SURTIS –AN AAM JANTA………..
Will Hillary rise to emerge over Obama? Will Shoaib Akhtar procure NOC from the other side of the LOC? Will the lawyers of lalaland get justice? None of these questions were bothering the aam aadmis of Surat over the weekend. All that we were worried about was whether or not the weather would wither our tropical treat. April showers are after all disastrous for May flowers. As if the Arab attack on mangoes was not enough to delay the arrival of our gastronomic delight!

Raised on fun, freedom and food, Surtis prefer pure breed over hybrid. Earliest childhood memories for majority of us therefore, include,’ the mango hoarding sessions ‘practiced by our grandparents. Most rooms in the house would be converted into larders, strewn with gunny bags where the king of fruit would preside, crowned with hay. On a daily basis, the precious potassium rich procurements would be sniffed, segregated and savoured with great passion. What would begin with a tender fresh aroma of the juicy, summer fruit; would turn into a full, robust fragrance around the house as the treasure switched colours deep as jewels-emerald green to ruby red to gold.

Even as Spanish chefs ‘spherify’ mango juice with hydrocolloids to make it look like caviar for avant garde cuisine, Surat is one place where mangoes are prepared in varied desi versions. Sliced, diced or spiced, we Surtis love this one right to the core.
Picked as early as its budding stage,’morva’ for fresh dry salad pickle by tossing it in a fenugreek-chilli mixture and ‘panechi’, made with water, salt and turmeric. Kagda Keri is popularly used for sweet and spicy chutney as well as ‘chunda and murabbas’ that make cool consumption in hot summers. Raw Rajapuris are pickled [methiya Keri, gol Keri, etc.] to be savoured with Surti food around the year. Its strips and seeds are Sun-dried to be powdered for tangy Amchur and masala gutlis.

In our city where food and fruit is looked upon as a status symbol, the supreme Ratnagiri Alfanso rules the roost followed by the Valsad haphoos. With mercury rising, arrive the aces of aam ras-Rajahpuri, Kesar, and Pairi.Surti households concoct their own combination of these to produce a lip smacking variety of mango pulp that is savoured with 7 padi rotli, puris or the Surti exclusive-Khaja .Some lace the juice with ghee, salt and cumin powder before relishing it others use Mango seeds, ‘gotlas’ to cook a spicy curry called’ fajeto’ to be savoured with rice.Dussheri, Chausa, Safeda, Popat, Mulgubbo and Karanj Keri trail into town later, spreading sweetness. Last but not least Neelam and Langdo tag along, to offer the gourmets a final delight. As distinct as each mango is in its flavour, Surtis sure know how to maximize its use.
The migrants have brought in recepies like;’aam panna,’and ‘aam ki lunji’ which have found instant fan following in our town. Crave-a-licious mango desserts- shrikhand, shakes and sorbets are prepared at home and roadside kiosks. Bitter gourd, Alocacia leaves, Idla and Salang Ni daal are frequent team members of the surti mango meal. Special ras-puri, ghosh-puri dinners are hosted during this season.

Surtis easily succumb to their taste buds. In spite of not actually being a local produce, Mangoes rule Surti hearts more than any other food. Little wonder then, that the royal Mango, is the King of fruits and we Surtis are the loyal –‘Aam’ Janta.