HOW WELL WE KNOW OUR VINO!

Booze is the social glue of all mankind’, said dear old Barbara Holland who really loved her wine. In the ‘dry’ state city of Surat, nothing stands more true. It is customary in the Khatri community to share a ‘batli’ as they call it, on all occasions of social gatherings be it birth, death or weddings.’Surya ast toh khatri mast’, the men and women folk have their own circles on the home floors with ‘dana-chana’ and ‘mutton mamnas ‘doing the rounds as bite sized food accompaniments. The Golwaad area, often touted as a policeman’s nightmare, has ‘bhajiya patra’ kiosks busy as soon as the sun sets. Groups of regulars order from their doorsteps as gamblers gather for their evening session of game and daru.In the posh localities of southern Surat, come evening and restaurant phones are abuzz with home –delivery orders of a variety of starters Chinese toTandoori.Alcohol is easily the worst kept secret in Surat ,it is common knowledge. There are different ways to produce this dipsomaniac’s delight in Tapi town-
DIY-Do it yourself. In case you raise a surprised brow, let me tell you that in 1632 A.D., Peter Mundy, a European traveler who had spanned India, was surprised too at finding many people in Surat addicted to opium which grew on Surti soil in vast quantity.In the poppy fields, seeds and husks were seeped in water and an alcoholic bevearage called ‘poste’ was procured from it.Cannibes-Bhang was also used to prepare intoxicating drinks and alcoholics were then known as ‘postees ‘or‘bhangees’.In modern day Surat, alcohol is produced at 3 levels.
1. Potli /latthho- one of the worst kind made from soda ash powder used in polishing metals [kallai powder], koilo jaggery, navsar and khor which are put to boil in a tin within a ‘bhatti’ and cooled, then mixed with water and fermented in hidden areas often made in umra,bhatha and small villages around surat, this one is sold at rs.2.50 per glass and goes upto rs.10 .per ser on festive occasions.mostly consumed by the labourers and slum dwellers; it is lethal and triggers lung and intestine infection, along with severe throat inflammation.
2. Deshi-Narangi concocted from rotten fruits and hafeem with a few tablets of potent herbs thrown in the brew, the lower middle class buys it from Dumas, Bhimpore, Ved and Dhaboli.Available in small glass bottles at rs.10.
3. Tadi/Wine-In winters, the juice of ice-apple fruit is relished by early birds out for a walk but it is a well known fact that the ‘niro’ juice ferments and turns into intoxicating ‘tadi’ post midday! Surtis relish the niro and tadi as these are easily accessible and one of their favorite drinks .Surti women make wine at home during the grape season and store to savour it through the year.Grapes, whole wheat, yeast, de-chlorinated water and sugar are mashed and left to ferment in a sterilized ceramic bottle for 21 days. The prepared wine is then stored in glass bottles with cork lids. Shiraz, Chantilly, Chardonnay not withstanding, ‘Nothing more satisfactory than home made surti wine ‘, swear the housewives.Well what more can I add to that except, ‘Cheers! To the Surti “spirits”!’