Hope Less For Heritage

Tombstone to kitchen slabs:

The SMC (Surat Municipal Corporation) is all set to sell Surat’s heritage-Hope Bridge as scrap. Should we be surprised? In a sheer case of neglect by the local governing body, Surat’s heritage sites seem to have slight hope of surviving. Here is another such story:
GRAVE DANGER

In 2000 years of its existence in India, the now minuscule Jewish community has never faced anti-Semitism

Holding on to their own identity; the Jews in India have Christian neighbours, Hindu colleagues and Muslim caretakers.

They celebrate with equal zest Durga Puja, Diwali, Rosh Hashanah and Christmas. Their synagogues here often resound with incantations in Hebrew echoing recitation from Talmud and Torah.

Our superstars and celebrities sport Star of David tattoos, our gourmands relish delicatessen from kosher cuisine, prime areas in metros such as Mumbai and Kolkuta are till date known after icons such as Sassoon and Ezra.

It was in Surat that the Baghdadi Jews first step foot on when they arrived in India .A prosperous merchant community from Aleppo, descendants of which migrated to Calcutta. They were cosmopolitan businessmen who extended their trading and financial network around the globe, dealing in Arabian horses, precious gemstones and rosewater.

The Encyclopedia of Jewish Diaspora‘s earliest record states,’ In 1730, Joseph Semah arrived from Baghdad to Surat and set up the Surat Synagogue here.’ When it comes to Jewish cemeteries however, Surat stands not much better off than Pakistan. As land sharks, vandals and garbage encroach upon and shatter the sanctity of their final place of rest, the last surviving tombs of Baghdadi Jews in Surat, struggle to protect their proof of life.

While the city’s English and Dutch cemeteries are now protected by the ASI and are the pride of the city’s ancient past, an 18th century Baghdadi Jewish graveyard is surprisingly, part of a private industrial estate ! Its present owners, the Asarawallas, chase off any visitors who try to enter the premises which faces the main road on Katargam.

Miscreants often climb over the 10 foot wall to use this unique burial ground as a urinal, garbage dump or sit around the graves to enjoy locally made alcohol, bottles of which they dump around this graveyard.

“In general, the cemetery is in a terrible state of neglect, this is clearly a legacy looted.” says Dr. Shalva Weil, Senior Researcher-Research Institute for Innovation in Education, Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Israel

One of the graves within is that of Moseh Tobi, buried here in 1769, he was considered an elder leader. In his book ‘A History of the Jews in Baghdad’, David Solomon Sassoon has mentioned “In the year 1769 Moses Tobi, who is styled ha-Nasi ha- Zaken [The Elder Prince] died in Surat”

In the urban mess of the city, while this heritage site is on the verge of extinction, another Jewish cemetery has already disappeared. In February 2003, Dr.Sara Manasseh from London, visited and reported the dire straits of two Jewish cemeteries in Surat, to the then Municipal Commissioner, Mr.Aloria.

Ms Manasseh’s report stated how these burial sites of historical, communal, national and archaeological importance were infested with wild pigs and garbage, urging the local governing body to take action and save them.

No action was taken, as a result of which, the Bene Israeli Kabrastan, which was in the vicinity of the SMC offices at Mugalisara, now longer exists. ”There are no more Jews left in Surat, in the absence of caretakers, their graves have disappeared too. The entire area was encroached upon by slum dwellers who converted marble tombstones into kitchen platforms.” Says Jolly Wellington, who resides in the vicinity.

“Jewish graves have beautiful cupolas and marble gravestones. But often, Jewish graveyards are not preserved by the civic authorities as part of the city’s heritage and history. In this context, the Vadodara Israeli Kabrastan is a very good example, as to how, a citizen’s initiative could preserve it”says writer Esther David.

In 2004, the Israeli Kabrastan at Nizampura in the Banyan city was saved by an awareness drive run by TOI and prominent denizens who lent support.

Can we hope to save our heritage? Or is that too much to ask from us Surtis; a business minded community whose prosperous present exists due to its glorious past.

The history of Surat's geography

Surat Municipal Corporation’s recent book release- ’At the Core’ not only provides a peek at the built heritage of Surat and Rander but also enriches readers with information on important areas of Tapi town and how their names came into being.

Tapi, also known as Suryaputri, is named after the Sun God’s daughter. Author Ishwarlal Desai who has penned one of the most wonderful versions of the history of our town –‘Surat Sonani Murat’ mentions how mythology revolves around the belief that the Sun God upon being pleased with the penance of Kapil Muni, settled in this region as Kantarswami, which is why it was known as Suryapur. Rander derived its name from his wife Rannade, while Ashwinikumar was christened after his son, who, locals believe performed the pyre rites for gods.

The name Choriyasi Taluka was derived from the fact that flags of 84 nations proudly furled over the trading ships that sailed the Tapi. As the town began to progress, turning into one of the most successful ports in global trade, various core areas of the city were named after rich merchants or clans that resided there, like Gopipura, Sonifaliya, Wadifaliya, Shahpore.

Certain areas were named after the trade that flourished there like Nanavat-where money of all International currency could be exchanged, Ruwala Tekro-where cotton commodity ruled, Machhlipit-fish market.

Saiyyedpura is said to have taken its name from the Sufi Saiyyed saint while Meccaipul derives its name via the ferry station bridge from where Haj pilgrims boarded ships that set sail to Mecca.

Rustompura is named after a leading Parsi trader in the 17th century-Rustom Maneck Seth (1635-1721) .This gentleman was the vital link for business between Aurungzeb, the Dutch and the British.A favourite with the monarch, he was gifted large areas of land which he named after himself and family members. Sagrampura was originally called Frampura, after his son- Framji Seth, Nanpura is named after his grandson, Nanbhoy Seth.

While the English and Dutch cemeteries are part of the city’s heritage structures, all that otherwise remains reminiscent of the British are the Hope Bridge and Andrews Library and though the Dutch did not make it to Delhi, their factory and garden are still very much part of our town .Interestingly, French Garden is present day Diwali Baug. While both the Dutch and the French gardens look out to the river, in the ancient times, the popular river fronts were the various Ovaras. Amongst the aptly named numerous Ovaras such as Navdi (boat), Ghanta (bell), Patali (Hanuman temple) Raja (King) the one that holds distinction is the Paanch Pandav Ovaro where, it is believed that the Pandava’s emerged ,through a secret tunnel ,when they escaped certain death.

The area we know as Mugalisara derives it name from Mughal Sarai where caravans once rested; it now houses the offices of the municipal corporation. Surat’s modern suburbs begin with Athwalines; its name comes from Athwa gate-meaning the eighth gate. Through its years of progress, rulers tried to secure our prosperous ‘city of Kubera’ with a circumference of two walls. The inner wall was named Sheharpanah (city shelter) while the outer one was Alampanah (shelter of the world).

Surat originally had 12 city gates which were majestic and named -Phatak Darwaja,Variyavi Darwaja,Katargam Darwaja,Lal Darwaja,Delhi Darwaja,Sahra Darwaja,Salabat Darwaja,Maan Darwaja,Navsari Darwaja,Jafarali Darwaja,Majura Darwaja,Athwa Darwaja-the positions of these were determined via the routes of trade.Even as the areas around these now non existant gates are still known by the same names,Surat’s Ringroad is the replacement of most of the same

From Chowk to Zhampa , Katargam to Timalyawaad, the city carries on its ancient names with pride. A few areas near Ramnagar in Rander and Sachin GIDC area are officially known as Pakistan Mohallo and Bangladesh Mohollo, thus named after migrants from those countries who are now successfully settled in Surat.