ODE TO UNDHIYU..............
As winter sets in, spreading its blanket of chill across the western belt of our country, it brings with it different meaning to different cities. Ahmedabad, 275 kms North of Surat is celebrating with cultural programmes in open air under starlit skies .Its people, are enriching themselves in the wealth of poetry, dance,drama and musical recitals. Mumbai, 275 kms South of Surat is celebrating winter fashion in style, whilst by lanes within Bandra are warming up with pre Christmas marketing. Surtis on the other hand, are celebrating winter with what they do the best-preparing Gujarati gourmet delights. Surtis are foodies and every season brings in with it a special menu for the trimester.
All roads leading in to Surat from Vapi onwards will see smoke billowing from roadside stalls .The farm labourers from the Tapi to Vapi belt prepare a little known dish called the umbadiyu in winter. The umbadiyu is a darker,smoky cousin of undhiyu.Made with wild black papdi from village Bhata, along with yam, sweetpotato, brinjal, it is marinated with ginger and chilli paste then baked in a clay pot which is sealed with aromatic leaves of Kaler and Camboi.
This pot is buried in a hole in the ground, covered with hay and cow dung cakes and burnt for about 40 minutes small portion of this delicacy is put in an earthen kullad at the mouth of the matka to check when its done. This sampler is fondly called a 'daakan[witch]'Umbadiyu is served with green chutney and buttermilk,often relished by the roadside.
The Parsis from Udavada add on eggs and pieces of chicken to the same and call it adadiyu [not to be confused with adadhiyu of Daman which would mean 375 mls of alcohol].
Winter's batch of Sugarcane crop will be put to good use ,grown in the numerous tiny villages that surround our town,carried out proudly in a jingling procession of decorated bullock carts to various sugar factories. Salempak, Methipak, Khajoorpak, Gunderpak are sweets prepared to fight the winter chill. A special khadiya-mundi mutton is prepared in most Khatri homes.Fresh garlic will be chopped for' lasan nu kachu' as well as be sprinkled over vegetables and various egg preparations. Of course our king green millet-Ponk will be much awaited. But over and above all these preparations,the meal that is considered as the ultimate meal in Surati communities is 'Malai,puri and undhiyu'.Many homes in Surat traditionally invite family and friends in winter for the same,the preparation is often marinated overnight for all the swad to sink in.
And this dearies is my salute to the unbeatable,irresistible exclusive Surti preparation that does not taste as good anywhere else ,the world over
–The undhiyu –
'O sweet creatures of Katargaam's creeper vine.You, the green papdi tender as one would ever find,with fragrance that lingers on the fingers that string you,
Surrounded in the richness of yam from Puna Kubharia,plantains ,potatoes,sakariyas,stuffed wild brinjals and what have you ,
Enriched in flavour by seaseme oil and green garlic,prepared on the sim, marinated in a chilli ginger paste; with supple fenugreek dumplings that enhance your taste.
While asafetida and ajwain are tempered to tease,as taste buds tuck in coconut and corriander,thoughroughly pleased.
The epitome of Tapti cooking ,a gourmet's delight ,an art to achieve,an exotic treat,a taste impossible to beat..............here is to you,'O Surti Undhiyu!'

Tapi Town Tattle-The two words that are taboo in friendship henceforth?----Dost,Aana!