Thailand's spice and silk route

Thailand's spice and silk route

“Sorry sir,full moon night,so, no whiskey,no sexy.”said the bouncer blocking the bar entrance. The Gujaratis could not believe their ears; there they were, in Phuket, Thailand’s paradise for ‘paisawallahs’, they had all the money to spend in the world, but this ban certainly meant less bang for their buck.

“Eni behney! “Exclaimed one from the gang,”ahiya ho Poonam bharva jaay!”(they visit the temple on a full moon here too)
There is much more than the Thai‘wai’(namaste)that welcomes Indians to feel at home in Thailand; for a country where tourism thrives on the business of bars and babes-practices that are generally perceived as being outside the matrix of morality, it has staunch cultural traditions very similar to many followed within India and more so in Gujarat, which surprises first time visitors.

Business bonding

Around 8 lakh Indians visited Thailand in 2010,but Gujarat’s Shahbandars (Port men) were amongst the earliest who sailed out to its shores.During the ancient medieval times, Surat, Bharuch and Khambhat which were amongst the most active ports of the 52 which existed in Gujarat, had many traders sailing out with fine silk and spices to Thailand’s shores.Patan’s Patola silk is considered sacred and the fabric of gods there.Naturally dyed colour fast block printed cloth made by the masters of textiles in Ahmedabad was produced for export to Thailand.

Made by the Bhavsars of Ahmedabad,the cloth was known as ‘Saudagiri’-fabric meant for trade.This trade was monitored by three main corporations run by Vashi,Maskati and Baghi . The Imperial Gazeeteer notes how five workshops of Hindu and Muslim Khatris were set up in Pethapur for block printing fabrics to be exported to Thailand. The Gajjar community specially crafted wooden blocks with Thai motifs. Along with silk weaves ,cotton Kalamkar prints from Ahmedabad had high demand in Thai markets.Motifs woven within Thai silk till this date is inspired by these ancient designs.

In his book ‘The history of Thailand,’Patit Paban Mishra states how ‘spice and pepper trade in the Mediterranean by Gujarati traders resulted in the establishment of Muslim settlements in Southeast Asia.The Indian Muslims, newly converted to the religion themselves were not as orthodox as the Arabian followers of Islam.’

Gujarati entrepuener, Nishita Shah, 30, recently featured amongst Forbes magazine’s listing of Thailand’s richest.Gujarat’s Dawoodi Bohra community known to be ace businessmen were amongst the earliest trading communities to settle in Bangkok; in fact ,the oldest non-Chinese firm in Bangkok is the A.T.E. Maskati Company, established 1856 by Dawoodi Bohras of Ahmedabad who had sailed out from Surat and set up one of Thailand’s first international trading companies.

Food and culture.

Gujarat’s Khatri community too abstains from both meat and alcohol during full moon nights and a visit to the temple particularly that of Mahalakshmi is mandatory. Just as the evil eye is warded off by burning it back here, butter paper lanterns are lit and let up to burn out above the beaches of pristine sea waters there.

More than 94 % of Thailand’s population follows Theravada Buddhism which historians believe was spread via the messengers of Ashoka the great Indian king , locals believe in Ramakien –a Thai version of Ramayana..Over the years,Thailand has also preserved its Hindu characteristics acquired from Khshatriya immigrant colonies,via peaceful non political methods and more so by means of marriage.Traders who sailed out to Southeast Asia,often ended up marrying local women and settling there for good.Later,when their off springs were married back into Gujarat,they brought with them a varied Thai cuisine and long before fancy Thai restaurants were opened up in our country, Khatri home makers were conjuring up coconut and peanut curries tinged with lemongrass roots within the local kitchens.

Many Brahmins, who sailed there with Kshatriya kings settled in Thailand and were adopted into royalty and also performed coronation ceremonies. Indian themes thus got ingrained within Thai forms of dance and dramas. Method of worship is similar as Hindus, as are our Gods from Ganesha to Brahma.

Thousands flock the Sri Mariamman temple in Bangkok during Navratri .Bangkok's sacred destination - temple of Emerald Buddha has Ramayan depicted on its walls.A lot of retail shops in Thailand even within fancy malls begin the day by playing a recording of the Hanuman chalisa.

Geographically,the only link that connects India to Thailand are the lowest crags of the Himalayas ,foothills of which line Northern Thailand; its Salawin river flirts with Myanmar before flooding our Bay of Bengal. Surat and Tapi are names that read on the maps of both these two different countries which have similar customs. While Gujarat’s spices and silk enrich their day to day life, fruits imported from Thailand's 'Fruit Garden city'-Surat Thani, like Ramabutan, Mangosteen and Durian are now available here too. Along with similar English language speaking skills (or rather the lack of same) we also retain the title of being ‘city of good people.’