LIFE OF A SURTI LALA……………..
So, you thought that life of a lala was all about living life kingsize, eh?
Last evening, I happened to meet rich and famous Surti sheth Dhanvantbhai Shethia.
‘Kem cho, Dhanvantdada?’
‘Prubhu ni krupa chey dikra,’he sighed,’baki badhu locha lapsi chey’.
‘Why so sir? I asked, worriedly.’
‘Arrey, things are not as they used to be in laladom.Times having changed; it is no fun being a lala anymore’.
Then, looking at my bewildered expression, he explained

Life of a lala then and now…….
.
Saheb, biwi aur ghulam-Once upon a time this simply meant a rich man with a wife and a loyal slave. Life was fun as lalas would be pampered by both, his patni and his paid servant. Now, alas, life is different. There is a new Saheb in the lala’s life; in fact, there are several. Babu log in Surat are called’saheb’.Day in and night out, Lalas rack their brains on how to find new ways of pleasing the ‘sahebs’, so as to be in their ‘good books.’ As if this was not enough, there is the other major task of keeping the ‘lalarina’ happy and pampered So,24/7 and through the 12 months of the year, a lala has to please both beuarocracy and biwi and needless to say ,within this whole exercise, one can very well guess who the new Ghulam is.

Surti Spidermen-In the days of yore, Lalas were superheroes. The Surti slang ‘chappra kudey’was,as the name suggests, given to adventurous lalas who would literally jump rooftops; within the old walled city of neighbouring homes, to visit their beau, who awaited on the terraces, to spend precious, private moments with their amour’, a la Romeo and Juliet. But the new suburban residences of rich Surtis has ensured ‘love don’t’ live here anymore ‘circumstances. Forget roof top jumping, even a lala farmhouse ,built with much love for their loved ones, is more of the kind of place that others use and all that the lala’s are left doing there is cleaning up the Surti spiders, man!

Roti kapda aur makaan-There was once a time when 8 course ‘Surat nu jaman’ meals were laid out with 3 farsans and 3 desserts and 5 vegetables for lalas to relish the rich man’s Surti meal. Cloth for lala’s shirts came from special shops that sold exclusive fabric. Every time the lala brought land, he was upgraded to being called a ‘zamindar’.Things have changed, eating a Surti meal now means standing at a ‘lahri’ next to common man, besides mangy dogs. Our paanwallahs wear linen shirts to work and owning land now means one is a ‘khedoot’.As if that was not enough, Shahrukh owns part of the Moon now, making piece of land sound passe’.

‘So you see dearie? He sighed as he boarded his swanky new chauffeur driven car,’ I paid for this SUV, but the good fortune to drive it, is Ganpat’s!’
What more can I say, other than,’yeh jeena bhi koi jeena hai lallu, err…lala?

Tapi town tattle-Aeronaughtricks

WHERE SURTIS WALK THEIR TALK………..
Long before Abhishek Bachhan advised the nation to walk the talk, Surtis have been seriously trying to sweat out those last 5 kilos…err make that 15, at tracks around Tapi town suburbs while they talk. With winter setting in, here is the inside info on some of our busy walkways and the buzz within them.

Peace and pace-The serpentine road that leads to Panas village through the agricultural cotton field farm, is one well trodden by denizens who prefer solitude. Since it still is a road less traveled compared to the ones that surround it, walkers can pray and maintain their pace as they prod in peace. Popular with elders who chant their mantras and exchange musings. Walk here to overhear home remedies for minor ailments.

Frangipani fragrance-With a grove of pristine white Frangipani trees, the SwamiVivekanand garden at Jamunanagar has a fair share gathering of walkers from different age groups and all walks of life. This bacchey buddhey aur jawan hotspot has the friendly chatter of children, serenity of its yoga posers and spring in the steps of its serious striders who warm up and stretch out. Child raising issues and maid problems discussed here.

Oasis of joy-Kavi Kalapi garden, opposite the Adajan police station, is what mirages are made of. A huge pond in the centre, surrounded by date Palms with cropped greenery thrown in for good measure, not to mention the cooling Banyan trees that lead to its entrance. Within pyramid like porches, people medidate as a gang of laughter club members have hilarious sessions to de stress. Conversations here mostly begin with ‘kehvano meaning em chey ke’, as one gets free lessons on real estate prices.

Where Seagulls dare-Our bridges over Tapi are popular twilight zones for people who love to stroll facing the blissful breeze pre Sunrise and post Sunset. A feel good, promising beginning and end to the day, where migrating birds flap around the river that runs to meet the Arabian Sea. Serious ‘only lonely’ walkers stride the pavements, communicating on their cell phones about the day’s business, stocks and shares.

Socks/Saas and the city-The happening place to walk and know what’s on in town, catch up on episodes of missed serials, learn new recipes, gain weight loss tips, and know about babu log’s babudom.Jogger’s park opposite Green Avenue,off Ghodod,is extremely popular on the chatterbox front. Pace and phrase go hand in hand at this walkway .A place where Surtis see and be seen in their sporty best.

Gazing and grazing-Opposite Sahaj super store stands the Swami Vivekananda Udyaan.With SMC’s, best but out of use swimming pool on one side and a casual cricket ground on the other. This palm lined park is abuzz with Bengali and bilingual buzz.Middleaged men gaze out at young tarangs to crown flavour of the month garden queens, while overgrown grass is made useful as cattle graze.

Jungle mein mangal-The biggie.With roads stretching out non stop to 2.5 kms in circumference, the SVNIT campus offers an eco friendly ambience for Surtis who have been walking and talking over the past 20 years and more. Flora, fauna and fountains surround the roads within. Fireflies dance to the tunes of frogs, peacock and peahens coo out with koels.More than 6000 listed striders, jam packed parking space proof enough of its popularity. Visit to eavesdrop on student soirees and businessmen’s banter.

Tapi town tattle-Namono show turns Namo, no show.

GOLWAAD –HEARTH OF THE RANAS.............
If you have been wondering what the majestic statue of the great Rana Pratap atop Chetak, is doing at the Kotsafil road island; the reason it stands there is a tribute by a community that claims to be his descendants .Mythology states, in the ancient days, Rajputs of Mewada adopted the name ‘Gola’ meaning menial servant or slave to protect themselves from the fearsome God, Parshuram. Shiva their protector gave them a mortar and pestle [what they call khandi dasto] for rice pounding as a trade to make a livelihood. Till date, rice pounding in the community holds a sacred significance.
Little is known about them other than what is written in an unpublished Gujarati book ‘Surat no Prachin itihaas’ by Thakordas Dhansingh and ‘Politics of Surat-1850 -1924, by Douglas Haynes.
The community now calls itself the ‘Ranas’. In the 17th century, they basically functioned as rice pounders, tailors, washermen, basket makers and potters, selling their wares in the Sheris of Navapura. Their closest friends were the people of the Ghanchi community that consisted of the oil pressers, milk sellers and firewood traders.
Although they were allowed to worship at temples of the then prevalent upper caste Hindus, their non Brahmanic practice of meat eating, alcohol consumption and widow remarriage were often cited as a threat to local moral order by a certain section of priests. Their approach towards spoken language was often unsavoury and unruly invoking disdain and anxiety, but due to their business, they had ties with members of the Vaniya, Parsi and Daudi Bohra communities.
Around the 1860’s, the golas ventured into the trade of jari making. The art of drawing fine threadlike wires from real gold and silver bullions that were shipped in from the European markets .Members of the joint families provided labour with females and even children performing important tasks. The entire process was carried out within their homes itself.
Thus the cost of hiring non-family members was low and rare. Even when artisans did not have a sufficiently large family, persons from within the caste were appointed for the task and married to a sister or daughter of the family head. The Golwaad community since then has remained impenetrable and extremely self contained.
In 1953,D.R.Gadgil and R.K.Patil wrote a book on the ‘Gold and Silver thread industry’, which states by 1910, Surat became a leading manufacturer of both jari and Kinkhab [silk and gold cloth]; far surpassing Ahmedabad, Yeola, Poona, Delhi and Lahore in the trade, its only rival in competition was Benaras, with its master weavers. In 1930, the Golas with their cost cutting strategy managed near total control in the trade and their traditional occupation officially changed to jari making.
During the First World War, panic struck Surat markets, since it largely depended on trade with Europe. Import restrictions on precious metals meant trouble for the jari makers and traders who had to face skyrocketing prices of gold and silver. Though with passing time just a handful who deal in business of real jari making have survived; the clan has now shifted to making artificial jari and just like the days of yore, gives serious competition to Benaras by helping Surti weavers make synthetic Benarasi sarees.
A lot of the old, walled city areas like Store Sheri, Sidhhmata Sheri, and Wadifalia have now been taken over by them since these are areas close to Golwaad, -a place where till date; the Ranas celebrate each day with tradition of working from home and each evening in Surti spirit, with their favourite ritual of,’batli, dana and a game of cards’.
TAPI TOWN TATTLE-How did the Consortium of Pub-going, Loose and Forward women greet Mutalik on V-day? ’Thong you very much!’

NATYASHASTRA NOT OUR SHASTRA?
Around the year 200 B.C, Bharat muni, the venerable sage, penned what is considered the Sutra, the Bible of classical Indian dance, rhythm and drama-Natyashastra. Written in Sanskrit, it is the fifth Veda-a compilation of recitation from Rigveda, melody from Samveda, the concept of acting from Yajurveda and sentiments from Athervaveda.

Natyashastra the oldest existent script on Indian art and culture is the base on which popular Indian classical dances such as Bharat Natyam, Kathak, Odissi etc.are based. It is the path that leads to the divine process of creation of dramatic art and its relation to the Vedas.

If a Surti would want to look up classes offering training for the same, chances are the results would show more dodhiya, salsa, filmy dance classes than those of traditional dance shailees.

While Surtis are eager zealots when it comes to dance any day, they prefer it to be freestyle and trendy.

Traditional dance has but few takers in our town, even when stalwarts like Hema Malini come in to perform a ballet occasionally; it’s more about her star appeal rather than the performance.

For people who deem this culture old fashioned, lets not forget that it has been kept alive through the spirit of people like the Late Protima Bedi, one of the most modern women of her times.

Dance diva Mallika Sarabhai once said,’ people are looking for tarat natyam in Bharat natyam these days’.

’Arangetram’ has turned into a major money spending event, once performed with rented gear and as a tribute to Guru and graduation, it is now a gala social status event .

Since Navratri is now over, Surtis are already gearing up for New Years Eve in December, enrolling and spending enormous amounts for western dance classes around Tapi town. The ‘dancing sirs’ will not only get them from fat to fit with fun, but will also get them geared for celebrating various disco parties held during Christmas season.

Sadly, over the years, the traditional Indian dance classes in town for Kathak, Odissi,
Bharat Natyam, for which we do have qualified Gurus, have stagnated. If you have happened to have learnt it as a child in Surat, you may very well be assured; your kids will be taught by the same guru.

We are yet to have an institute of state level caliber. With few takers and ever rising inflation, it has become difficult for most institutions to break even and progress providing the culture its ethos.

Inspite of which the ‘juna and jaanita ’teachers have held up the banners through come what may circumstances. At a very nominal tuition fee, they distribute ancient knowledge that would be considered invaluable in another city or state.

I recently received an e-mail that depicts the various health benefits of finger‘mudras’ when performed on a regular basis. Health and trend conscious Surtis lapped it up.

I have a bad feeling that just as food, fashion and western dance are accepted and popular in Surat only after they are altered to the Surti version, most people in Laladom would want some fusion in ethnic Indian dance culture, to be inspired enough to follow it.

Knowing only too well, how disastrous the result could be! I mean, can you imagine a Surti version of even the simple Mudras-‘Patak’,’Tri –Patak,’’Ardh-Patak’, to begin with? Now that would certainly be blasphemous!!!!!!