9 Divine Prachin Garbas

9 Divine Prachin Garbas

With the return of popular Prachin (traditional) Garbas this year, raas revelers within Surat’s sheris have been swinging to pious ancient prayers.

Penned centuries ago, the essence of these folklores in song format is about the miracles of Mataji in all her Nav Durga incarnations

All garba evenings commence with the Jay Aadhya Shakti Aarti , post which garbas are sung out in praise of individual goddesses

1.Padvey thee pehlu Ma nu nortu jee rey- Officially sung out as the first garba of Navratri, this song comprises of the importance of the nine nortas in accordance to the nine goddesses, describing the strength of each avatar - Śhailaputrī, Brahmachārini, Chandrakaṇṭā, Kuṣhmāṇḍā, Skandamātā, Kātyāyanī, Kālarātrī, Mahāgaurī and Siddhidātrī

2.Aadhya shakti tujne namu re bahuchara – Penned by Vallabh Dholabhai Bhatt,this is known as ‘Vallabh no garbo’. Mythology mentions that Bhatt was born deaf and dumb but was gifted the boon of Saraswati, the Goddess of knowledge and miraculously cured, after which he spent his life penning devotional songs like ‘darshan gyani aanand no garbo’. Legend also has it that Vallabh’s faith in the unseen Goddess led him to be imprisoned by the then Mughal ruler and his prayers to Aadhya Shakti Ma resulted in her promise of showing her presence to humans. The goddess appeared at Nathdwara, within the idol of Shrinathji, which is why, since then, Shrinathji, who is a male God has been adorned with a ‘nathni’ (nose ring.)

3.Maa no garbo re ramey raj ne darbar –Known as ‘Virat no garbo’ this one goes all out to describe the sheer splendour and magnitude of the Goddess’s might.

4.Maa Pava te gadh thi utarya Mahakali re ( Goddess Mahakali descended from the Pavagadh hills)

5.Tu Kali re ne kalyaani Maa ( Thou ,goddess Kali are the miracle maker )

6.Patayee raja garbadiyo koravo

7.Tu Pava ma ‘pragtani’ re Maa

These four songs sung in praise of Ma Kali Pavagadh wali are arguably the most popular and also the most controversial. While the first two speak of her divine prowess, the latter two are about the story of king Patayee of Pavagadh, notorious for having misbehaved with Kali Ma by trying to hold the helm of her sari pallu and inviting her to spend a night at his palace, which is why ,many singers belt out the lyrics as ‘Tu Pavani Patrani re Ma “ ( you are the queen of Pavagadh) which is incorrect. Rajkot’s music composer Utpal Jivrajani argues this theory and points that,”Historical granths have clearly stated that king Patayee was in fact Maa Kali’s great devotee.”

8.Vishwambhari stuti akhil vishwa-This devotional song with authentic chhand matra ek taal is phonetically pronounced in Sanskrit. The charm of this classic composition lies in the fact that it is sung out in perfection, at every home, crossroad and garba venue, even by people who do not know Sanskrit and are neither trained in music.

9.Amba aavo to ramiye Maa maney ramta nahi aavde- A friendly teaser to Amba Maa ,inviting her to teach and play garba with mere mortals, its lyrics are endearing and childlike.

It is through songs such as these that the bond between goddesses and devotees has strengthened since ages. As the baton of tradition is passed on down generations, the ‘Garbhdeep’- lamp within earthen pot stays illuminated forever even as believers soulfully belt out ,’Pawan sapata thay,toye Maa no garbo ghoomto jaay’

Layman's Quickie Dodhiyu Guide

Layman’s Quickie Dodhiyu Guide


All right people, its time to sway and it don’t matter if you think you are not up to it. You need to be out there in the swirling circle as hearts and feet go scampering, trying to out do each others beats.

You have tried your hand at fencing the simple raas dandiya and returned home with a swollen finger or two. You managed to maneuver within human circles that swung to the humble two taali and three taali garbas, but now, dread dandiya season’s big bad daddy - the Dodhiyu.

A’ Dodhiyu’ in Gujarati means ‘one and a half’. It consists of a ménage-`a-troi of hop, skip and jump. One needs to hip hop, skip a beat or two and then jump in victorious delight. Often, the hands do not climax in a clap, even as one’s head sways in smooth surrender.

Invented by Amdavadis in the early eighties, the Dodhiyu is dependant on rhythm alone .It allows independent expression of one’s major body parts, as limbs, abdomen, hips, eyes and neck gracefully groove to an unchained melody. Instructors describe it as, ‘a dizzy drill which makes you forget whether you are going to or fro, while you crave for more.’

Here is a step by step breakdown to understand it a little better:
You begin in a circle facing outwards, step out with your right foot while your left hand shows the way, then step inwards half a circle with your left foot even as arms gracefully sway out in full swing, fore fingers pointing skywards, next, a sudden turn in the opposite direction,a full circle ensures that you are part of the merry go round, jerk your body as you skip a beat and take a heech before you take the next two steps forward, one inward and the other outwards to complete the routine of one permutation and reach the position you had begun from - a total of 6 moves if you please.

If you think that was complicated, remember, it’s just the first, basic step. One then upgrades to 8, 10, 12, 16, 22,26,32,36 steps which include innumerable variations of hand and footwork.

While Vadodara’s garba girls are renowned for their graceful gait in this art, in Surat, Dodhiyu is slick and spicy and has more ingredients to it than the Surti Undhiyu. This year Surtis are swaying to the Millennium Twist - a do it yourself 42 step Dodhiyu which makes the watchers swoon as revelers go in and out and all about, doing their thing in a peacock like prance.

Be warned that the Dodhiyu is extremely addictive and once you have mastered the art, nothing will manage to stop you from swinging.

Here Come The Hautesteppers......Ae Haalo

In Gujarat, it is one thing to celebrate Navratri for its religious purpose and completely another to live it up for its sheer glam quotient .These nine and a half nights bring along with them the haute stepping sultans of swing, out in full splendour with bare feet, barer backs. Backless cholis make sexy humjolis(companions)and Gujarati women hold their place in history for having invented the same. In his book’ Indian Dress: A Brief History’, author Charles Louis Fabri has noted how, ‘The first recorded examples of the choli, the bodice or blouse, are found, in the pre-Mughal miniature paintings of Gujarat, mostly Jain religious manuscript illuminations.’ Present fashion’s gravity defying tactful tailor technology not only manages to gracefully hold the shoulder boulder in place but also save face in stringy situations, even as the booty is held together by a mere fancy broach or semi precious stone. “Bollywood has a marked impression on Surat’s revelers this year. I have designed Kareena cholis with Bodygaurd movie colour themes, as well as Singham ghaghras. Surtis are swearing by locally made laces on brocade, jacquard crepes for ghaghras teamed with sheer chiffon or georgette dupattas .The look is heavy but light in weight .Only participants of competitions are sticking to traditional patch worked gear.” says Sangeeta Choksi, who designs for Surat’s suburbians.

The Jolie art behind the cholis too has undergone a new avatar. Younger girls are opting for tattoos on small of their backs and their waists, a la Deepika from Dum Maro Dum, shown off at the spot where the odhani is tucked in. Ahmedabad’s popular tattoo artist Jagruti Parmar points out that,” Youngsters want their tattoos to look permanent and so, this year, stickers and paint are passé. The in thing is translucent nail varnish and a transparent top up coat ensures that its sweat proof too. It’s easy to apply and quick to change. Girls have patterns like a base butterfly /dragonfly etched out in black ink and they come in to change the design and colour of their wings everyday, to match their outfit.” The boys meanwhile are getting temporarily inked on neck napes and behind ear lobes, to show off body art. Magnetic diamante ear studs for boys as well as push button navel studs and rings for girls are sparkling this season, and have replaced body piercing. Florescent coloured braids are making way within hairdos to match up to the magnetism of garba gear. Unlike Vadodara’s strictly traditional garba ramzhat, jhankaar beats are set to jazz up Mallika Sherawat’s ‘Jalebi Bai’ number at commercial venues within the state. Rajkot’s Racecourse grounds are offering pure Prachin and Arvachin Garbas sung out in the praise of the nine goddesses of Navratri.” The locals have demanded pure folk songs this year. Also making a big come back are Titodas, and remix Dhunki Daklas like ‘Ae Ma khamma khamma maadi’.Daklas are played to the beat of talking drums - an instrument known as Daklu.” Says singer Utpal Jivrajani. The only modern theme here is sneakers, as twirling troupes have matched chaniya cholis and kediyu dhotis with sports shoes for better stepping comfort. It’s the season of dancing, prancing and romancing and Gujaratis are putting their finest step forward.

Stand By Me

Hope For Heritage

‘When the night has come and the land is dark
And the moon is the only light we see.
No I won’t be afraid, no I won’t be afraid
Just as long as you stand, stand by me.
And darling, darling, stand by me…..’

These lyrics that were originally penned by John Lennon for The Beatles’ legendry album -‘Unsurpassed Masters’, have now, somehow found their way for a song in Ra.One-an upcoming Shah Rukh Khan flick. But these lyrics literally stand true for Surat’s good old Hope Bridge.

For, since the time it was constructed, the Hope Bridge has never failed to strongly stand by us Surtis. Since 1882, records have been maintained of flood gauges at the Hope Bridge.

Official reports in the book ‘Hydrology and water resources of India’ by Sharad K. Jain, Pushpendra K. Agarwal, Vijay P. Singh ,state how “Floods were a frequent phenomenon in Tapi river before Ukai Dam was constructed. During 1876 to 1970, danger level was crossed at the Hope Bridge, in Surat on 19 instances. This implies a frequency of once every five years. High floods were experienced during three consecutive years from 1882 to 1884.There was a very high flood in August 1944 and actually two almost similar flood peaks occurred in the same week. A heavy flood, only slightly lower than that in 1994 was experienced again in 1945. Consecutive large floods were also observed in 1958 and 1959.Heavy floods were observed in 1968, 1969 and 1970.The floods of September 1959 and August 1968 were catastrophic. The floods of 1994 and 1998 also cause considerable damage to Surat city.’

While we Surtis have recently waged a war for air connectivity, the Hope Bridge is our pioneer symbol for connectivity. In the book ‘Power Protest and Participation: Local Elites and Development in India’, author Subrata K Mitra has pointed out that,”One of the major factors for Surat’s substantial change in economy was the growth of means of transport and communication. The construction of a railway line in 1860 and the building of a bridge the Hope Bridge on the Tapti in 1877 contributed greatly to trade and commerce. Closer links with the world outside also provided greater incentives of mobility.’ How can we afford to disregard the importance of this network of metal that has helped the town strengthen its mettle?

Even as we extend our unconditional support to the Anna Hazare movement, it is Hope Bridge that connected Gandhians and played a major role in the lives of many. Bapu’s personal secretary, Mahadev Desai, the man who translated Bapu’s ‘My experiments with the truth’ to English, has a strong connection with Hope Bridge. In Desai’s biography, ’The Fire and the Rose’, it is noted how Mahadev and his friends commuted via the bridge for education.,’The three boys used to go to Surat from Adajan through the fields, on the river bank and then cross the river by Hope Bridge.Mahadev studied at Surat High School.’

In an interview with our previous Municipal Commissioner Ms. S .Aparna, I asked which her favourite place in Surat was. She answered,” I love being on the bridges. Surat appears most beautiful from them.” As denizens of this town, if you still fail to connect with Hope, try asking your parents or grandparents about it and watch their memories flow. The beauty of Tapi riverfront project is unimaginable without the ancient charm of the Hope Bridge. Envisage how someday, you could take your favourite novel and coffee mug and enjoy it on a riverside bench while you gaze out at the fabulous framework of Hope Bridge occasionally.

Earlier this year, the people of Kashmir saved their heritage bridges –Zaina Kadal (15th century) and Zero bridge (1957), the last two wooden bridges which are ‘the epitome of tradition.’ The Punular Suspension Bridge in Kerala (1877) was saved by a citizen movement. From peaceful protest walks, to candle light vigils and college student visits for causes believed in, it’s the citizen support that has helped save heritage, the world over.

You need not be a superhero to save heritage, just be you, as Hope calls out ,

'whenever you are in trouble wont you stand by me ,oh now ,now stand by me,just as long as you stand,stand by me,stand by me.

Hope For Heritage

Hope for Heritage

Theodore Hope,a British civil servant in the late 1800s,was in love with Gujarat's heritage and even penned a book on Ahmedabads architecture.It is a sad commentary on todays times that the Surat Municipal Corporation is planning to sell as scrap a bridge named after him

The state government may be willing to reduce to rubbish Surat's Heritage Hope Bridge circa 1877, but theman behind the bridge-Theodore Cracraft Hope believed in appreciating and preserving Gujarat’s ancient architecture.

Hope penned the book ‘Architecture at Ahmedabad :The Capital of Goozerat’in 1866 ,for The Committee of Architectural Antiquities of Western India,under the patronage of Premchand Raichand .Dedicated to the memory of Hon. Alexander Kinloch Forbes, who inspired Hopes and awakened a “ Love for the romantic history and graceful architecture of Goozerat “ in him.

Pics:Col.Thomas Biggs.Architecture at Ahmedabad:Capital of Goozerat,1866


The book is a meticulous labour of historical and descriptive sketch of Gujarat’s dynasties and Ahmedabad's built Heritage structures. Recreated through Theodore’s words that describe the splendour of Jain architecture in Gujarat, as well as the mystic of Ahmedabad’s various Mosques with their unique mode of natural lighting; all of which, are stunningly captured within the camera of Colonel Biggs.

Hope was besotted by the tracery and niches found in Ahmedabad’s ancient architecture and describing both, the Hindu-Muslim forms of design ,he has written ,” Generally these were drawn with a free hand, and at the same time they form the most beautiful details, taken singly, to be found in Ahmedabad. All are different, not only in detail but often in character, but all are beautiful.”

Theodore considered the stone windows of Sidi Saiyed Jaalis as unsurpassed universally and has described them thus,”As examples of this class, they are perhaps unrivalled even in India. At Agra and Delhi there are some nearly as fine, but neither so extensive nor so exquisitely balanced as these. There is something wonderfully beautiful in the mode in which construction is, in these examples, combined with mere ornamentation. It is probably more like a work of nature than any other architectural detail that has yet been designed even by the best architects of Greece or the Middle Ages.”

Hope’s effort to spread awareness about the state’s history and built heritage wealth via this book has found shelf space worldwide; not only in the British Library but also at Harvard University Library and other prestigious educational institutions around the world, where historians, scholars, students of architecture and fine arts refer to it for sourcing information about Gujarat’s glorious past.

Theodore spoke five European languages when he first joined the Bombay Civil Service in 1853. Within two years, he was appointed as Inspector for Gujarat’s then newly formed Education Department. His ‘Hope Vachanmala’ (Hope’s Readers) ,a set of well known text books were prepared for use in basic schooling, translated by local scholars and found instant popularity. In his book ’ Literary Cultures in History’, author Sheldon Pollock has stated how Navalram Pandya ,a pioneering critic, found many similarities between Hope’s style of writing to that of our own great poet Narmad Shankar Dave’s in ‘Narmadgaya’. Pandya observed that,” Both their narratives were simple, native and mature and were equally loved by the educated and uneducated, unlike other pompous Sanskritized Gujarati.”

The energetic collector of Surat, Sir Theodore Cracraft Hope was among the finest of the colonial gentry and in his service of 34 years in India; he spent eight years at Surat, enhancing the city’s civic amenities. He was a favourite among locals not only because he was a model of administrative efficiency but because he heard the petitions every evening himself and chatted freely with the Surtis to sort out their issues.

During Surat's most extensive period of reform, as collector of Surat and head of its municipality, Hope reported to his seniors,"Municipal government can never be a popular government in the sense that it is liked by the people because the very reason de'etre of the Municipality is a perpetual war with those problems which are normal with the mass of the population, and are either followed or looked on with favour by too many upper classes." states Douglas E Haynes in his book ,’Rhetoric and Ritual in Colonial India.’

Today, Surat’s Hope Bridge, hopes for a little understanding of its priceless value by its Municipal governing body, as it stands proudly amidst other bridges, as the first amongst its sequels.

http://lite.epaper.timesofindia.com/mobile.aspx?article=yes&pageid=4&edlabel=TOIA&mydateHid=11-09-2011&pubname=&edname=&articleid=Ar00400&format=&publabel=TOI

Hope Pul in the year 1957 ,clicked by Shri V N Mehta,Surat.Courtesy & copyright, V N Mehta & Co

 

A view from the bridge

My beloved Surtis,
I reach out to you today in hope to bridge the gap between us and bond with you just as I did with your father, grandfather, great grandfather and his forefathers.
I was built at a time when our beautiful city had lost its importance as a port but it carried on business as usual with its au natural chutzpah and am glad to see that today, it is one of the fastest growing cities in the world.

We bridges normally tend to go unnoticed, but I am grateful to have had my share of limelight in my heydays. I have been lucky enough to be Tapi town’s first strong handshake that holds together the two shores of Tapi that never meet. The importance of my being is prevalent in the fact that we now have so many more bridges linking either banks of the Tapti, even as the river runs through them. Connecting cultures and communities of Surat and Rander, I have illuminating memories of a glorious past

I am thrilled to see fancy four wheel drives zoom on my fellow bridges. During earlier times, I had regal horse carts trotting over. They were called Victorias, Aeko and Seagram depending on the way they were styled and the handsome horses that drew them. A few had vintage box like carriages, made of teakwood with brass fittings. Just like you people go jogging in your fancy sports gear over the new bridges, many Surtis came to take a leisurely morning or evening walk in simple footwear via me, since I was then, the longest straight stretch in town. I have seen the Delhi sultanate flag and the British flag come down at the fort, even as our Tiranga was raised and unfurled proudly.

The chowpatty garden was not developed then, hence I was a hotspot for the denizens. I was visited by pretty girls with sharp eyed moms, children with parents who came to watch visarjan of Dashama and Ganesha idols that were performed from various Ovaras. There used to be a mere 15 to 20 idols at the most. And often, a holy being came resting against one of my pillars for a while. It was through me that foodies trudged towards the ‘Ponk Nagari’ at Rander to relish Sugarcane juice, Ponk and buttermilk.

I have had the privilege to have been mentioned in many books and the Bombay Gazetteers. Behramji Malabari once wrote in his book Gujarat and Gujaratis that,”There is not much to be seen in Surat, except, of course the new Hope Bridge. It is a fine strong structure and is no doubt a great convenience to the people. It cost over seven lakhs .There are many larger bridges in India; but to the stick at home Surtis their bridge is a marvel of human ingenuity. I am not surprised that some of them worship it and offer sacrifices to the presiding genius.”

As you know, I have been named after the energetic collector of Surat, Sir Theodore Cracraft Hope. He was among the finest of the colonial gentry and in his service of 34 years in India; he spent eight years at Surat, enhancing the city’s civic amenities. He was a favourite among locals not only because he was a model of administrative efficiency but because he heard the petitions every evening himself and chatted freely with the Surtis to sort out their issues .Theodore also stressed on education and his ‘Hope Vachanmala’ a set of well known text books were prepared for use in basic schooling. In his book Literary Cultures in History, Sheldon Pollock has stated that Hope’s style of writing was found similar to that of our own great poet Narmad Shankar Dave’s in ‘Narmadgaya’. Scholars observed that,” Both their narratives were simple, native and mature and were equally loved by the educated and uneducated, unlike other pompous Sanskritized Gujarati.”

I was also featured in At the Core –a book on Surat’s built heritage by the SMC –UBC this year, but yet, strangely, they seem to be ready to dismantle me. I am old, rickety and have seen better years. But, I still stand tall as I always have, through the worst floods that have devastated the city. I am living history and I do not want to die before my time. I hope to share my stories with your children and grand children, just as I did with your forefathers. I hope that you will give me a chance to do so.

Surtis are known as great businessmen, so let me lay down the brass tacks- It will cost you nothing to raise your voice for me, but in return, you will gain an ancient treasure.

Hopefully yours,
Hope Pul.