New Answers To Old Questions Anyone?

No sooner has the brightest moonlit night of the year passed; with Surtis gorging out on the Sharad Poonam and Chandipadva night that the agenda for the next set of festivities during the forthcoming fortnight has been set.

Social Surtis who qualify as official tattlers around town are armed with their usual questionnaire to attack the unassuming common man /woman /child. It is not as if these questions have been inspired by the new season of” Kaun Banega Crorepati’, rather it revolves around the theme of ‘Kyaa kareyga crorepati”?

Like, no matter how high up in the social ladder you are, you will be asked,”Diwali ni safaai thay gayee?”(Have you cleaned up for Diwali?) If you are left frazzled wondering what is it about this routine of” cleanliness is next to Godliness ‘during Diwali, well, its just an age old custom practiced by our ancestors to clear away the previous year’s waste, gathered with squirrel like skill. Unused and used goods now rendered useless will be presented with philanthropic pride to staff members who eagerly help out in this tedious routine. Often things like, clothes, utensils, cosmetics, toys etc which have seen better days, come tumbling out of lofts and closets. While some find better use in a lesser home, other unfortunate stuff will be re-bundled and loaded back up there for next year’s spring cleaning season. Once you have managed to answer that your home is already clean and does not need to be de-cluttered, you will be given a dirty look with an unconvincing nod saying ,’amaarey tyaa toh karvij padey .”(We have to do it.)

Up next you will be attacked by, “Diwali maa shu karo cho?” No really, now tell me, ever since lord Rama returned to Ayodhya,Indians have been celebrating it by –lighting lamps,feasting,wearing new clothes and, after the advent of crackers ,bursting the same. The good part about this question is that you need not answer it; the person who has asked it will then immediately let you know about his/her plan on spending the festival. Be ready to be inundated with an endless shopping list which will feature nothing other than the routine, a grand announcement of how much moolah is going to be burnt up in from of ‘aatashbaaji’by children who know no better (men included), how the atrocious present market rates of all precious metals is not going to hinder the lala’s homemaker from burning a hole in his pocket –Dhanteras being the rescue excuse, how the hardworking lala is going to go in for a reincarnation in the wardrobe to replace crisp linen shirts with ,well ,more crisp linen shirts.

Which brings us to the last and the most entertaining question of them all,”Diwali maan kyaa jao cho.” (Where are you off to, this Diwali?) .No matter what destination you say, you will be told ‘oh there! We went there 4-6-9 years ago. You will be then given an in-depth info about your destination with more zest than the travel agent. Even if the location was visited a decade ago, you will be told about what to do and where to eat and what to shop for, as if the world has come to a standstill since then and that city or country has been frozen in time. God forbid if you answer,” we are not traveling this year’, thou shall then have to lend ear to listen to extensive travel plans of the person who questioned you. Including what food they are going to carry along on the journey. Which is not a bad deal; actually, you could trot the globe with a Surti’s sense of imagination.

SURAT’S CULTURAL HERITAGE………….
Tapi town is celebrating world heritage week with much enthusiasm and aplomb this year. With SMC’s new partnership policy of conserving whatever if left of our ancient monuments, hand in hand with the Surtis, the citizens are more aware of the same than ever before.

The core city areas of what was once the inner walled city that clustered around the castle and town square-Chowk, -Sonifaliya, Vadifaliya, Nanavat, Gopipura is where Surat’s elite lived in the ancient times. In grand row houses that were supported with huge magnificent logs of Burma teak shipped in at Rander,with Sun roofs in the centre that let the air, light and shine in, prominent Surti families belonging to diverse castes and subcastes of Hindus,Jains,Vaniyas and Brahmins lived here in collective numbers.

A lot of Surat’s culture was influenced from these areas. The rich trader Gopi, whose vision and philanthropy greatly contributed to Surat gaining importance as a port town after the Portuguese burnt Rander, our popular poet Narmad along with providing vast contributions to the Gujarati language was also a torch bearer of modern change, who not only preached but also practiced social reforms such as widow remarriage.Virji Vora, the merchant prince, one of the richest in the world in his times. He out bid the British while trading for commodities like pepper, opium, gold, silver, cotton etc.He dictated his terms to the Europeans, through his wide spread international network.

The biggest virtue within the walled city was that of good reputation. For Surtis, a well respected name was everything. A family’s general image of respectability was enough to gain financial mobility without actual cash transactions. A small sapling of Tulsi would be sent to the money lender with a note of request from the one in need and that would be enough to provide capital, by word of mouth. People were respected for their lineage and not by the liquidity of wealth that they possessed. Till this date, Surtis from well known families in these areas, who had seen better days, are looked upon as,’bau saara manas hata’.
The various other self contained communities around the inner core vastly contributed to the city’s emerging culture.
The close knit and very efficient Daudi Bohras who excelled at trading, the enterprising Parsi community who also brought Shakespeare theatre into town, the pious Edrus Saiyyeds known for their scholarship and abilities to perform miracles.
The royal Nawabs of Surat, Bela and the Kazis [judges] and Bakshis [holding rank], who owned positions and land,
The unabashed Ghachis and Golas, who pressed oil and pounded rice respectively and later, turned to manufacturing of Jari that made Surat world famous.
The Khatri and Kanbis who were the weavers and artisans, the Patels who were the zamindars set out wages for artisans along with community norms; all brought in their own distinct language, laws and food.

Since the city thrived on trade, had International exposure with an ability to absorb outsiders, Surat was seeped in diverse culture that has mingled over the years to turn into,’ Surti nature.’

With finance, friends, food and fun, Surti lalas learnt to live life king size.



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