,dark Swiss chocolate, Cuban cigars, fancy ambience, glasses that are the correct size, a good book to browse and need to be ‘nosed ‘to enjoy their smoky flavours, Surti colas can be had anytime ,anywhere, with any cuisine, preferably directly from the bottle. We have appetizers, and digestive drinks as well as some that go superbly well to wash down Gujarati gourmet meals.
The process of manufacturing single malt takes years to get it to develop its peaty taste, in the full bodied barrel that the barley is stored in. Surti batlis are instantly made at Bhatar with handmade soda bottle makers, where you can have a ‘kanchey wali’ marble sealed, kala khatta ,kesri or jaljira batli,multi flavours also made by Hil-Mil ,Prince ,He-man ,Ganesh and Simla in old city areas.
An enterprising, young, Surti entrepreneur, now in London, is going to provide authentic single malts online, with a door step delivery anywhere in India. Surtis will take satisfaction in the fact that Seep cold drinks and juice centre; will continue to serve their prime batli product-‘Pepiyo piyo, mast jeevo.’
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-What did the downslide of share markets and real estate make Surti Lalas do? Get back to business, Spin more yarn!
Monday, September 22, 2008
MOONLIGHTING;RANDER ‘S RANGOONI NIGHTS.
In spite of always having been one; people often look at me doubtfully and say,’aapko dekh kar toh nahi lagta ke aap vegetarian hai?’Having grown up with two elder, voracious non vegetarian siblings, both of them particularly lean , I never take the above statement as an abasement.I maintain they say so due to my ‘healthy ‘hair and skin.My protective mom says it must be due to my farmer blood broad shoulders, my health freak dad differs, blaming it on my erratic lifestyle.
So when the boss, my editor from Ahmedabad sent me the message to,’ do a piece on Rander scene during iftari.Hog as well.’ the first thing I did was pick up the phone and tell parents that my stand on the ‘protein power looks’ issue stood vindicated. Since, all that boss knows me by, is my photo herewith.
Next, I resorted to pure gumption to gather a gang for the mission. It was complicated. There are various kinds of foodies in Surat-The pure veg, the Jain veg who do not eat onions or garlic, the vegans who abstain from lactose, the chickenetarians [no goat], the weekly non veg [none on Tuesday/Thursday], the meat and chicken but no beef and pork and finally the ‘pure’ non vegetarians. Also the eggetarians, to which I belonged.
My gang had all of the above and an anorexic friend who didn’t belong to any of the above. The Jains joined in, not to lose their religion but to visit Manibhadra; the yaksha God, whose temple in Rander is reminiscent of the ancient 200A.D.Shanprat rule during which numerous Jain derasars were built in Rander. Thousands of people throng this place especially on Thursday; belief is all your wishes are granted if you pray here.
Centuries ago, residents of this southern end of Bharuch would travel to the foreign shores of Arabia, Sudan, Bangkok, Burma from the port of Rander, in search of a livelihood. A lot of Burma teak and fine, bright coloured porcelain was shipped in from Yangon which travelled to the royalty in India. Till date antiques are sourced from here. Old homes in Rander are made of Burma teak. The Rander House in Rangoon at present houses The Internal Revenue Department. Post the third world war, trade started deteriorating and by the time Burma [Myanmar] was Independent in 1950, hundreds of Muslim Diaspora, forced to give up business and property, had returned back to Rander-now the city of mosques.
The Yangon connection inspired flavours of Burmese cuisine. The food at Rander is therefore different from the other ghettos at Chowk and Zhampa bazaar; where chicken tangdi and tikkas, mutton raan and chaps for iftari are available along with machhi pav, mutton salan for the morning Sehri.
Rander has receipes like the famous Rangooni paratha-succulent meat pieces enveloped in thin layer of maida, egg and deep fried as a rectangular delicacy, a version of Chicken khowsuey [locals call it khausa] prepared with steaming spaghetti, thin, chicken curry with a coconut milk base and garnished with dry puri pieces instead of Sali wafers, with a sprinkling of spring onion greens. Also, much relished are the machhi masala chicken and aloo puri-thin small maida puris served with bits of chatpata aloo topped with onions, lime and chilli. Silver chicken, marinated in green chilli garlic paste, roasted within foil. Of course, the usual boti kebabs, tandoori chicken, chicken 65 and eggs to order are also available. Dessert offerings are kullad phirni and various flavours of sancha ice cream and kulfis of which Guava and Durian fruit ones are rare and exclusive to Rander. Many homes here are converted to ‘family room’ for dining.
Rander mela began in 1938 at the Chunarwad Masjid alley, next to a beautiful imaret maderesa; a place to provide hungry Muslims food post the evening azaan to break their Ramzan fast. Till date, little kiosks of paraphernalia for midnight shoppers offer prayer beads, embroidered burqas, talcum-toiletries, replica sneakers, cheap Chinese toys and concentrated ittars.The street is quite civil and serene through the night, with a heavy aroma in air and sizzling sounds of tava cooking. Today, the retired ‘raizees’ of Rangoon rule the streets once a year, moonlighting with receipes carried down the ages. Many just work during the month of Ramzan.This is a city within the city in an age of bygone era and when the new moon is cited at the month end, it will be Idd,its New year.
Everyone returned home happy. Then, my father called to ask if the title of my column meant khoob –soorat [lots of face].
In spite of always having been one; people often look at me doubtfully and say,’aapko dekh kar toh nahi lagta ke aap vegetarian hai?’Having grown up with two elder, voracious non vegetarian siblings, both of them particularly lean , I never take the above statement as an abasement.I maintain they say so due to my ‘healthy ‘hair and skin.My protective mom says it must be due to my farmer blood broad shoulders, my health freak dad differs, blaming it on my erratic lifestyle.
So when the boss, my editor from Ahmedabad sent me the message to,’ do a piece on Rander scene during iftari.Hog as well.’ the first thing I did was pick up the phone and tell parents that my stand on the ‘protein power looks’ issue stood vindicated. Since, all that boss knows me by, is my photo herewith.
Next, I resorted to pure gumption to gather a gang for the mission. It was complicated. There are various kinds of foodies in Surat-The pure veg, the Jain veg who do not eat onions or garlic, the vegans who abstain from lactose, the chickenetarians [no goat], the weekly non veg [none on Tuesday/Thursday], the meat and chicken but no beef and pork and finally the ‘pure’ non vegetarians. Also the eggetarians, to which I belonged.
My gang had all of the above and an anorexic friend who didn’t belong to any of the above. The Jains joined in, not to lose their religion but to visit Manibhadra; the yaksha God, whose temple in Rander is reminiscent of the ancient 200A.D.Shanprat rule during which numerous Jain derasars were built in Rander. Thousands of people throng this place especially on Thursday; belief is all your wishes are granted if you pray here.
Centuries ago, residents of this southern end of Bharuch would travel to the foreign shores of Arabia, Sudan, Bangkok, Burma from the port of Rander, in search of a livelihood. A lot of Burma teak and fine, bright coloured porcelain was shipped in from Yangon which travelled to the royalty in India. Till date antiques are sourced from here. Old homes in Rander are made of Burma teak. The Rander House in Rangoon at present houses The Internal Revenue Department. Post the third world war, trade started deteriorating and by the time Burma [Myanmar] was Independent in 1950, hundreds of Muslim Diaspora, forced to give up business and property, had returned back to Rander-now the city of mosques.
The Yangon connection inspired flavours of Burmese cuisine. The food at Rander is therefore different from the other ghettos at Chowk and Zhampa bazaar; where chicken tangdi and tikkas, mutton raan and chaps for iftari are available along with machhi pav, mutton salan for the morning Sehri.
Rander has receipes like the famous Rangooni paratha-succulent meat pieces enveloped in thin layer of maida, egg and deep fried as a rectangular delicacy, a version of Chicken khowsuey [locals call it khausa] prepared with steaming spaghetti, thin, chicken curry with a coconut milk base and garnished with dry puri pieces instead of Sali wafers, with a sprinkling of spring onion greens. Also, much relished are the machhi masala chicken and aloo puri-thin small maida puris served with bits of chatpata aloo topped with onions, lime and chilli. Silver chicken, marinated in green chilli garlic paste, roasted within foil. Of course, the usual boti kebabs, tandoori chicken, chicken 65 and eggs to order are also available. Dessert offerings are kullad phirni and various flavours of sancha ice cream and kulfis of which Guava and Durian fruit ones are rare and exclusive to Rander. Many homes here are converted to ‘family room’ for dining.
Rander mela began in 1938 at the Chunarwad Masjid alley, next to a beautiful imaret maderesa; a place to provide hungry Muslims food post the evening azaan to break their Ramzan fast. Till date, little kiosks of paraphernalia for midnight shoppers offer prayer beads, embroidered burqas, talcum-toiletries, replica sneakers, cheap Chinese toys and concentrated ittars.The street is quite civil and serene through the night, with a heavy aroma in air and sizzling sounds of tava cooking. Today, the retired ‘raizees’ of Rangoon rule the streets once a year, moonlighting with receipes carried down the ages. Many just work during the month of Ramzan.This is a city within the city in an age of bygone era and when the new moon is cited at the month end, it will be Idd,its New year.
Everyone returned home happy. Then, my father called to ask if the title of my column meant khoob –soorat [lots of face].
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