HAULE HAULE HARMONY
When Yashraj Films released the music of their most awaited film this year, the janta were in for a surprise. In this age where hip hop ,techno and trance rule the roost of foot tapping music scores, the first music video aired was the song ,’haule haule’ which has a Harmonium playing its most important notes ,while Tablas and Dholaks hark beats in the background ,bringing in the sound of music from an era bygone! Needless to say, the simple song has turned into a huge hit.
In Tapi town, if one needs to buy a harmonium, or tablas, dholaks, nagaras for that matter, there is only one destination.Dhabgarwaad - situated between Limda Chowk and Bhagal ,is the street that has it all. The Surtis of this Sheri are called ‘Dhabgariyas’. They live above their shops.
As one enters Dhabgarwaad,on the right falls ‘Seep’ one of Surat’s first juice centres that Surtis regularly visit to enjoy a ‘ganga jamuna’,kaju anjir’.Seep is also popular with homemakers because it offers free and expert advice on how and where to repair a juicer, mixer, grinder in town.
The kiosks that lead on the bend in the road from then onwards, are owned by old, talented Surtis who carry forward family business of manufacturing and selling various musical instruments.
One of the ‘juna ane jaanita’ shop is that of Thakorbhai Chimanlal Tablawala.In the olden days, the hide of goats and buffaloes that go into the making of tablas, bongos and dholaks ,were skinned off the dead animals in Dhabgarwaad, itself. As generations changed hands in business, the younger ones now call in ready hides from Godhra, Sholapur, and Kolhapur; as is the case with wild wood which forms the frame of these instruments and comes in from various parts of Gujarat.
Tablas,Nals,Kongo etc. are only fitted, repaired and sold from here now.Bethaks’udhanis’ that form the stands on which tablas are settled in as well as tiny hatodis that are used to tune the same are also available. The hammers used to be made of ‘pittal’ once but are now available in iron versions.
Further on, shops on either side flaunt the flavour of the month’s festivals, kites, manja thread, fire crackers, Holi and rangoli colours, umbrellas, walking sticks, horse whips are sold here through the year.
At the other end of this colourful street are a few shops that manufacture and sell Harmoniums. With the demand for the same having gone down, these too have trickled down to a smaller number. ’Venilal ‘carries on the baton since it upgraded itself with selling fancy guitars, keyboards, drums etc. One could easily call it the ‘Furtados and sons’ of Surat.
There is a team of young music enthusiasts that carry on the tradition of selling these simple instruments that produce soulful music. Although they do not teach the same, they do recommend old teachers that run classes around town and visit homes to teach shastriya sangeet to Surtis.
Our city has changed its suburban shades to the beat of the 21st century, yet,Dhabgarwaad in the heart of Surat still renders out sounds of its age old splendour; and who knows, with changing trends of music these days, maybe someday, more Surtis would like to play old tunes too. Till then, Dhabgarwaad hums along in a haule haule harmony.
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