ODE TO UNDHIYU.............. As winter spreads its blanket of chill across the western belt of our country, it brings with it different meaning to different cities.

Ahmedabad, 275 kms North of Surat is celebrating with cultural programmes in open air under starlit skies .Its people, are enriching themselves in the wealth of poetry, dance, drama and musical recitals.

Mumbai, 275 kms South of Surat is celebrating winter fashion in style, whilst by lanes within Bandra are warming up with pre Christmas marketing.

Surtis on the other hand, are celebrating winter with what they do the best-preparing Gujarati gourmet delights. Surtis are foodies and every season brings in with it a special menu for the trimester.
All roads leading in to Surat from Vapi onwards, see smoke billowing from roadside stalls .The farm labourers from the Tapi to Vapi belt prepare a little known dish called the ‘umbadiyu’ in winter. Even son of the soil Kailash Kher couldn’t resist it, on his recent visit to the town.

The umbadiyu is a darker, smoky cousin of undhiyu.Made with wild black papdi from village Bhata, along with yam, sweet potato, brinjal, it is marinated with ginger and chilli paste then baked in a clay pot which is sealed with aromatic leaves of Kaler and Camboi.
This pot is buried in a hole in the ground, covered with hay and cow dung cakes and burnt for about 40 minutes; a small portion of this delicacy is put in an earthen kullad at the mouth of the matka to check when it’s done. This sampler is fondly called a ‘daakan [witch]'Umbadiyu is served with green chutney and buttermilk.
The Parsis from Udavada add on eggs and pieces of chicken to the same and call it Adadiyu [not to be confused with ‘adadhiyu’ of Daman which would mean 375 mls of alcohol].
Special khadiya-mundi mutton is prepared in most Khatri homes their version of Undhiyu consists of ‘papdi ma mutton’. Sprigs of fresh garlic greens are chopped for' lasan nu kachu'; as an accompaniment.

But, over and above all these preparations, the meal that is considered as the ultimate meal in Surti communities is 'Malai, puri and undhiyu'.

Many homes in Surat traditionally invite family and friends in winter for the same; the preparation is often marinated overnight for all the flavours to sink in.
Here is a salute to the unbeatable, irresistible, exclusive Surti preparation that does not taste as good anywhere else, the world over
–Ode to Undhiyu –
'O sweet creatures of Katargaam's creeper vine. You, the green papdi, tender as one would ever find,
With fragrance that lingers on the fingers that string you,Surrounded in the richness of yam ,plantains ,potatoes,sakariyas,stuffed wild brinjals and what have you .
Enriched in flavour by sesame oil and green garlic, prepared on the sim, marinated in chilli ginger paste; with supple fenugreek dumplings that enhance your taste.
While asafetida and ajwain are tempered to tease, as taste buds tuck in desiccated coconut and corriander, thoughroughly pleased.The epitome of Tapti cooking, a gourmet's delight, an art to achieve, an exotic treat.
A taste impossible to beat..............here is to you,'O Surti Undhiyu!'