ashleshaa khurana

Discovering Damao In Daman

2012-02-08T04:59:00.000-08:00

DISCOVERING DAMAO IN DAMAN

Vasco Da Gama discovered the sea trade route to India in 1498, but the Portuguese discovered Daman only in 1523 and that too by default. India’s Viceroy D.Nuno da Cunha had ordered ships to set sail towards Hormuz; when the one carrying Diogo de Melo got caught in a huge storm resulting an off coast embankment on the Daman Ganga river.

Enchanted by the grandeur of the city’s port, Diogo brought it to the Viceroy’s notice. However, the Portuguese could conquer Daman only on 2nd February 1559, when Constanino de Braganza, the Governor of Goa, attacked the local Abyssinian defense of 3000 soldiers with a fleet of more than 100 vessels.

The Governor ordered a new, stronger fort –St.Jerome to be erected, strategically located at the harbour, just a stone’s throw from the town market and appointed Diogo de Noronha as Captain – Major of Daman, with a team of 1200 men .For 400 years since, the twin fort city remained under Portuguese rule, until Operation Vijay launched on 17th December, 1961 by the Indian Army, Navy and Air Force linked the territory to become an integral part of India.

Four centuries of Portugal’s influence gave birth to new customs and cultures and the locals went with its flow. Historians confirm the territory of Daman, known as the Northern Province, extended from Bulsar to Bassein ( Valsad to Vasai). The Portuguese masterminded export of Indian goods to foreign shores from Daman’s market. ‘Trade and finance in Portuguese India ‘, by Celsa Pinto points out how Daman and Diu derived their strength from Gujarat’s plains, noted for their fertile soil and agricultural productivity like cotton, centers of textile like Ahmedabad, Surat and Rajkot supplied woven fabric while lowlands surrounded by hills and jungles benefited for opium production and teak. Daman’s percentage of coastal traders was higher than the other two Portugal settlements of the Estado.

A paper written on Damao, by author Athos Fernandes for an international symposium,now published as a book on Goa-Portugal Their Cultural Links, informs readers about Portuguese domination in Daman - The first coin mint was established in 1617, when D.Lourenco de Tavora gave the license to mint copper coins known as bazarucos. The second and third mints came up on 1617 and 1769.Till date, locals often use the term ‘Num te bazaruco’- “I don’t have money.”

In 1773, the prime minister of Portugal announced that the shipyard at Daman-Caliana had done more than the entire maritime unit of Goa had achieved in a century. Christened Royal Shipyard thereafter, it made famous vessels like frigate ‘D .Fernando e Gloria,’ (19th century) which sailed for 33 years, transporting military personal from India to Angola, to Mozambique and back.

By the 19th century, Daman had its own newspaper -’O Portugues em Damao’, a weekly which began on 18th July 1835 and was so much in demand that it got distributed at night itself .Its editor was Prof.Solinas ,from Goa. Unlike the British who concentrated only on trade, the Portuguese were on a mission to spread religion and conversion. Churches, convents, colleges and seminaries sprouted up, beckoning neighbouring denizens. ’Our lady of Remedios’ at the Church in Moti Daman is believed to be a Hindu, one of the seven sisters of Goddess Laxmi, worshipped by seamen. .

Flavours of culinary cuisine such as espetada de leitao, pao-de-lo, alh –piment de bombilins,xacuti,dal bafad,dampaca, bacalhau and borao ,savoured with imported wines along with locally prepared bolo de sura-fermented sap of the palm tree found favour at local tables on festive days. Caravel dance and Portugal’s fado music retained immense popularity with the Damanense. Fishermen’s folk songs merged with local lore are still sung out at the sea.

Four hundred and fifty years since Daman was first influenced by the Portuguese, the impressions of its culture remain stamped all over the town. Last week, the Damanense celebrated World Daman Day on 2nd February, in nostalgia, sighing ,’Saudade Damao’and singing as Portuguese poet has penned in his collection ‘Mensagem’-

“O Mar Salgado, quanto do teu Sal Sao Lagrimas de Portugal !”

(Oh salty sea, how much of your salt are tears of Portugal!)

Corkage Charge In Tipple Town

2012-02-08T04:51:00.000-08:00

Corkage Charge In Tipple Town

Surat’s most popular senior citizens-Mr.Magan Batla and aunty Batli held a, ‘Dampened Spirits Drive’ last evening.

It was in lieu of a protest against the arrest of the honourable city Mayor’s cousin brother and others, on charges of consuming alcohol in a public place (a Ghoddod Road discotheque, barely half a kilometer from Umra Police Station and just a hop, skip and jump behind the Mayor’s home, a backyard premises he has rented out).

It wasn’t an Alcoholics Anonymous meet, mind you, which surprisingly exists at large through the dry state, with Surat scoring the maximum number of members there too.

This was one where so called thinkers of Tapi town came together to discuss on a sober and serious note, the price and punishment that denizens are paying for prohibition.

On the promise that they remain incognito, anguished Surtis stated their quotes and views of the public in general.

“Prohibition has become the new weapon for vendetta in our town! Anyone can pick up the phone and complaint .There is no end as to how many ‘mehfils’ police raids will yield from homes, every single night.”

“Imagine what kind of names will tumble out if we apply via RTI to know who all have been arrested for alcohol consumption in Gujarat, so far?”

“Vat 69 ney vaat laga di!”

“My uncle is penning a new prohibition Kolaveri version called,” Why this hypocrisy, hypocrisy policy di, ho Modi!”

“Where is the booze coming in from? I read that bootleggers supplying to Gujarat have an annual turnover of 1500 crores!”

“Those are last year’s figures, now that the noose is tighter, rates might have doubled.”

“I always assumed that having an alcohol permit meant ‘License to drink’ but, my friends were sitting ducks and met their nemesis in an apartment when they were raided for drinking at home!”

“Dint this happen the same night as the one in which Parmeshwar Godrej’s party for Oprah was raided thrice by the Mumbai Pandus?”

“No, and stupid, Mumbai does not have prohibition issues, they were raided for causing commotion next to an MLA’s residence.”

“I am a teetotaler, yet, I pay more taxes because prohibition costs a loss of Rs.3000 crores of revenue to the government and I heard that they have to make up for it by hiking our basic taxes.”

“Aaprey toh kaee didhu, aapunney kaai pher parto nathi, lai javo ander,juo ! Bus,aapra bapa hudhi vaat nahi pahunchvi joyey ,whu ?”

‘I have decided to pen a book on it and name it “Night at Police Station; Nightmare at Civil Hospital”

“Surat’s police are trying really hard to brush off last year’s accusation of procuring the maximum bribes in the matter of prohibition. A leading weekly national magazine had summed it up to around 70 lakhs.”

“Can you imagine that wedding cocktail parties are now the main reason for Surtis to organize destination weddings? How do you expect us hoteliers to lose millions of rupees in this manner and still take it in the right spirit?

“The closest getaway is Daman, with the amount of spurious liquor flowing from there these days; you could have a river of elixir running through it!

“I hear after acing at duplicate Black Label, they now excel at aping single malts too, packaging and all!”

“Daru, daru, daru, daru, daru, daru, daru hic!”

“Can we please get back to the issue now? Do you know how distilleries are minting millions by shoving excise free booze into the state?”

“Also, hooch king pins are crorepatis here.”

“This is just a vote bank policy, in the name of Gandhiji.”

“Did you know that Gandhiji’s grandson had once stated on national television that, “There are many other things which Bapu stood for which we should be practicing, but which no one does. Prohibition in Gujarat is an industry which finances politics, politicians and police."

“How come having no prohibition in SEZ does not offend Bapu, but consuming alcohol in other areas of Gujarat does?”

“I think it’s the women in the state, who vote in favour of prohibition, whom politicians do not want to displease.”

“ Eni maaney !!!!!! ……….pun mari ni maaney !”

British Punch: A Surti Concoction

2011-12-08T18:05:00.000-08:00

BRITISH PUNCH: A SURTI CONCOCTION

You know from Eastern India came
The skill of making punch as did the name.
And as the name consists of letters five,
By five ingredients it is kept alive

It is a curious fact, not generally known, that Britain’s favourite alcoholic beverage – Punch, was stirred up in the English factory at Surat. The word itself is derived from the Hindustani word Palepunsche or Panch; meaning ‘five’ which were the number of ingredients that added up to prepare the spirit.

In an account of the English factors at Surat,in his book on ‘Early Records of the British Settlements in India’,J.Talsboy .Wheeler narrates how on Fridays ,after prayers, the President and a few friends met for the purpose of drinking to the health of their wives ,whom they had left in England.” Some made to their advantage of this meeting to get more than they could well carry away, though every man was at liberty to drink what he pleased, and to mix the arrack as he thought fit or to drink Palepuntz which is a drink consisting of aqua vitae,rose-water,juice of citrons, sugar and cinnamon.”

This recipe I give to thee,
Dear brother in the heat.
Take two of sour (lime let it be)
To one and a half of sweet,
Of old arrack pour three strong,
And add four parts of weak.
Then mix and drink. I do no wrong —
I know whereof I speak.

That the Brits found the heat and dust in India unbearable is no state secret. Besides, the locally available arrack was as traveler Bernier put it,” a drink very hot and penetrate, like the brandy made of corn in Poland.” Little wonder then, that diluting the arrack in the punch provided the high without heat to the English.” It (punch) acts as a drug, for, it cleanse the stomach, and dissipates the superfluous humours by a temperate heat particular to it.” wrote the traveler who highly approved of the decoction.

And if I get drunk, well, me money's me own
And them don't like me they can leave me alone
I'll chune me fiddle and I'll rosin me bow
And I'll be welcome wherever I go.

Another factor that made punch extremely popular was that it was affordable. As Philip Anderson states in,’The English in Western India’,”The soul of a feast which is good wine was to be found nowhere but in the Dutch and English factories. Usually imported from Shiraz or the Canaries it was available at six crowns a bottle.” On festive days, two common tables were laid out, one where the Governor and higher servants dined while the other was appointed to the English factors and writers, differing only in this, ’one had a great deal of punch and little wine and the other what wine you please, and a little punch” The finest arrack flowed in from Goa and Bengal and was best savored by diluting its strength in punch. During winter months, local toddy replaced arrack. Often, factors like Fryer carried brandy in a flask and diluted it with sherbets when invited to teetotaler dinners by the Surti moors.
What more diversion can a man desire?

Than to sit him down by an alehouse fire
Upon his knee a pretty wench
And upon the table a jug of punch

Tapi town was once tipple town and its taverns were popularly visited by English sailors. Anderson further writes,” Cases of poisoning were said to be frequent in these taverns. The rude manners of British seamen led them to use a freedom with the dark ladies. A rough kiss or an offensive piece of raillery would often result in the sailor paying penalty by his death. The black wench whose employment was to make that beloved mixture of arrack and punch would contrive in a subtle skillful manner to make the punch bowl fatal for the man who abused her, while his companions drank without the slightest injury to themselves.”

Punch was as popular with the Dutch as it was with the English. At Surat’s Dutch cemetery, there once existed a tomb with a huge punch bowl in stone on top. Made in the memory of a merry maker who wanted his friends to come drink and celebrate each time they visited his grave.

And when I'm dead and in my grave
No costly tombstone will I crave
Just lay me down in my native peat
With a jug of punch at my head and feet.

ORIGINAL SURTI OOMPH LA LA!

2011-12-04T04:36:00.000-08:00

Original Surti Oomph La La!

Hollywood’s ultimate sweetheart Marilyn Monroe once observed,” The trouble with censors is that they worry if a girl has cleavage. They ought to worry if she hasn't any.”

Bollywood’s cleavage kumaris on the other hand, have a heavier load to carry; they work hard to bust myths that women who expose skin and a little more other intimate stuff, need not know how to act as well.

As women go ‘eeeyuw!’ in disgust and men drool oh la la in lust over Vidya Balan’s dirty pictures that have been in our faces since a month now, Surti Lalas are lamenting for a different reason altogether.

Ever since Lalas became aware that Balaji Film’s blasphemous yet famous upcoming flick has been ‘inspired’ by the late southern siren Silk Smitha, speculation has been rife in our man made textile markets as to how our Art silk nee Nylon Namithaa, would have been the best choice for the role, compared to Viscose Vidya.

Earlier this year, I had interviewed Vidya and she had opened her heart sharing girlie secrets saying,” Deep down I am actually just a simple Tam –Brahm girl who loves collecting jhumkis, removes her ayurvedic kaajal with desi ghee and lounges about in comfy Juicy Couture track pants when not shooting cinema, there is nothing over ambitious about me. ”

Consider this, an actor who had worked with Silk in the past pointed out to TOI that,"Vidya lacks oomph and looks nothing like Silk. Her physical attributes don't add up. Silk was dusky, she was slightly over 5 feet 7 inches tall; her eyes were big and when she did those sexy movements of licking her thick luscious lips and rolling her eyes up in a dreamy way, she gave men something to think about.”

Surat’s Namithaa on the other hand, fits the description of Silk‘s bill to a T. Other than being equally voluptuous, like Smitha, Namita hails from a small town yet has achieved superstar status on her own gutsy chutzpah and charm. Like Silk, she has successfully played the sultry seductress and flirty Savithri among other roles, wearing knotty blouses in Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam and Kannada films. In 2009, with her first Malyalam flick Black Stallion, she became ‘the most Googled Indian Actress’

From a plain Jane girl next door in Adajan, Namita Vankawala to Namithaa Kapoor the southern superstar for whom, fans have built an exclusive temple, was a journey accomplished by flaunting vital stats along with acting assets for a long run in the industry.

Tapi town’s veteran theatre personality, Kapil Dev Shukla , who trained Namita, an MTB College of Art’s student in dramatics reminisces how sincere she was, “She was under my tutelage from 1999 to 2004 and was a keen and quick learner with great potential. After winning Miss Surat, she acted in four plays for my company. She was extremely hard working and always came prepared with her dialogues, her diction was extremely clear. The first role she enacted was in my play ‘Priya Pappa’ and you may be surprised to know she played the character of a mother in it. ”

It took a lot of convincing to get Namita’s parents to allow her to participate for the 2001 Miss India title. In her own words, she came from “a very orthodox family where girls get married at the age of 19.” Her businessman father and homemaker mother were not too happy about their daughter joining the glamour industry. That year, Celina Jaitley won the title, Namita was the fourth runner up but, secured first position in the ‘viewer’s choice ‘category. Since 2002, she shed her inhibitions and catapulted to Tolly/ Kollywood queen status. Back home, if Namithaa were to walk Surti streets, few would recognize her, leave alone worship her, but this buxom babe has always maintained that it is Surat alone that strums the strings of her heart.

Surat dished out Bollywood’s very first sizzlers- Fatma Begum, Sultana, Shahzadi and Zubeida who set box-office cash counters jingling, sent censors in a tizzy and drove viewers crazy. Like them, Namitha has made it big on her own in alien territory on the mere basis of her original Surti oomph la la.

Ghazal's Unforgettable Maestro

2011-11-19T11:48:00.000-08:00

Ghazal’s Unforgettable Maestro

It’s been a month since his unfortunate death, yet, this columnist, along with millions of other fans world over, can’t quit mourning the silence of ghazal’s soothing yet tragic voice because we relate our lives to his songs.

My earliest memories of listening to ghazals albeit without then understanding their beher (meter), are of those at parties my parents threw for their Gujarati theatre artist friends in our Bombay home. As the evening grew on, the LP would play out some soul stirring fare by Jagjit and his partner in rhyme - Chitra. Occasionally, the late and very handsome Pravin Joshi would hum along gently as one hand held a cigarette and the other hand gestured in the air while his eyes welled up. His wife, the original drama queen -Sarita Joshi ( now a television star) would go a step further and give a shot at a few light hearted graceful dance moments. The Ghazals lent their intensity to the ambiance with lilting lyrics like Nida Fazli’s,“Duniya jisse kehtey hai jaadoo ka khilona hai” and Firaq’s, “Bahut pehle se unn qadmon ki aahat jaan letey hai,tujhey ae Zindagi hum duur se pehchaan letey hai”

Later, we shifted base from Mumbai to Surat and the parents loved entertaining the locals at terrace dos (they still do, since old habits die hard).It is with much nostalgia and a very heavy heart that we reminiscence all afore heard songs now.

The magic of the maestro’s renditions lay in the fact that his compositions unpretentiously put convoluted Urdu poetry into simple harmonious tunes; which found way to the lips of the common man . So, you would have a Surti businessman swooning to the poetry of Faiz or that of the mellifluous Mirza Ghalib, totally oblivious of the ‘takhallous’, yet in perfect sync with Ghazal’s rules of 'Matla', 'Maqta', 'Beher', 'Kaafiyaa' and 'Radif' .Who could have imagined a Surti lala lisping, “unnke dekhe se jo aajaati hain muh per raunaq, woh samajhtey hai ke bimaar ka haal achha hai”, had it not been for Jagjit Singh.

It was his ear for well penned verse that made him stick to his guns when he insisted on recording as his first LP, the skillfully scripted “Baat niklegi toh duur talaq jayega,log bewajah udaasi ka sabab puchengey”, a nazm that he had chanced upon in the Urdu magazine ‘Shama’ ;even though previous efforts to record it had run out of luck, the LP version went on to become one of his greatest masterpieces. Who can forget the effervescent charm of “Teri khushbu mein basey khat mein jalaata kaise?” or the jugalbandhi of two ghazals sung as one,with genius tact – Sudarshan Faakir’s“ Ishq mein ghairratey jazbaat ney roney na diya” along with Khwaja Hyder Ali’s “ Yaar ko mainey mujhey yaarne soney na diya “

Lyrics for Singh’s first Gujarati ghazal album “Jeevan Maran Ek Chey “were verses of Gujarat’s Ghalib aka Mareez of Surat. Jagjit made sure his audience understood him well, he never missed an opportunity to take time out in between live concerts, to explain the lafz that he was going to sing, and this bonded him to his listeners’ big time. Be it Surtis at Indoor Stadium or The Royal Albert Hall, with its prim and propah crowd, none would hesitate to sing along in chorus, ’ahista,ahista’ to ,’shabe furkat kaa jaagaa huun farishton ab to sone do/ kabhii fursat mein kar lenaa hisaab ahista ahista’.

From Punjabi renditions teamed with humorous anecdotes to the tear jerker “Kagaz ki kashti ,woh baarish ka paani”, there was something for everyone .Other than his commercial cinema hits, his ghazals were for all of love’s seasons .Be it Sahir Hoshiyarpuri’s flirty,” Kaun kehta hai mohobbat ki zubaan hoti hai, yeh haqeeqat toh nigahon se bayaan hoti hai -the intoxication of new found love, to a lover’s yearning, from a jilted lover’s lament to love lost for ever.

I distinctly remember a comment by one of Surat’s popular surgeons, Dr Piyush Khanna, all starry eyed at the riverside lawns of a local five star hotel where Singh performed to an awestruck audience.” He is the real doctor alright, a doctor of broken hearts which he miraculously cures instantaneously.” Said the surgeon.

One of my favourite Jagjit – Chitra number is “Sunntey hai ke mil jaati hai hurr cheez dua se, ek roz tumhey maangke dekheyngey Khuda se.”

Alas! If only we could just ask him back from the Almighty.

Hope Less For Heritage

2011-10-11T07:38:00.000-07:00

Tombstone to kitchen slabs:

The SMC (Surat Municipal Corporation) is all set to sell Surat’s heritage-Hope Bridge as scrap. Should we be surprised? In a sheer case of neglect by the local governing body, Surat’s heritage sites seem to have slight hope of surviving. Here is another such story:
GRAVE DANGER

In 2000 years of its existence in India, the now minuscule Jewish community has never faced anti-Semitism

Holding on to their own identity; the Jews in India have Christian neighbours, Hindu colleagues and Muslim caretakers.

They celebrate with equal zest Durga Puja, Diwali, Rosh Hashanah and Christmas. Their synagogues here often resound with incantations in Hebrew echoing recitation from Talmud and Torah.

Our superstars and celebrities sport Star of David tattoos, our gourmands relish delicatessen from kosher cuisine, prime areas in metros such as Mumbai and Kolkuta are till date known after icons such as Sassoon and Ezra.

It was in Surat that the Baghdadi Jews first step foot on when they arrived in India .A prosperous merchant community from Aleppo, descendants of which migrated to Calcutta. They were cosmopolitan businessmen who extended their trading and financial network around the globe, dealing in Arabian horses, precious gemstones and rosewater.

The Encyclopedia of Jewish Diaspora‘s earliest record states,’ In 1730, Joseph Semah arrived from Baghdad to Surat and set up the Surat Synagogue here.’ When it comes to Jewish cemeteries however, Surat stands not much better off than Pakistan. As land sharks, vandals and garbage encroach upon and shatter the sanctity of their final place of rest, the last surviving tombs of Baghdadi Jews in Surat, struggle to protect their proof of life.

While the city’s English and Dutch cemeteries are now protected by the ASI and are the pride of the city’s ancient past, an 18th century Baghdadi Jewish graveyard is surprisingly, part of a private industrial estate ! Its present owners, the Asarawallas, chase off any visitors who try to enter the premises which faces the main road on Katargam.

Miscreants often climb over the 10 foot wall to use this unique burial ground as a urinal, garbage dump or sit around the graves to enjoy locally made alcohol, bottles of which they dump around this graveyard.

“In general, the cemetery is in a terrible state of neglect, this is clearly a legacy looted.” says Dr. Shalva Weil, Senior Researcher-Research Institute for Innovation in Education, Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Israel

One of the graves within is that of Moseh Tobi, buried here in 1769, he was considered an elder leader. In his book ‘A History of the Jews in Baghdad’, David Solomon Sassoon has mentioned “In the year 1769 Moses Tobi, who is styled ha-Nasi ha- Zaken [The Elder Prince] died in Surat”

In the urban mess of the city, while this heritage site is on the verge of extinction, another Jewish cemetery has already disappeared. In February 2003, Dr.Sara Manasseh from London, visited and reported the dire straits of two Jewish cemeteries in Surat, to the then Municipal Commissioner, Mr.Aloria.

Ms Manasseh’s report stated how these burial sites of historical, communal, national and archaeological importance were infested with wild pigs and garbage, urging the local governing body to take action and save them.

No action was taken, as a result of which, the Bene Israeli Kabrastan, which was in the vicinity of the SMC offices at Mugalisara, now longer exists. ”There are no more Jews left in Surat, in the absence of caretakers, their graves have disappeared too. The entire area was encroached upon by slum dwellers who converted marble tombstones into kitchen platforms.” Says Jolly Wellington, who resides in the vicinity.

“Jewish graves have beautiful cupolas and marble gravestones. But often, Jewish graveyards are not preserved by the civic authorities as part of the city’s heritage and history. In this context, the Vadodara Israeli Kabrastan is a very good example, as to how, a citizen’s initiative could preserve it”says writer Esther David.

In 2004, the Israeli Kabrastan at Nizampura in the Banyan city was saved by an awareness drive run by TOI and prominent denizens who lent support.

Can we hope to save our heritage? Or is that too much to ask from us Surtis; a business minded community whose prosperous present exists due to its glorious past.

9 Divine Prachin Garbas

2011-10-02T21:04:00.000-07:00

9 Divine Prachin Garbas

With the return of popular Prachin (traditional) Garbas this year, raas revelers within Surat’s sheris have been swinging to pious ancient prayers.

Penned centuries ago, the essence of these folklores in song format is about the miracles of Mataji in all her Nav Durga incarnations

All garba evenings commence with the Jay Aadhya Shakti Aarti , post which garbas are sung out in praise of individual goddesses

1.Padvey thee pehlu Ma nu nortu jee rey- Officially sung out as the first garba of Navratri, this song comprises of the importance of the nine nortas in accordance to the nine goddesses, describing the strength of each avatar - Śhailaputrī, Brahmachārini, Chandrakaṇṭā, Kuṣhmāṇḍā, Skandamātā, Kātyāyanī, Kālarātrī, Mahāgaurī and Siddhidātrī

2.Aadhya shakti tujne namu re bahuchara – Penned by Vallabh Dholabhai Bhatt,this is known as ‘Vallabh no garbo’. Mythology mentions that Bhatt was born deaf and dumb but was gifted the boon of Saraswati, the Goddess of knowledge and miraculously cured, after which he spent his life penning devotional songs like ‘darshan gyani aanand no garbo’. Legend also has it that Vallabh’s faith in the unseen Goddess led him to be imprisoned by the then Mughal ruler and his prayers to Aadhya Shakti Ma resulted in her promise of showing her presence to humans. The goddess appeared at Nathdwara, within the idol of Shrinathji, which is why, since then, Shrinathji, who is a male God has been adorned with a ‘nathni’ (nose ring.)

3.Maa no garbo re ramey raj ne darbar –Known as ‘Virat no garbo’ this one goes all out to describe the sheer splendour and magnitude of the Goddess’s might.

4.Maa Pava te gadh thi utarya Mahakali re ( Goddess Mahakali descended from the Pavagadh hills)

5.Tu Kali re ne kalyaani Maa ( Thou ,goddess Kali are the miracle maker )

6.Patayee raja garbadiyo koravo

7.Tu Pava ma ‘pragtani’ re Maa

These four songs sung in praise of Ma Kali Pavagadh wali are arguably the most popular and also the most controversial. While the first two speak of her divine prowess, the latter two are about the story of king Patayee of Pavagadh, notorious for having misbehaved with Kali Ma by trying to hold the helm of her sari pallu and inviting her to spend a night at his palace, which is why ,many singers belt out the lyrics as ‘Tu Pavani Patrani re Ma “ ( you are the queen of Pavagadh) which is incorrect. Rajkot’s music composer Utpal Jivrajani argues this theory and points that,”Historical granths have clearly stated that king Patayee was in fact Maa Kali’s great devotee.”

8.Vishwambhari stuti akhil vishwa-This devotional song with authentic chhand matra ek taal is phonetically pronounced in Sanskrit. The charm of this classic composition lies in the fact that it is sung out in perfection, at every home, crossroad and garba venue, even by people who do not know Sanskrit and are neither trained in music.

9.Amba aavo to ramiye Maa maney ramta nahi aavde- A friendly teaser to Amba Maa ,inviting her to teach and play garba with mere mortals, its lyrics are endearing and childlike.

It is through songs such as these that the bond between goddesses and devotees has strengthened since ages. As the baton of tradition is passed on down generations, the ‘Garbhdeep’- lamp within earthen pot stays illuminated forever even as believers soulfully belt out ,’Pawan sapata thay,toye Maa no garbo ghoomto jaay’

Layman's Quickie Dodhiyu Guide

2011-10-02T20:54:00.000-07:00

Layman’s Quickie Dodhiyu Guide

All right people, its time to sway and it don’t matter if you think you are not up to it. You need to be out there in the swirling circle as hearts and feet go scampering, trying to out do each others beats.

You have tried your hand at fencing the simple raas dandiya and returned home with a swollen finger or two. You managed to maneuver within human circles that swung to the humble two taali and three taali garbas, but now, dread dandiya season’s big bad daddy - the Dodhiyu.

A’ Dodhiyu’ in Gujarati means ‘one and a half’. It consists of a ménage-`a-troi of hop, skip and jump. One needs to hip hop, skip a beat or two and then jump in victorious delight. Often, the hands do not climax in a clap, even as one’s head sways in smooth surrender.

Invented by Amdavadis in the early eighties, the Dodhiyu is dependant on rhythm alone .It allows independent expression of one’s major body parts, as limbs, abdomen, hips, eyes and neck gracefully groove to an unchained melody. Instructors describe it as, ‘a dizzy drill which makes you forget whether you are going to or fro, while you crave for more.’

Here is a step by step breakdown to understand it a little better:
You begin in a circle facing outwards, step out with your right foot while your left hand shows the way, then step inwards half a circle with your left foot even as arms gracefully sway out in full swing, fore fingers pointing skywards, next, a sudden turn in the opposite direction,a full circle ensures that you are part of the merry go round, jerk your body as you skip a beat and take a heech before you take the next two steps forward, one inward and the other outwards to complete the routine of one permutation and reach the position you had begun from - a total of 6 moves if you please.

If you think that was complicated, remember, it’s just the first, basic step. One then upgrades to 8, 10, 12, 16, 22,26,32,36 steps which include innumerable variations of hand and footwork.

While Vadodara’s garba girls are renowned for their graceful gait in this art, in Surat, Dodhiyu is slick and spicy and has more ingredients to it than the Surti Undhiyu. This year Surtis are swaying to the Millennium Twist - a do it yourself 42 step Dodhiyu which makes the watchers swoon as revelers go in and out and all about, doing their thing in a peacock like prance.

Be warned that the Dodhiyu is extremely addictive and once you have mastered the art, nothing will manage to stop you from swinging.

Here Come The Hautesteppers......Ae Haalo

2011-10-02T20:51:00.000-07:00

In Gujarat, it is one thing to celebrate Navratri for its religious purpose and completely another to live it up for its sheer glam quotient .These nine and a half nights bring along with them the haute stepping sultans of swing, out in full splendour with bare feet, barer backs.

Backless cholis make sexy humjolis(companions)and Gujarati women hold their place in history for having invented the same. In his book’ Indian Dress: A Brief History’, author Charles Louis Fabri has noted how, ‘The first recorded examples of the choli, the bodice or blouse, are found, in the pre-Mughal miniature paintings of Gujarat, mostly Jain religious manuscript illuminations.’ Present fashion’s gravity defying tactful tailor technology not only manages to gracefully hold the shoulder boulder in place but also save face in stringy situations, even as the booty is held together by a mere fancy broach or semi precious stone. “Bollywood has a marked impression on Surat’s revelers this year. I have designed Kareena cholis with Bodygaurd movie colour themes, as well as Singham ghaghras. Surtis are swearing by locally made laces on brocade, jacquard crepes for ghaghras teamed with sheer chiffon or georgette dupattas .The look is heavy but light in weight .Only participants of competitions are sticking to traditional patch worked gear.” says Sangeeta Choksi, who designs for Surat’s suburbians.

The Jolie art behind the cholis too has undergone a new avatar. Younger girls are opting for tattoos on small of their backs and their waists, a la Deepika from Dum Maro Dum, shown off at the spot where the odhani is tucked in. Ahmedabad’s popular tattoo artist Jagruti Parmar points out that,” Youngsters want their tattoos to look permanent and so, this year, stickers and paint are passé. The in thing is translucent nail varnish and a transparent top up coat ensures that its sweat proof too. It’s easy to apply and quick to change. Girls have patterns like a base butterfly /dragonfly etched out in black ink and they come in to change the design and colour of their wings everyday, to match their outfit.” The boys meanwhile are getting temporarily inked on neck napes and behind ear lobes, to show off body art. Magnetic diamante ear studs for boys as well as push button navel studs and rings for girls are sparkling this season, and have replaced body piercing. Florescent coloured braids are making way within hairdos to match up to the magnetism of garba gear.

Unlike Vadodara’s strictly traditional garba ramzhat, jhankaar beats are set to jazz up Mallika Sherawat’s ‘Jalebi Bai’ number at commercial venues within the state. Rajkot’s Racecourse grounds are offering pure Prachin and Arvachin Garbas sung out in the praise of the nine goddesses of Navratri.” The locals have demanded pure folk songs this year. Also making a big come back are Titodas, and remix Dhunki Daklas like ‘Ae Ma khamma khamma maadi’.Daklas are played to the beat of talking drums - an instrument known as Daklu.” Says singer Utpal Jivrajani. The only modern theme here is sneakers, as twirling troupes have matched chaniya cholis and kediyu dhotis with sports shoes for better stepping comfort. It’s the season of dancing, prancing and romancing and Gujaratis are putting their finest step forward.

Stand By Me

2011-09-18T18:58:00.000-07:00

Hope For Heritage

‘When the night has come and the land is dark
And the moon is the only light we see.
No I won’t be afraid, no I won’t be afraid
Just as long as you stand, stand by me.
And darling, darling, stand by me…..’

These lyrics that were originally penned by John Lennon for The Beatles’ legendry album -‘Unsurpassed Masters’, have now, somehow found their way for a song in Ra.One-an upcoming Shah Rukh Khan flick. But these lyrics literally stand true for Surat’s good old Hope Bridge.

For, since the time it was constructed, the Hope Bridge has never failed to strongly stand by us Surtis. Since 1882, records have been maintained of flood gauges at the Hope Bridge.

Official reports in the book ‘Hydrology and water resources of India’ by Sharad K. Jain, Pushpendra K. Agarwal, Vijay P. Singh ,state how “Floods were a frequent phenomenon in Tapi river before Ukai Dam was constructed. During 1876 to 1970, danger level was crossed at the Hope Bridge, in Surat on 19 instances. This implies a frequency of once every five years. High floods were experienced during three consecutive years from 1882 to 1884.There was a very high flood in August 1944 and actually two almost similar flood peaks occurred in the same week. A heavy flood, only slightly lower than that in 1994 was experienced again in 1945. Consecutive large floods were also observed in 1958 and 1959.Heavy floods were observed in 1968, 1969 and 1970.The floods of September 1959 and August 1968 were catastrophic. The floods of 1994 and 1998 also cause considerable damage to Surat city.’

While we Surtis have recently waged a war for air connectivity, the Hope Bridge is our pioneer symbol for connectivity. In the book ‘Power Protest and Participation: Local Elites and Development in India’, author Subrata K Mitra has pointed out that,”One of the major factors for Surat’s substantial change in economy was the growth of means of transport and communication. The construction of a railway line in 1860 and the building of a bridge the Hope Bridge on the Tapti in 1877 contributed greatly to trade and commerce. Closer links with the world outside also provided greater incentives of mobility.’ How can we afford to disregard the importance of this network of metal that has helped the town strengthen its mettle?

Even as we extend our unconditional support to the Anna Hazare movement, it is Hope Bridge that connected Gandhians and played a major role in the lives of many. Bapu’s personal secretary, Mahadev Desai, the man who translated Bapu’s ‘My experiments with the truth’ to English, has a strong connection with Hope Bridge. In Desai’s biography, ’The Fire and the Rose’, it is noted how Mahadev and his friends commuted via the bridge for education.,’The three boys used to go to Surat from Adajan through the fields, on the river bank and then cross the river by Hope Bridge.Mahadev studied at Surat High School.’

In an interview with our previous Municipal Commissioner Ms. S .Aparna, I asked which her favourite place in Surat was. She answered,” I love being on the bridges. Surat appears most beautiful from them.” As denizens of this town, if you still fail to connect with Hope, try asking your parents or grandparents about it and watch their memories flow. The beauty of Tapi riverfront project is unimaginable without the ancient charm of the Hope Bridge. Envisage how someday, you could take your favourite novel and coffee mug and enjoy it on a riverside bench while you gaze out at the fabulous framework of Hope Bridge occasionally.

Earlier this year, the people of Kashmir saved their heritage bridges –Zaina Kadal (15th century) and Zero bridge (1957), the last two wooden bridges which are ‘the epitome of tradition.’ The Punular Suspension Bridge in Kerala (1877) was saved by a citizen movement. From peaceful protest walks, to candle light vigils and college student visits for causes believed in, it’s the citizen support that has helped save heritage, the world over.

You need not be a superhero to save heritage, just be you, as Hope calls out ,

'whenever you are in trouble wont you stand by me ,oh now ,now stand by me,just as long as you stand,stand by me,stand by me.

Hope For Heritage

2011-09-11T20:40:00.000-07:00

Hope for Heritage

Theodore Hope,a British civil servant in the late 1800s,was in love with Gujarat's heritage and even penned a book on Ahmedabads architecture.It is a sad commentary on todays times that the Surat Municipal Corporation is planning to sell as scrap a bridge named after him

The state government may be willing to reduce to rubbish Surat's Heritage Hope Bridge circa 1877, but theman behind the bridge-Theodore Cracraft Hope believed in appreciating and preserving Gujarat’s ancient architecture.

Hope penned the book ‘Architecture at Ahmedabad :The Capital of Goozerat’in 1866 ,for The Committee of Architectural Antiquities of Western India,under the patronage of Premchand Raichand .Dedicated to the memory of Hon. Alexander Kinloch Forbes, who inspired Hopes and awakened a “ Love for the romantic history and graceful architecture of Goozerat “ in him.

Pics:Col.Thomas Biggs.Architecture at Ahmedabad:Capital of Goozerat,1866

The book is a meticulous labour of historical and descriptive sketch of Gujarat’s dynasties and Ahmedabad's built Heritage structures. Recreated through Theodore’s words that describe the splendour of Jain architecture in Gujarat, as well as the mystic of Ahmedabad’s various Mosques with their unique mode of natural lighting; all of which, are stunningly captured within the camera of Colonel Biggs.

Hope was besotted by the tracery and niches found in Ahmedabad’s ancient architecture and describing both, the Hindu-Muslim forms of design ,he has written ,” Generally these were drawn with a free hand, and at the same time they form the most beautiful details, taken singly, to be found in Ahmedabad. All are different, not only in detail but often in character, but all are beautiful.”

Theodore considered the stone windows of Sidi Saiyed Jaalis as unsurpassed universally and has described them thus,”As examples of this class, they are perhaps unrivalled even in India. At Agra and Delhi there are some nearly as fine, but neither so extensive nor so exquisitely balanced as these. There is something wonderfully beautiful in the mode in which construction is, in these examples, combined with mere ornamentation. It is probably more like a work of nature than any other architectural detail that has yet been designed even by the best architects of Greece or the Middle Ages.”

Hope’s effort to spread awareness about the state’s history and built heritage wealth via this book has found shelf space worldwide; not only in the British Library but also at Harvard University Library and other prestigious educational institutions around the world, where historians, scholars, students of architecture and fine arts refer to it for sourcing information about Gujarat’s glorious past.

Theodore spoke five European languages when he first joined the Bombay Civil Service in 1853. Within two years, he was appointed as Inspector for Gujarat’s then newly formed Education Department. His ‘Hope Vachanmala’ (Hope’s Readers) ,a set of well known text books were prepared for use in basic schooling, translated by local scholars and found instant popularity. In his book ’ Literary Cultures in History’, author Sheldon Pollock has stated how Navalram Pandya ,a pioneering critic, found many similarities between Hope’s style of writing to that of our own great poet Narmad Shankar Dave’s in ‘Narmadgaya’. Pandya observed that,” Both their narratives were simple, native and mature and were equally loved by the educated and uneducated, unlike other pompous Sanskritized Gujarati.”

The energetic collector of Surat, Sir Theodore Cracraft Hope was among the finest of the colonial gentry and in his service of 34 years in India; he spent eight years at Surat, enhancing the city’s civic amenities. He was a favourite among locals not only because he was a model of administrative efficiency but because he heard the petitions every evening himself and chatted freely with the Surtis to sort out their issues.

During Surat's most extensive period of reform, as collector of Surat and head of its municipality, Hope reported to his seniors,"Municipal government can never be a popular government in the sense that it is liked by the people because the very reason de'etre of the Municipality is a perpetual war with those problems which are normal with the mass of the population, and are either followed or looked on with favour by too many upper classes." states Douglas E Haynes in his book ,’Rhetoric and Ritual in Colonial India.’

Today, Surat’s Hope Bridge, hopes for a little understanding of its priceless value by its Municipal governing body, as it stands proudly amidst other bridges, as the first amongst its sequels.

http://lite.epaper.timesofindia.com/mobile.aspx?article=yes&pageid=4&edlabel=TOIA&mydateHid=11-09-2011&pubname=&edname=&articleid=Ar00400&format=&publabel=TOI

Hope Pul in the year 1957 ,clicked by Shri V N Mehta,Surat.Courtesy & copyright, V N Mehta & Co

2011-09-04T20:18:00.000-07:00

A view from the bridge

2011-09-04T19:45:00.000-07:00

My beloved Surtis,
I reach out to you today in hope to bridge the gap between us and bond with you just as I did with your father, grandfather, great grandfather and his forefathers.
I was built at a time when our beautiful city had lost its importance as a port but it carried on business as usual with its au natural chutzpah and am glad to see that today, it is one of the fastest growing cities in the world.

We bridges normally tend to go unnoticed, but I am grateful to have had my share of limelight in my heydays. I have been lucky enough to be Tapi town’s first strong handshake that holds together the two shores of Tapi that never meet. The importance of my being is prevalent in the fact that we now have so many more bridges linking either banks of the Tapti, even as the river runs through them. Connecting cultures and communities of Surat and Rander, I have illuminating memories of a glorious past

I am thrilled to see fancy four wheel drives zoom on my fellow bridges. During earlier times, I had regal horse carts trotting over. They were called Victorias, Aeko and Seagram depending on the way they were styled and the handsome horses that drew them. A few had vintage box like carriages, made of teakwood with brass fittings. Just like you people go jogging in your fancy sports gear over the new bridges, many Surtis came to take a leisurely morning or evening walk in simple footwear via me, since I was then, the longest straight stretch in town. I have seen the Delhi sultanate flag and the British flag come down at the fort, even as our Tiranga was raised and unfurled proudly.

The chowpatty garden was not developed then, hence I was a hotspot for the denizens. I was visited by pretty girls with sharp eyed moms, children with parents who came to watch visarjan of Dashama and Ganesha idols that were performed from various Ovaras. There used to be a mere 15 to 20 idols at the most. And often, a holy being came resting against one of my pillars for a while. It was through me that foodies trudged towards the ‘Ponk Nagari’ at Rander to relish Sugarcane juice, Ponk and buttermilk.

I have had the privilege to have been mentioned in many books and the Bombay Gazetteers. Behramji Malabari once wrote in his book Gujarat and Gujaratis that,”There is not much to be seen in Surat, except, of course the new Hope Bridge. It is a fine strong structure and is no doubt a great convenience to the people. It cost over seven lakhs .There are many larger bridges in India; but to the stick at home Surtis their bridge is a marvel of human ingenuity. I am not surprised that some of them worship it and offer sacrifices to the presiding genius.”

As you know, I have been named after the energetic collector of Surat, Sir Theodore Cracraft Hope. He was among the finest of the colonial gentry and in his service of 34 years in India; he spent eight years at Surat, enhancing the city’s civic amenities. He was a favourite among locals not only because he was a model of administrative efficiency but because he heard the petitions every evening himself and chatted freely with the Surtis to sort out their issues .Theodore also stressed on education and his ‘Hope Vachanmala’ a set of well known text books were prepared for use in basic schooling. In his book Literary Cultures in History, Sheldon Pollock has stated that Hope’s style of writing was found similar to that of our own great poet Narmad Shankar Dave’s in ‘Narmadgaya’. Scholars observed that,” Both their narratives were simple, native and mature and were equally loved by the educated and uneducated, unlike other pompous Sanskritized Gujarati.”

I was also featured in At the Core –a book on Surat’s built heritage by the SMC –UBC this year, but yet, strangely, they seem to be ready to dismantle me. I am old, rickety and have seen better years. But, I still stand tall as I always have, through the worst floods that have devastated the city. I am living history and I do not want to die before my time. I hope to share my stories with your children and grand children, just as I did with your forefathers. I hope that you will give me a chance to do so.

Surtis are known as great businessmen, so let me lay down the brass tacks- It will cost you nothing to raise your voice for me, but in return, you will gain an ancient treasure.

Hopefully yours,
Hope Pul.

Sufi Mystics of Surat

2011-08-28T17:53:00.000-07:00

Sufi mystics of Surat

On the first day of Ramadan, this columnist was fortunate enough to visit the shrine of Hazrat Moinuddin Chishti. It is one place in the world that never fails to provide the serenity and solitude I seek, no matter how crowded it is. There is a certain magical mysticism linked with Sufi saints and believers often experience what poet Octavio Paz once best described it as:

'I did not have the imageless vision; I did not see forms whirl until they vanished in unmoving clarity, the being without substance of the Sufis. I did not drink the plenitude of the void …..I saw a blue sky and all the blues, from white to green, the spread fan of the poplars and on a pine, more air than bird, a black and white mynah. I saw the world resting on itself. I saw the appearances. And I named that half hour: The Perfection of the Finite.’

Gujarat’s belief in Sufism is at its prime in Ajmer and prevalent among the pilgrims there. The main entrance to Ajmer’s Dargah has’ Khwaja Garib Nawaaz ‘written in Gujarati text besides Urdu script. A ‘Khadim’ from Patel Gujarat house mediated my obeisance to the saint, whose legend says that he was simultaneously seen circumambulating the Khana-e-Kaaba, Mecca, during Haj, when he was actually still at Ajmer.

Upon my return, I discussed this observation with my learned friend Ayub Sopariwalla, who informed me about the Sufi saints of Surat, whose ‘roohs’ (souls) guard its people and preserve its prosperity. Curious to know more, I went around the popular shrines of Tapi Town and learnt that, since as early as the 12th century; Sufi saints began visiting and settling in Gujarat, spreading messages of peace and love within a melting pot of Hindu-Muslim cultures.

More than 400 years ago, five brothers from Bokhara traveled to Agra and then settled in Surat. Their knowledge in the field of relieving ailments seemed to have miraculous powers to provide relief and thus they gained immense popularity within the town. Till date, their Dargahs continue their mission.

Hazrat Dana Pir’s Dargah at Bade Khan Chakla, Gopipura is one of the above .Meet the mujawar here and you will get to know how the Hazrat overpowered an evil spirit and saved the locals. He further claims that,” During Urs, the lock on its gate unlocks by itself, then, the golden hand on the shrine waves down thrice and a little Dargah beside the adjacent mussafirkhana moves forward by the width of a rice grain.”

A lot of people visit here to offer miniature cloth horses as mannat against boons asked. Childless couples, upon being granted the same, donate grains against the infant’s weight. There also exists here, the grave of ‘shakkarwaley baba’ who helps tongue tied infants speak if their tongue is rubbed thrice against his tombstone. The child leaves a handful of sugar molasses in return.

Dana Pir’s other brothers Khwaja Khizr, Khwaja Didar, Khwaja Suleiman and Khwaja Madni are said to be the guards of Surat’s prosperity, residing besides the gates of the inner walled city .Visited by Muslim and Hindu believers alike, these shrines ring true the verse of the 15th century Sufi saint Shah Ali Gamdhani:
’ Haj jau hu ki Dwarka,ghar na koi dekhu paarka,sab khel pyaar ka.’

Moments in monochrome,sepia and colour.

2011-08-15T01:59:00.000-07:00

Last week, upon a friend’s recommendation, I took a peek at some amazing works by Edward Weston-the most influential photographer of the twentieth century. Since then, I keep going back to browsing his aces, only to discover new lines and deeper meanings.

Weston once pointed out that ‘Photography to the amateur is recreation; to the professional it is work and hard work too, no matter how pleasurable it may be’ these words immediately bring to mind a conversation I once had with TOI photographer Gaurang Joshi, whose pictures in the daily editions portray more than text can say and defy mundane ‘snaperazzi’. Upon asking him if a certain time was suitable for a photo shoot, Gaurangbhai smiled and replied,”Maru schedule bambawala jevu hoy chey” (my schedule is like that of a fireman, I am on the job 24/7) His enthusiasm for snapping the perfect moment comes through in his shots ,often taken from difficult aerial perspectives.

Both he and his brother Dharmesh have inherited this art from their father Chandrakant Joshi, fondly known as ‘kaka’ in most Surti households ,mister Joshi senior is a self taught photographer who has clicked Tapi town through its days of glory as well as natural calamities. As a student, he brought his first camera in 1964, a Kodak Brownie, from a Surti sailor for Rs.25.Through the years, the instruments changed from Rolleiflex, to Yashica to Nikon and even in these digital times, he has preserved a cupboard full of the old pieces which are priceless because of the memories snapped through them.
Legendary photographer Robert Capa once advised, ’If your pictures aren’t good enough, you are not close enough.’what he actually meant was not the use of longer lenses but the fact that the photographer needs to be closely involved and intimate with the subject.

Good photography comes forth from the power of observation, not how technology is applied, the proof of which lies in classic black and white photographs which have managed to capture the past in so regal a manner. In circa 1901, Surat’s oldest photo studio was founded by Vijbhukhandas .N. Mehta .Mehta worked in the accounts department of Ajmer railways .He once happened to visit a local studio there to have a photograph taken along with a friend. With interest invoked in photography since, he took training from a friend’s relative and joined a Britisher’s photo studio as a helper. Over time, he saved enough to set up one himself and deeming it inappropriate to comepete with his employer, he shifted to Surat and set up shop in a tiny space on Rajmarg.

This iconic studio is a warehouse of brilliant photographs that has captured British Royalty, India’s first politicians and connoisseurs from Mumbai and Ahmedabad in the early 20th century. The passion for photography was passed down generations and a hundred and ten years later, continues with fourth generation representatives in the form of his great grandchildren Rita, Bina and Rajesh Mehta who maintain the state record breaking sales of Canon cameras as well.

That Surat tops in camera sales within Gujarat is evident within its shutterbug community who, like Pablo Picasso feel,’ I have discovered photography.Now I can kill myself.I have nothing else to learn.’

Creative amateurs have sprung up clicking away life, nature, models, sports, industries, with their individual imagination.

The best part about photography is that even if you don’t know how to click or pose, you can be part of the picture; as Ansel Adams, the God of nature‘s best clicked splendour once said, ’There are two people in every photograph, the photographer and the viewer.’

Arrack-shun ! No more cheers !

2011-08-08T22:10:00.000-07:00

Noticed how wobbly kneed women, who walk up to Permit rooms to claim their monthly quota of alcohol allowance, look so weary and wary these days?

Even the otherwise bindass permit holders are now heard whispering,’je pataavu hoy tey aath-nav sudhi maan patavi devu, aney Dumas toh humnaa maatey bhulij javanu,whu ?’(Get it over and done with by 8-9 and forget Dumas for now)

Present prohibition may have partially dried up not only spirits but also Surat’s social glue-booze, but there was a time when Tapi town used to turn into a Cavalla by sundown, ’Surya ast toh Surti mast’.

During olden days, alcohol was distilled locally in many a different way:

In the 16th century, Sidi Ali Reis, a Turkish Admiral who embarked at Surat’s Suvali beach, observed and penned in his travelogue, Mirat-ul –Memalik (Mirror of Countries), “There is in Gujarat a tree of the palm tribe, called tari agadji (millet-tree). From its branches cups are suspended and when the cut end of a branch is placed into one of these vessels a sweet liquid, something of the nature of arrack, flows out in a continuous stream; and this fluid, by exposure to the heat of the sun, presently changes into a most wonderful wine.”

Being a central port for unilateral trade, Surat had sailors from all over the world wading in. The ever busy Surti beach-Swally hole where they embarked was also their watering hole. Spirits were locally made here from fennel seeds, tadi and opium .The entire process of how Surtis prepared ‘niro’ and ‘tadi’, is picturesquely described by J.Ovington in his book”A Voyage To Suratt’

In 1632 A.D., Peter Mundy, European traveler was surprised to discover how in opium addicts seeped poppy husks and seeds in water to produce an alcoholic beverage called ‘poste’, drinkers of which were called’ postees’, while those who prepared drinks from Cannibes-bhaang were called ‘bhaangees’. Many Parsis grew toddy and opium in large amounts; although it was otherwise officially banned, trading it to China was legally allowed.

When Parsis sailed into Gujarat, most of them had a still (tiny distillery) in their homes for procuring ‘pehli dharno, beeji dhar no’ (first outflow, second outflow). They prepared an intoxicating drink from Mahuda flowers available locally; the drink was said to be a digestive, with cooling properties especially during the summers. For winters, special liquor was made from fermented raisins and dates. Also, Port wine is a much loved appetizer amongst Parsi women who prepare the same at home. They consume it differently, by adding a shot of lime to a peg of the fortified liquid.

It was only after the British came into Surat’, that Scotch and beer were introduced to the town’s elite. Beer became a lunchtime drink and Scotch was relished before dinner by the elite. The locals stuck to local brews. In Douglas E Haynes’, Rhetoric and Ritual in Colonial India,’it is mentioned how,” alcohol was present within the moral code of Surat’s Ghachi/ Khatri/Gola community.”

Amongst the earliest responsibilities that Surat’s first Municipalty carried out in 1852, were tasks like lighting and cleaning the streets, expenses of which were met by levying a surcharge on alcohol production at the local distillery.

Douglas has also well documented how the ban on alcohol first began within Surat. In 1906, headmen of the Khatri and Gola communities made’ bandobast’ against the consumption of alcohol as an enforcement of moral codes by threat of social sanction.

Around 1911, social educators like Dayalji and Kunvarji who ran local boarding schools, founded journals that urged Anavil and Kanbi communities to abstain from ‘corrupt customs’ like the consumption of alcohol.

The Gandhian campaign of antiliquor was launched in full swing serving the dual purpose of social purification as well as that of harming Government revenue which greatly depended upon the sale of liquor shop contracts and sales tax on alcohol .In 1921, about 175 picketers marched to the collectorate pleading bidders of liquor shop contracts to,’ Give up sinful money and depend on money that is pure.’

This was perhaps, the moment when the first foundation of prohibition was laid in Surat.

Interpreter of Surti Maladies

2011-08-03T21:39:00.000-07:00

INTERPRETER OF SURTI MALADIES

Now covered under the umbrella of health insurance policies, ancient medicinal recipes of Ayurveda and Unani no longer remain crushed and confined between pestles and mortars.

Known to be an extremely effective alternate option to allopathy, for treatment of chronic illnesses such as spondylitis, arthritis and epilepsy, along with other physical grievances big and small, these naturally derived cures claim to have no harmful side effects.

While Ayurveda is native to India, the term Unani (pronounced Yunani) is the Arabic spelling of Ionian, the islands of Greece.

A study by Subhuti Dharmananda, Ph.D., Director, Institute for Traditional Medicine, Portland, Oregon, traces how ‘Unani owes its origin to the Greek physician Hippocrates (460-377 B.C.) Based on the original Greek concept of balancing the four body humors and resulting Unani systems involve the four elements: earth, air, water, and fire; along with four natures: cold, hot, wet, and dry; and four humors: blood (which is hot/wet), phlegm (cold/wet), yellow bile (hot/dry) and black bile (cold/dry).’

The Unani system is known as Hikmat or Unani-Tibb. Its medical practitioners are called Hakims. Here is the story of how a pioneer Hakeem of Surat went on to establish its ‘most effective pharmacy’ –Hakeem Chi Chi:

Once upon a time, there lived in Surat, a talented locksmith. Offering his services door to door, within the old walled city, he went about repairing and replicating keys, for a hard earned living. This gentleman named Sheikh Mohammad, was once asked to make a key for the ‘tijori’ (safe) of the then Nawab of Sachin .While on the job there, he chanced to meet a Hakeem from Junagadh who was on visit at the palace ,for ‘ilaaj’ (treatment) of an ailment that troubled the Nawab.

Sheikh Mohammad’s knowledge of ‘jadi booti’ (medicinal herbs) surprised the Hakeem who then offered to train him with a course in the medicinal field, at Junagadh.Since the Surti key maker was too poor to afford the travel fare to Junagadh, he set out on foot towards it, letting his profession as a key maker pay for his journey, as he trudged from one town to another, before finally reaching his destination, that opened doors to a new world.

He returned to Tapi town as Hakeem Sheikh Mohammed and set up a desi dawa khana (clinic) at Ranitalao. His knowledge teamed with knack benefited patients immensely and he quickly gained popularity as well as publicity by word of mouth. He had a nasal voice which squeaked a bit due to which, locals lovingly nicknamed him ‘Hakeem Chi Chi’, the clinic and name continued, ever since. His son educated at the Aligarh University for a degree in Unani; his grand son was appointed advisor at the Kasturba Memorial Trust.

The legend lives on, functioning in full form with hundreds of naturally derived in-house products. Since 79 years, the pharmacy has stood firm ground as the shop around the corner of Chakkapir street, at Rani Talao.“ We have been at this very place since 1932.We do not and will not have any other branches because we want to maintain the quality set up by our forefathers. We also cater to NRI customers via their relatives who reside in Surat and around the surrounding villages here. Our original surname was Navsariwala; our profession provided the present last name”, says Mohammad Qasim Hakeem, who represents the fifth generation of the lineage.

His father, Abdul. Hakim .Hakeem sits on the loft above, reading the trembling nerves of patients who have lined up to be cured. It is here that ageing men, pregnant women, insomniac professionals and colic children come for cures that are derived from exotic botanical ingredients such as Licorice roots, Peppermint, Malabar nuts, Rhubarb and other such herbs, sourced from all around India. Downstairs, a troop of educated young staff , hands out prescribed cures for allergies, asthma, eczema and caters to other demands such as beauty products, naturally extracted sherbets, top quality khajoor (red dates) etc.

Within the heart of city, one can catch the whiff of fresh gulabjal, sukhadd, amla, jojoba along with henna and sesame amongst other aromas from this treasure trove that is the sum of ancient herbal wisdom, which thrives and throbs steadily along with the pulse of Surat city.

Hello,Saheb ? Myself Surti calling

2011-07-24T21:15:00.000-07:00

Within a month since his appointment as the commissioner of police, Tapi town’s honourable top cop has become the talk of the town; oft seen, heard and most definitely feared by miscreants, all around the city of Surat.

Felicitated at a function by leading lalas from industries of textile and diamonds, he was seen warmly welcomed by Surat’s ‘who is who’. Famous businessmen were requested, while lesser known representatives were urged by organizers to come forward for ‘saheb nu samman’, the soul they now look up to for protection from land grabbing bullies and ill meaning elements who wish to hinder their business. Further more, lalas posted the audio recording of the event on You Tube under the title ‘Welcome and Falicitate Shri Rakesh Asthana”, spelling it so, to prove its Surti authenticity.

At the helm of the helmet issue, the commissioner of police was also heard on local FM and at club meets, pointing out to educated adult Surtis, basic and compulsory traffic rules. Commuters who had till date paid little attention to safety details are now paying up fines that amount to lakhs of rupees.

Shady characters meanwhile have gone under the mattresses instead of ‘going to the mattresses’, a la Godfather style. They seem to have vamoosed from the scene, for the time being, knowing only too well that the commissioner, who has won the President’s medal for distinguished service, surely means business when he has promised to ‘legally crackdown on anti-social elements’.

The layman Surti however, has been most impressed with the fact that even as saheb promised peace for prosperity and citizen-police partnership, he also publicly shared his mobile number last week, asking Surtis to fear nobody and call him directly, in case they get tepid response on terror and other issues, from local police stations.

Empowered by having saheb’s number in the phone book, a few claimed to have set up a

“CCC”-Concerned citizen’s committee.

Upon being invited to their first ever meeting last Saturday, curiosity got the better of this columnist to find out what this actually was all about.

A fairly large amount of people had turned up at the designated venue for discussion. Everybody seemed to be speaking all at once.

‘I want to request for a fixed time table for traffic fines. Monday for helmets, Tuesday for seat belts, Wednesday for speed limits etc.’suggested a Citylight homemaker.

‘I simply want to thank him for allowing us to wear helmets designed like the Gladiator head dress; it makes me feel like Russell Crow ‘smiled a dentist from Sagrampura.

While bhaiyajis from Bihar who are vegetable vendors around Parle Point pointed out that they were willingly going to move their carts away “Kyunki bade saheb ne toh hamaarey Laloo Prasad ji ke raj mein fodder kand ka bhi parda farsh kar diya thaa toh hum kya cheez hai .“

The migrant bhabhijis from Kolkuta are impressed for once because “Inhoney kaha thaa ke saheb wohi officer hai jinhoney hamarey West Bengal mein Purulia arms drop case investigate kiya thaa.”

Meanwhile, popular senior citizens Mr.Magan Batla and aunty Batli were on a conference call via satellite, from Daman. ‘As you all know, we are tadipar these days. We are calling over the concern of the disappearance of our niece –Narangi and nephew-Pehli Dharno.They were last seen brewing up by the Tapi, we hope they are safe since they are innocent locals who mean no harm.”

“ Missed call maru ?”

Surti socialites had a more personal agenda, ‘I love men in uniform. All I want to know is which ringtone does his caller tune have. Do you know? Is it Dabangg? ‘

‘I found his name on FB but it turned out to be someone else.’

‘I like the idea of CCTV, am looking forward to see and be seen ‘

A gentleman from Kotsafil road had great concern over cattle which casually strolls around that area,”Aaprey toh koini beek lagtee nathi,whu ? Aaprey toh bindaas puchvanu chey ke bhai aa badha nu whu karvanu chey ? Punn saheb ne aapri bhasha nai hamjan parey’

“This is exactly why we have invited you’, said the CCC president, as all heads turned towards me ,”Can you call him and forward all of our concerns? ”he asked.

Needless to say, this cat scampered from the meet before further curiosity killed it.

Road trip to Surat in the 17th century

2011-07-11T07:22:00.000-07:00

How Thomas Coryate walked from England to Surat.

The state highway and NH 8 was set ablaze with star power last week. Keeping up with its ‘La Tomatino’ theme, the trendy team of the promising upcoming flick ‘Zindagi Na Mileygi Dobara’ painted Tapi town and other prime cities of Gujarat red. The superstars of present times made the journey short and sweet as they zoomed in and out on their fancy four wheel drives. Needless to say, by setting an example for freedom and adventure which is the theme of the movie, this innovative cinema promotion style will surely spur Surtis into taking road trips on paths less traveled.

While many travelers have sailed into Surat as well as driven in as a first, one of the most interesting characters to have come in stayed here for good, which is because he unfortunately died on Surat’s shore. He holds his place in history because of the fact that he began his journey from England to India entirely on foot. Till this date, a stone tablet etched with his shoes is displayed on the walls of the Somerset town that he hailed from.

Thomas Coryate was born in Odecombe, England. The Englishmen remember him as the court jester employed by Prince Henry, son of James I , he also holds the honour of introducing the table fork to England .Amongst many other nicknames that he acquired ,’Furcifer’ fork bearer rascal is one amongst the most popular.

Coryate studied at the Winchester College and later at Gloucester, Oxford. His passion for travel which he best preferred on foot began by a tour of Europe during which he penned “Coryate’s crudities’ an Odecombian buffet of witty verse from all around the continent. He was popular and well known through Europe for his adventures and book alike, although scholars often took jibes at his works and character. John Taylor described him as:

’ His head was a large pounding tub of phrases, whence men would pick delights as boys pick diseases, admired learning took his heads possession and turned his wit a wandering in progression’

With his head that has been described to look like an inverted sugar loaf, this learned man who could speak at least 8 different languages including Latin, Greek, Persian, Hindustani amongst others was known as ‘The eccentric fakir’ in India because he was known to climb up minarets of mosques and shout back at priests who called out the azaan .Coryate with his single soul, soles and shirt walked all the way from England to Greece to the Mediterranean to Persia and finally to India ,out of curiosity and to present himself before the great Mughal Emporer – Jehangir.

In Multan, Lahore, he upset many religious believers when he threw a ruckus outside the prime mosque of worship .Later, this leg stretcher visited Ajmer, Pushkar, Agra, and Haridwar and also presented his thoughts before Jehangir in Persian and English. He sent back images of himself riding an elephant in India of which historians have commented upon,’ His wit is so huge nought but an elephant could carry him’

This contemporary nomad unfortunately took ill and as he sought passage to return home, the end of his versatile and weary journey brought him to Surat. It was here that he hoped to sail home via a ship from Suvali.

But alas! That was not to be.

This long strider arrived in Surat on the 13th of November in 1617 and died of dysentery in December that year on the shores of Tapi. Literates believe that the flux of his poor health was further deteriorated by the consumption of ‘sack’ or Elizabethan alcohol which he took a shot at from a ship that had sailed in from England. Amongst his last known words were,’ Sack, sack, is there any such thing as sack? I pray give me some’

Coryate’s grave is believed to have been silted with the Suvali shore .A field of bones that lie in a graveyard long lost beneath its sands. Till date, though, this ‘fool of quality’ is remembered by many an English scholar , described as:

‘He was the imp, whilst he on earth survived, from whom this West world’s pastimes were derived; He was in city, country, field and court. The well of dry trimmed jests, the pump of sport.’

The problem with D K Bose

2011-07-08T19:32:00.000-07:00

WHAT SURTIS SWEAR BY

I don’t know about you but I certainly do not happen to find any fun in the pun within the crude Hindi slang used for female genitalia, which forms the lyrics of a present popular song. It makes me cringe and reach out for a pair of noise canceling ear muffs - Quiet Comfort by Bose.

While Dada Kondke had named his movie after a similar pun in the 1900’s, it was considered C grade cinema, one meant for an audience of the same category. It certainly wasn’t in a catchy song form that would be played day in and night out on the radio or in movie trailers which would be run during intervals in theatres through the country,or conveniently slotted between prime time programmes on national television and replayed in between news streams.The 'A' certificate for the cinema means nothing when you are already bantering around whats banned for younger ears .

‘What’s new?’ you may question, ’aren’t we Surtis surrounded by profanity? ‘Yes, but till this date we did not have backpack toting toddlers singing it out loud, did we?

Author John Mc Whorter who penned ‘The Power of Babel’ once pointed out that,’Young children will memorize the illicit inventory long before they can grasp its sense.’ The scurrilous jest in Delhi Belly literally justifies the existence of potty mouths.

An entertainment licensee cannot justify the exploitation of profanity amongst the youth to set cash counters jingling. An ‘A’ certificate will not stop children from smaller towns like Surat casually sauntering in to catch the film at the nearest theatre screening the same.That exactly,Ms Kiran Rao ,is what's wrong with D K Bose and such other theories. Even as an audience cheers out loud and claps to the usage of brazenly vulgar words, young minds are easily influenced in repeating what they think is a ‘kewl conversation.’ Remember, Kareena Kapoor in so called family entertainers like ‘Jab We Met’ and ‘Golmaal’ got max audience appreciation for scenes in which she let her mouth loose with incomplete expletives.

Subjected to foul language that is not alien to them in day to day life, teenagers have interpreted slang to suit their expressions. A normal text SMS amongst teens these days will have words like ‘meri maar di’, ’fatt gayee’,’thok diya’, ‘uski bajaa di’,’vaat laga di” along with much abused four letter English words, very casually compiled within sentences .Where has this cult come from ? Is it just the movies?

Surtis swear by profanity and it is an integral part of their trading language. Migrants are often aghast at how smoothly a sentence flows from the mouths of Surti lalas, laced along with unmentionable body parts. Both happiness and anger alike are expressed with incestuous remarks with strong hints of Freud’s theory of an Oedipus complex.

While Surat’s Ghachis, Golas, Khatris, Kolis, Parsis are known for the sharp tongued sputter of their gutter tongue, the origin of these words are not essentially Gujarati. Upon carefully noticing the word formation of regularly used cuss words which are coarsely audacious, you will discover that their origin is from various languages like Arabic, Persian, and Hindustani, presumably brought into the ancient port town by the traders who sailed in. Speaking of whom, did the Brits bring in along with colonial rule, gross language too?

Queen Elizabeth I was speculated to be a robust swearer. The evolution of profanity in the English language is cited by scholars as somewhere around the 16th century. The word Profane has Latin roots and it means ‘outside of the church’, hence blasphemous. In fact well known authors like Geoffrey Chaucer in Canterbury Tales and world’s most popular playwright William Shakespeare are known to have widely used religious and moral curses within their texts (which were often censored). They were words like ‘God’s blessing on your beard’ from Love’s labour lost, or ‘By God’s (blest) mother’ from Henry.

The word ‘ass’ was first published as a swear word in the Oxford English Dictionary way back in 1955 and since then, vituperative words seem to have had no looking back, so to say.

What’s sad to hear is one of the most offensive cuss words around the world being touted as a youth anthem in our nation, in the name of being a trendy laugh! Now ,that certainly is not funny.

Tendulcar-Ferrari Ki Sawaari in Surat

2011-06-26T21:21:00.000-07:00

TENDULCAR-Ferrari Ki Sawaari-Wankhede to Varachha

Last night this columnist dreamt of penning a book- Tendulcar in Tapi Town.
Since the said journal would need first hand information, a meeting with Surat’s new star was mandatory. Here are some excerpts of a tete-a tete with India’s now most famous four wheeler.

Q. How does it feel to be a super car?

T. “Oh! I am exhilarated! I am on top of the world! First my owner was the star, now, I am it. I hope to run for as many kilometers and more, than the legend scored.

Q. You have had a long and famous journey

T “Yes, Italy to India has been a long run. Having been to the Fiat- Ferrari firm born, I was bound to be in news, but amongst my entire sibling fraternity I managed to steal the show. I mean, I was gifted ,presented by the best racer in the world -Schumacher to the best batsman in the universe- Sachin, when he equaled Sir Don Bradman’s record.

Q. There have been many controversies, regarding import duty, transit, rumours of having been stolen on April Fool’s day 2010, once a gift, now a deal …….

T .Ah! Yes, but then, what good is it to be young and famous and not have tongues wag? Its part of the popularity perks and jerks. Anyway’s its all in the past now. Bene grazie!

Q. You need special service and even special fuel to run.

T. Yes, I had my signature special fuel, custom made especially for the master blaster, by Bharat Petroleum .The No.97 high Octane petrol was produced at the company’s Mumbai refinery. It costs 50 % higher than normal petrol .I don’t think it will be locally available here, so I am not too sure how I will manage in future, maybe they will bring it in or I will visit Mumbai for refills.

Q.How do you like your new home?

T. Oh! I am made to feel like a goddess. The garage was redecorated especially for me, people in town seem to worship the roads I vroom on and my owner is a soft gentle soul. I thought my boss’s name was Jayesh Desai, but upon reaching here I realized it’s actually Jayessbhai-everyone here calls him that.

Q.What do you miss about your old home?

T.A whole load of things, of course. I mean it’s a different ball game to be parked at La Mer.Apart from Signor Sachin’s family and Kambli sir who loved me; I miss my friends the most. I sometimes had A .Bacchan’s Bentley for company and visiting Antilia to gossip with M .Ambani’s Maybach and other fleet was too much fun. We had this high profile gang of first hand, original cars, unlike the down market stolen goods that go around these days.

Q.How do you find Surat?

T. Bellissima ! Mamma Mia! Che belle ragazze! Che rumore!Magari ! But, If only I also understood what they speak……. Che macello! They whistle and hoot, record me on mms, they call out ‘Watt a booty!’,’ Aaila! Sachin ni gaari lai aavyo bhaila! “ooooh posu bhagat !”, I mean c’mon Suvvia!Vedi ni non dire sciocchezze!

Q.I meant the roads.

T.Oh! The roads here are wider with less bumper to bumper traffic than Mumbai.But the bumps are too high for my bottom and I need to be carefully maneuvered. I love the flyovers and am really looking forward to zooming on the Vadodra and Ahmedabad Expressway to tap my potential, prove my road worthiness.

Q.So, no hard feelings?

T. None whatsoever! I mean in an age when most second hand cars are sold for less than half their price, I was paid for twice my original amount, inspite of being FOC! My new owner and Tapi town made National news and front page material. Amitabh Bachhan sold one of his BMW’s last year but like all other celebrity sales, it was a silent one.Besides,I hear my paint and connecting engine blocks for fuel supply are manufactured in Gujarat,so in a way, this is homecoming. After years, am getting the publicity of my heydays.

Q. Will you miss the Tendulkars?

T. Always. I was their dream car, now they have someone new. But we Italians believe that true love is rare and true friendship even rarer. Since I was traded for friendship, all is fair.

Weekday options for Sunday Papas

2011-06-22T20:40:00.000-07:00

For all busy dads ,around the world

With the nostalgia of one more Father’s Day now behind us, Surti Lalas, whose business schedules have converted them into Sunday papas have reached to a tear jerking conclusion, resonating with the adage that they inherited from their fathers-
’ God gave us money but not time.’

Present circumstance and stress of an overworked and underpaid life make sure that children see their dads only on Sundays, when those precious few hours are mostly spent in dining out with friends or catching up on the latest flick.

Conversation is the key word while raising a child. We live in an age where the generation gap has been bridged, but communication gap within families has widened more than ever before.
In their book ‘Adolescence: The Survival Guide for Parents and Teenagers’, authors Elizabeth Fenwick and Dr.Tony Smith have pointed out that, "Although young children usually exchange thoughts and feelings quite easily, adolescents are not often so communicative. It takes a real effort to keep the channels of communication open with someone who is apparently determined to shut you out and to be as monosyllabic as possible. But it's essential to keep talking-and keep listening-if you are to survive your children's adolescence intact. If you can manage it, and are still on speaking terms with your adolescents by the time they reach their late teens, you'll find they may actually want to talk to you, and it's once again rewarding to have conversations with them."
Here are some fun ways to let conversation sneak in between your child and you, while you spend an hour extra with them, within your busy schedule.
Drive your child to school occasionally, make the effort to wake up early, share breakfast, drop your child to school .Chat up about friends, teachers and subjects, discuss fun incidents from your school days. Try and attend the parent teacher meeting whenever you are in town, learn first hand about your kid’s advantages and shortcomings to help understand her/him better.

Catch up over a surprise lunch or dessert .Play scrabble or chess at coffee shops .Plan a picnic .Discuss food preference with them. Explain cuisines or learn what they know about it, with interest. Your child probably knows the best thin crust pizza combo in town and can spell more pasta names than you. Pay full attention when your child speaks; stop doing everything else at that moment.

Visit your child’s extra curricular activity class. Whether its sports, music, art or dance, take interest, appreciate, if possible participate or have your kids teach you the technique they are skilled in. Children are friends with people who perform their favourite activities with them. . Learn to play ‘Super Mario’/ ‘Angry Birds’, on their gadget. Compete in healthy fashion.

Let your children visit your workplace for an hour or two. Treat them as adults as they watch how you spend your day at work. Ask for suggestions to know their point of view. Make them feel important. Show respect through both your language and demeanor. Don’t start giving advice when your child is asking you to listen. Don’t talk or do other things. Listen. End the conversation when your child is ready to do so, not when you are.

Children often send out the same message in different ways, when they are not understood.’ Remember that 70 to 80 percent of all communication is nonverbal. If you truly have an empathetic heart, you will always be reading the nonverbal cues.’ says Stephen R. Covey in The 7 Habits of Highly Effective Families. Read your child’s facial expressions, body language and non verbal clues. Understand that your child will not agree with everything you say.Respond, don’t react.

Time is your most precious possession and it’s all that your child needs.

Dear dad,on Father's Day

2011-06-19T05:45:00.000-07:00

Dearest papa,

I know this letter comes as a surprise to you, it’s my first. It would be the easiest thing for me to come meet you or speak on the phone. But, I know I will choke on words that will get in the way.

We have never really had dad-kid talks, you and I, we always communicated via mom.

Today, as my toddler and teen sit down scribbling a Father’s day card for theirs, I realize I never ever made the effort to tell you anything. We seemed to always say it best by saying nothing at all to each other.

While mom was omnipresent through the growing years, you were a Sunday papa.

You never attended any sports day or annual function or elocution contests which we participated in, you were busy, slogging to make sure that we went to the best school, read the best books meant for our age, swam in the best pool in town and received the best coaching when it came to dance and sports.

You don’t feature in any of our birthday pics, even the ones that have distant relatives; it’s only now that I realize you were the one clicking them.

I know for a fact that grand dad and you looked in opposite directions, you never had a chance to live your childhood, but you ensured we had ours. I find it easy to choose the right reads and toys for my children because, irrelevant to the monthly budget, as soon as Scrabble, Monopoly, Rubik’s cube or the latest editions of Amar Chitra Katha, Enid Blyton and Asterix hit the market stands, you made certain they found place in our home.

Although you spent years eating at canteens, we relished fine dining and developed taste buds to appreciate cuisine from around the world. From five star restaurants to hole in the wall joints that Busy bee later recommended too, you always knew the hotspots of food around town. I remember how you hired one of the then best chef’s in town for a day for our introduction to authentic Chinese cuisine; from entrée to dessert. I remember turning my nose up at it then and how much I savour it now. Way back in the 70’s Tabasco’s zing, Choux pastry and Wasabi were not alien words for us.

I teach my toddler phonics, alphabets and his first words from ‘My First Golden Dictionary’ which you bought when I was 4, it is still the best available even now, when I am 40.As I protectively commute with my teenager everywhere, I remember how you taught us to travel independently via air or railways, in a safer world .

In spite of being extremely possessive about your cars, you generously let your vintage Austin be converted into our school taxi, so that we could commute safely and in style. We always strutted in trendy stuff from head to toe even though kid’s fashion wasn’t a term used in India.

I remember you returning from business tours around the world, carrying cultural curios so that we could learn a little more about the countries .I remember you gently but firmly coaxing us to lend a ear to classical music along side renditions of Khusrau and Boney M so that we refined our taste in fine tuning. I remember watching The Sound of Music when it was not locally available. How you made it mandatory that we met Mumbai’s finest theatre artists and painters par excellence and watched them in action.

As I stress over the future of my kids, worrying about their education, friends, gizmos, habits, I realize how easily ma and you handled the three of us, never once letting us feel the worldly pressures you must have had. My own impatience makes me now rationalize your occasional angry outbursts.

With all our individual success in a life that you allowed us to choose for ourselves, we might not have been the best kids, but, just by being yourself, you are the greatest dad in the world.

When I see you clown around with your grand children today, I see, given a chance, what great buddies we could have been. I love you dad, I always did.

A huge hug,
Your rebel without a cause.

Which college ? What course?

2011-06-12T21:29:00.000-07:00

Dear prospective undergrads,
Ssup duddettes and dudes? Now that da celebrations of ur kewl results r over, its tym 4 u to pull up ur socks nd take da next step fwd.

You are done with the 3 R’s-reading, writing and arithmetic at school and now its time for the 3 C’s-vis a vis-college, course, career (not chicklits, cars and clothes, stupid!)

I know and I know that you know, that scoring a distinction does not guarantee desired results in your preferred college. It may have got you goodies from your mama in Mumbai and blessings from masi in Manhattan; even a set of swanky wheels as promised by papa, while mom ensured that all the staff had stuffed their ‘muh meetha’ with malai pedas; but, making it to the merit list of your next alma mater is a different ball game of sorts.

It is also not as easy a task as the one you faced getting through in the best kindergarten, all you had to do then was gurgle and drool while parents took care of the rest of the stuff. Now, you are on your own, cut offs for the country’s top colleges exist and end between 97 % to 95%! No matter whom your big daddy knows, how well, will be good enough to get you through that!

So, there will be a whole load of things you will need to consider. Awright! V need to stroll down memory lane here 4 a moment, when your Pa and Ma were growing up (or so they thought). There was just one decision to make- Science/Commerce/Arts, that done, the path further was paved for them to follow.You, darlings, have the new mantra of gen nexters-‘Options’-career counseling, aptitude tests ,interviews, choices, unending ones at that, to consider and concentrate on, then choose. Confused? Don’t worry, s**t happens!

Without draining your brain, here is ‘Admissions made easy’ in lingo that u dig:

A/S/L-The age of the institution/ strength of its students, co-ed or otherwise and where it is located, matters.

Status-This will have to include, how prestigious the college is and whether it is government recognized or not. (If you have a really rich dad, UGC won’t matter, you could fly to foreign shores for post grad)

FB-Faculty and board members are a very important aspect of ur future mould, be aware of what u expect and should accept.

FYI-If the college notice board provides little or no information, seek the administrative officer’s advise, she /he is meant to be there for you.

CERTI- Be certain to photocopy and attest all your certificates, recommendation letters, exam results, birth certificate. Make separate sets of the same as per applications.

PICS- Photographs on college forms are neither meant to be dowdy zones nor glamour pads, stick to looking smart and sober.

KIT-Keep in touch online with institutions u plan to apply for cut offs, updates, merits.

IDK-Don’t be shy to say ‘I don’t know’, ask 4 all info about the course u wish to pursue.

BOB-Visit the college library and info resources, make sure they don’t believe in buy your own books scenario. Look for a strong and stable think tank back up.

ECA-The quota for extracurricular activity does not include bathroom singers or booty shakers, make sure you are competent enough to represent your college.

WTF-What the food situation in the college canteen is, will matter a lot if you plan to be its resident Taste it, lest it makes you go ‘what the eff ’ ,later.

GF/BF-The network of friends you make now will remain life long, check out college crowd carefully.

LOL-Remember important messages from movies like 3 Idiots, Dil, dosti etc and F.A.L.T.U. Enjoy the best years of your life and all will be well. Just Chillax.

Loadsa luv n luck,
Been der, dn dat.

Alvida McBull Fida

2011-06-09T19:02:00.000-07:00

Why M F Husain will live forever

‘Chund tasveerey butaan chund haseenoki khatut, baad marne ke mere gharse yeh samaan nikla’
(A few photographs and some love letters from my sweethearts is all that was found from my home after I died.)

Ghalib’s above mentioned couplet was among M F Husian’s favourites and now reads relevant, in his death. While life ended for him in exile, the painter who was perceived as India’s Picasso and awarded with highest honours like the Padmashree, Padma Bhushan and Padma Vibhushan, has left behind a vacuum in the art world that will never be reclaimed.

“He was a wonderful human being and I have yet to meet another of his caliber in my life. We had a long association. In 1999, during the production of Gajagamini, he was short of finances and I volunteered to work out the matter for him, he in turn, gave me some of the finest pieces of work. He loved sipping chai over which we shared fond memories. I was waiting for him to return to Dubai, was meaning to meet him soon, but alas!” reminisces Praful Shah, a connoisseur of Husain’s art and MD of Garden Silk Mills. The Garden Art Gallery in Surat was graded as one of the country’s finest by the artist when he had come to inaugurate it.Husain painted a scene from his childhood on a black canvas, holding the audience enthralled.

“Husain saab was a great philosopher, when he met my father and me, it was an absolutely unbelievable experience for us. My father expressed this thought aloud to which Husain saab replied, ’All of us build our individual karma, what goes around comes around .Our Karma pinds were destined to meet and hence, have we.” says VNSGU Professor of Art, Rajarshi Smart.

Surat’s renowned artist, late Jagdeep Smart, translated M F Husain’s biography in Gujarati – ‘Dadano Dangoro Lidho, Tene Toh Mein Ghodo Kidho’, named after a popular Gujarati limerick, it was co published in 2004 by Archer, Ahmedabad.

Written in Gujarati text to bring out nuances of, ‘Husain –Shailee’, Maqbool’s childhood, Husain’s artistry, Mc’s jovialness, Bull’s hidden grief and aggression (Husain often signed works as Mc Bull), M .F. Husain’s popularity and Fida’s volcanic love rush, translator Smart points out to the reader that he left intact Husain’s sentence formation, wordplay, Urdu verse so that the essence of the artist could flow to the readers.

Husain’s address to his own childhood reads: ‘O mara dost, mara balpun, taney aapna dadana ordani ae baari yaad chey ? Jemathi hu baharni duniyani nani nani vaarta o joya karta hata.Aapney joyu ghanu,janyu ochu’- O my friend,my childhood,do you remember that window in our grandfather’s room? From which we looked out at little itsy bitsy stories. We saw a lot, learnt little.’

Capturing Maqbool’s picturesque memory of ‘An earthen pot on a cot under the roof from which a silent lantern hangs ,a book below the pillow opened to page fourteen,a trunk of tin with two pairs of clothes,a dirty coloured blue shirt of a man,a broken chain from a bicycle,a velvety orange scarf,bamboo flute and a ring wrapped in fuchsia kite paper ’, to quoting Fida’s philosophy of, ’Modern art being a joyful labyrinthine of the fact that it gives the onlooker the right to perceive it with his own view and nature. Modern art’s nature is not royal but democratic. It looks like royalty; its lines proclaim self respect and its colours are luminous with pride.’

The book encases the very essence of Husain ,sketching out the artist’s meteoric rise from painting cinema hoardings to producing art cinema featuring his muse,Bollywood’s queen bee Madhuri Dixit in whom he envisioned his mother, his museum at Ahmedabad-Ahmedabad ni Gufa.While no one in the world can paint horses better than Husain,his favourite ride were bicycles.His cycle stuti philosophy read thus-’A cycle’s seat is a man’s head, handles two hands, pedals are feet, the boy (himself) sits on the carrier behind ,riding it seems as if the entire cycle is in his lap, or the boy is in the lap of the cycle. It can’t be said who is caring for whom cuddling the other in his lap.’

It enlightens the reader in the artists own words, about humble beginnings within Indore’s ‘naalawalu makaan’,to the cheeky ‘Bapuni shaadi ma beto diwaano’,from the nostalgic ’Dadanu achkan’ to joy filled ‘Vadodrani boarding school’ where his teacher helped him enact a Persian couplet-

‘Kasbe kamaalkun ki azeezat jahaan shavi/Kasbe kamaal niyarjad azeezey mann’-

‘One who has cultivated proficiency in arts and crafts is loved by all. But one lacking in those skills can never ever win hearts.’

A lesson that India’s finest artist preached not only in his life but also in death.

Railway On My Template

2011-06-06T20:46:00.000-07:00

Food on trains from and to Surat

In the absence of air connectivity, its train tracks that link Surat and Surtis to various cities around India.

While the chugging experience tends to last from anything between a couple of hours to an overnight journey, Surtis who are foodies by nature find it hard not to munch away in between stations. Mice and roach infested coaches do not deter the determined diners at nights neither does the hustle bustle of day time duress within over packed compartments hamper taste buds .

A lot of locals and migrants carry disposable boxes from home, armed with comfort food for cravings, but with their entire hygienic home made theplas, puri bhajis and moong bhakri tiffins, they still find it hard to resist railway food.

Unlike reheated cold food which tastes like cardboard which is available on most domestic flights (barring a rare few), train food is a rung above in the case of hot service. Attendants smoothly saunter in and out of bogies, perfectly balancing tea trays, lazy lunches and dinner treats.

While luxury express trains like the Rajdhani and Shatabdi put up showy trays, teacups, flasks and plates; cattle class compartments have their own exclusive specials which the A C coach riders have no access to.

A brekkar enroute to Mumbai in your first class coupe will comprise of seasonal fruit, fruit juice, service tea, cornflakes with hot/cold milk option, eggs made to order or cheesy omlettes, cutlets with boiled veggies, all served in style on a flexi table .If you are Goa bound, there are direct trains that serve South Indian fare like upma (served steaming hot in a casserole) Idlis and Medu vadas with Sambar and coconut chutney accompaniments.

Meanwhile, the jam packed regular coaches has vendors tempting the travelers with their hot pokoras, dal samosas, batata wadas, poha and masala chai.Aluminium kettles with their spouts clogged with a wad of newspaper offer instant rejuvenation to the tired tourist scrambling for space.

Lunch on the Amritsar-Mumbai Deluxe has its Indian masala chicken curry as the most popular item on track. Commuters enjoy it along with a runny mutter paneer gravy, glutenous yellow dal tadka and thick rotis tightly wrapped in foil. With papad and achar to tickle the taste buds.

Tea time treats on trains that come in from the North have samosas and sweetsmeat while Mumbai bound ones have Kachoris. Dipped tea bags brings little relief to masala chai lovers, often attendants give in to request and provide a ginger-mint special.

Evenings on trains to and from Surat can be spent sipping on tomato soup which is generously accompanied with bread sticks and a cube of butter. The August Kranti is reputed for its special dinner that consists of continental grilled chicken with mashed potatoes and boiled vegetables on the side. The egg curry on Jaipur Express is amazing, though little can be said about the cuisine on other Rajasthan bound trains.

Often, one can hop off to catch a special local treat at station stops like Dahanu has fresh white jamuns and masala chana dal mixed with uniformly chopped onions, chillies and a sprinkle of lime juice, Vadodra has hot dal wadas with killer fried green chillies, Abu road is popular for freshly sliced cucumber, carrots and earthen kullads filled to the brim with rabdi, Chittorgarh has spicy poha topped with crunchy Ratlami sev, Ajmer has hot mirchi bhajiyas stuffed with a tangy hot potato filling.

Being Mumbai born, I am quite snooty about my Vada Pav treat. The heavenly taste of spiced potato nestled in crunchy gram batter, teased with ginger and chillies, sandwiched between buttery bread that has been layered with tear jerking red chilly garlic paste is not surpassed in any other town. I tried the Surat station version yesterday, it looked decent enough and just as I bit in, I noticed the newspaper it was wrapped in.There, drenched with oil was the column I wrote last week .Needless to say, it was difficult to swallow the first morsel eaten from my own words.

2011-06-06T09:30:00.000-07:00

http://www.timescrest.com/culture/up-close-and-personal-with-imaad-shah-5548

2011-06-05T10:58:00.000-07:00

http://epaper.timesofindia.com/Repository/ml.asp?Ref=VE9JQS8yMDExLzA2LzA1I0FyMDA0MDA=&Mode=Gif&Locale=english-skin

Panjarapol : Surviving Pataliputra's Prototype

2011-05-29T19:38:00.000-07:00

The ‘Rampurva Bull Capital’ is India’s outstanding sandstone depict sourced from Bihar. It adorns the Rashtrapati Bhavan beneath Lutyen's dodecastyle portico. Built during Emperor Asoka’s regime (350BC) it has the words ‘Panesu Saymo’inscribed on it .The closest translation of this Pali script in Sanskrit means ‘sarveshu pranayshu samyamah ‘ meaning ‘all living creatures are equal’. It represents the veterinary profession as one of India’s best heritage.

Historians have enough reason to believe that India’s veterinary hospitals were first established in Asoka’s regime ,where wards were put up to treat and shelter animals both indoors and outdoor, medicinal herbs were provided for and at times even imported via sea route from other countries. Historians also believe Surat’s Banniyan Hospital is one amongst the survivals of its prototype at Pataliputra, founded by the Maurya Monarch* (* V.A.Smith-Early History of India).

While the Europeans called it so in their books because it was run by the Banniyans (Vanias) in Surat, this hospital which has been mentioned in many European and American history books is none other than the one we know as ‘Panjarapol’- the institution on Ghodod road that tends to all animals and birds which take ill; providing them a safe asylum.

The official status of this historical hospital states it to be more than 250 years old. During Aurungzeb’s regime, a cow could not be slaughtered in important places like Surat.According to an account, the Hindus payed butchers a fixed amount to spare cattle. Any attempts made by the English merchants to obtain beef were strongly opposed and would lead to mayhem. In 1608, an intoxicated Englishman named Thomas Tucker killed a calf which led to a riot of sorts in Tapi town. (Journal of John Jourdain 1608-1617)

J. Ovington has mentioned in his travelogue how Surtis considered charity towards animals as an act of great virtue. Diseased, lame, infirm cows, buffaloes, dogs, horses, mules, oxen, sheep, goats, monkeys, poultry, pigeons, birds and turtles found refuge and relief at the Panjarapol. In the ancient times, part of its land was used to cultivate medicinal herbs and grass for cattle graze.Ovington also mentions a hospital for fleas, bugs and vermin which existed next to it in the 17th century. The Encyclopedia Britannica states that this ward which was meant for rats, mice and insects,’ frequently hired beggars from streets for a stipulated sum to pass a night on the express condition of suffering them to enjoy their feast without molestation. Every night a poor fellow suffers himself to be preyed upon, while being strapped naked on the cot.’

Present day, Panjarapol has 7000 creatures under its roof. It has the lowest death rate in the country at 0.3-0.4 %, as well as the most modern hospital for animals in India with extremely qualified vets and state of the art facilities for x-ray, laparoscopy, sonography, cardiogram, endoscopies, blood serum analyzers, photo microscope etc.

The Nandini hospital here which has conducted thousands of life saving operations on various animals recently began its ‘Mission anti plastic’. Rescuing stray cows brought in by the SMC, it has conducted 50 operations to remove plastic and other toxic waste from the stomach of these speechless animals who suffer silently. Almost 35-50 kilos of plastic bags along with blades, iron nails, bottle corks, paper clips, straws etc find way into the stomachs of these cows via garbage on roadsides. The plastic melts within the cow’s stomach and starts lining it as well as the intestines affecting food absorption which leads to the cow turning anorexic. Such cows tire easily; losing their glossy sheen and suppleness, before ultimately dying a slow, painful death.

The least we can do to preserve our heritage of kindness towards these living creatures is to begin disposing garbage responsibly and stop using plastic bags.

Voyage To Surat- J Ovington

2011-05-26T22:16:00.000-07:00

Time Traveler In Surat

A good read in hand turns every travel trip into a two- fold adventure. Travelogues in particular, are perfect in providing the experience of a new culture. Such books encapsulate a different age in time while simultaneously enabling the reader to perceive it with the eyes of a writer.

Centuries since it was published in 1696, John Ovington’s travelogue-A Voyage To Surat in the year 1689, remains oft quoted a favourite and of the greatest possible value to historians and readers alike, who want a glimpse of Surat in the days of yore. Popular in the Australian National Library on one hand, this journal by an English Chaplain provides for case study to many Universities in the United States of America, on the other.

Considered one of the liveliest travel books, Ovington has been described as ‘a shrewd and practical observer of men and manners and by no means devoid of a sense of humour’, on his detailed account of Surat, as he saw it at the end of the 17th century.

Poet Laureate Naham Tate, famous author of the metrical paraphrase ‘The Psalms’, wrote a poetry on Ovington’s ‘Voyage to Surat ‘part of which reads,
’you have so lively Your Discoveries writ, We Read and Voyage with you as we sit, With you hoise Sail and reach the Indian shore; the real scene cou’d scarce delight us more.’

On 11th of April, 1689, Ovington set sail from Gravesend on East India Company’s vessel-Benjamin. While the first hundred odd pages provide for description of the exotic islands he visited en route from Madeira to Bombay, it is upon him embarking at Surat and the two and a half years that he spent there, that accounts for the true essence of the book.

Ovington’s profound and prolific proses provide a detailed and disciplined study of Surat’s contemporary life, customs, religious observances and politics. His diligent observation of the skilled commerce and cuisine that the town till date remains famous for, gives a picturesque glance of Surat city, whose bazaars, he wrote were ‘more populous than any part of London’.

Describing the Castle Green trade grounds and the ‘Kanchanis’-nautch girls who provided entertainment for traders by the river Tapi, John weaves the reader in the warp and weft of Surat’s rich silks, velvets, and taffeta. His text sparkles about the splendour of diamonds, rubies, sapphire and topazes; it is aromatic of spices that were shipped in and out namely nutmeg, pepper, cinnamon and mace.

It accounts how custom duty was charged at $ 1000 for an English ship of 400 tons. He describes how,’ Gold of Suratt is so very fine that 12 or 14 per Cent may be often gained by bringing it to Europe’, how silver had very little alloy in it, that 60 copper pice summed up to a Roupie and often bitter almonds were passed around as currency!

The crux of the commerce lay in the calm that the city functioned with.Ovington points out how despite of Surat being a conflux of several nations, this port from where Haj pilgrims sailed out, was a Mecca for universal merchants where foreign nationals such as Europeans, Arabs, Persian, Turks Armenians and locals merged in large numbers, yet, there was not a single capital punishment carried out in 20 years.

2011-05-21T00:35:00.000-07:00

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/CCIS-2105-Queer-film-fest-to-showcase-rainbow-of-cinematic-voices/articleshow/8474481.cms

2011-05-15T19:28:00.000-07:00

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/surat/Caged-Surtis-flap-on-Facebook-for-airport/articleshow/8325982.cms

Surat Airport : Udan Ghotala

2011-05-15T19:21:00.000-07:00

Summer travel plans of Surtis have given reason to Tapi town tattle of a different kind this year. It does not matter whether the luxury loving lala is bound for America or the Alps, for; the journey begins and ends with a 4 hour trip via either the rail or road routes.

Left in the lurch regarding increased air connectivity, with promises that were meant to be broken, Surat is abuzz with protests and pointers. While some caged Surtis are flapping on Facebook, there is flutter at socialite evenings and fury within sheris.

Here are a few Surti sawaals, statements and suggestions that this columnist happened to eavesdrop upon, last week:

‘We should not allow any politicians to land or take off from Surat airport. When we can’t use it, why should they?’

‘Officially, more buffaloes have run on the tarmac than flights’

‘May, no early June, no mid July, will someone tell me which year do they plan to begin more flights by?”

‘It’s all a big bad nexus of people with vested interests, I tell you.’

‘Fastest growing city, fastest growing GDP, slowest when it comes to travel.’

‘Sab dhandha hai but gundaa hai ye!’

‘ $%#@*&() ! (Unprintable body parts), aaprey kidhhu tey final, ahiya kaai budlay vudlay nahi!

‘My Chanel #5 smells like soot by the time the train reaches Mumbai’

‘What’s the point to flying business class when you access or end it by going cattle class?’

‘Trains take a toll on my Jimmy Choos and Vuitton luggage, but the under construction roadways are equally nightmarish to travel by.”

‘It costs half as much to fly from Vadodra to Delhi, than from Surat.’

‘Hamarey Calcutta mein aisa nahi hota’

‘I heard Kingfisher Airline might use our airport as a hanger for its flights’

‘Does the airport come under SEZ? Yes? Can we have a bar there?’

‘Let’s not forget, we can’t bootleg booze via the airway’

‘The Mumbai diamond industry is paying to not let us prosper’

‘No, the local diamond merchants want to park their private jets here’

‘Havey maarey heera nathi ghasva.’

‘I used to fly from Mumbai to Surat for Rs.75 via Safari Airways in 1974’

‘The Vayudoot flights that began thereafter rattled more than a railway coach’

‘I think the NRI’s will make a private airport at Ena gaam or Bardoli before ours takes off ’

‘Hu vaat karey chey? Khareykhar kay? Hachu bol jou!

‘Woh toh thherey pardesi, saath kya nibhayengey?’

‘Remember the ‘shootout at Surat airport’ incident? That was the only time it saw some real action’

‘Maybe we should just rent out all that space for military training, at least more helicopters will fly in, that way.’

‘Nazar lag gayee hai apney airport ko’

‘Can we hold a yagna? Like they did for the success of Indian cricket team?’

‘Hey bhagwaan laaj rakhjey, baaki badhu locha lapsi chey’

‘If they are not planning to begin more flights, we builders should be permitted to make more high rises in that area.’

‘They are saving the issue as a vote bank game plan for 2012’

‘At least we were saved from the false pilots scam, no? ‘

‘How will we ever have good doctors visiting our town without air connectivity?’

‘It is emotional connectivity for us migrants, no one understands our pain!’

‘Can we arrange for some politician’s daughter to get married in Surat? That should do the trick!’

SUMMER EXPOSURE : ART SMART

2011-05-09T19:51:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend, the otherwise barren lawns of Science Centre, Citylight, were strewn with youth lounging in languorous fashion. Armed with art and attitude, adding a summerish bougainvillea bloom to the serious grey architecture; they camped there from morning to night with a proud and confident presentation of their works.

Thanks to the generosity of SMC along with the support of the city mayor, final year students of VNSGU were able to share with denizens, their best created works of art and sculpture at the Science Centre. An apt venue for displaying art in Tapi town; it provides for the required height, distance and lights under which paintings large and small as well as sculptures tiny and majestic, can be comfortably viewed , in all their meaningful glory. Besides, the cool, cool air-conditioning makes for a breezy ambience since the air-con ducts are strategically placed.

Of course, setting up any exhibit is a tall order. But, then again, whats the point of being young and talented if you can’t make adverse circumstances work for you. After all, all the works on display were a result of endless hours of sweaty toil fuelled by the passion of perfection. Much care had been taken for appropriate placement and regarding the route that visitors were directed to, for absorbing in the art work visually, section wise. This was a fresh and unpretentious bouquet of Surat’s future artists, striking poetry with their elements of design.

There was a fine array of Indian aesthetics in lithographs, sketches, self portraits, wood cut prints, photography, sculptures made from clay, recycled cast iron and paper, along with graphic designs and product packaging .A jury from Baroda was invited to judge and announce the Jagdeep Smart awards for best students from the fields of painting, applied art and sculpture. Introduced this year, in memory of the late professor, to enhance and encourage the efforts of the art inclined interns.

In a town that is perceived as one which is still honing its art skills, we gratefully have the Smart legacy to live up to. Having been educated at prestigious institutions such as the Sir.J J School of Arts Mumbai, the Benaras Hindu University and M S University Baroda, the Smart family members have constantly strived to cultivate the culture of art in Surat.

Pioneered by the legendary Vasudeo Smart, whose works breathed life into traditional Indian tales. Converting holy verse to vision, tactfully depicting on canvas hundreds of little paintings to merge as one story, be it Ramayana or Jain transcripts. Two of his books- Roop Samhita and Bharat Na Bhint Chitro are collectors’ editions. Having traveled, taught and exhibited through the country, this critically acclaimed artist returned to home base to enrich local students with hands on experience, till he breathed his last.

His nephew, late Jagdeep Smart stepped into his shoes of not only being a brilliant artist but also a popular professor and poet. It was this multi awarded gentle soul who developed the fine arts course for Surat, with a vision to broaden the city’s art horizon. A vision that his son, Rajarshi Smart and the faculty at VNSGU now carry forward ; winner of the Gujarat State Lalit Kala Academy himself, Rajarshi’s colourful kitschy collection of ‘Autorickshaw art’ is in demand, doing the rounds at exhibits around various cities through India and shall some day soon, arrive in Surat.

Amongst the impressive art work on display at Science Centre, which I learnt upon closer inspection, was that of the young and upcoming talent Krishnapriya Smart. Needless to say, she has all the makings of being a chip off the old block.

Summer shopping : Souvenirs

2011-05-01T22:29:00.000-07:00

Now that we are over and done with the brouhaha over Britain’s wedding royale, it will be oft remembered via the souvenirs that were splurged on, for the same.

No matter what your allowance for a holiday is and whether or not you blow it up, souvenirs are those pleasant little somethings that fit into even the most clinched shoestring budget ,which you carry back home as mementos and gifts .

They are extremely popular because like squirrels, who collect nuts and bury them for winter treats, most of us humans too tend to collect some paraphernalia or the other; hoarding it in secret places to savour precious memories or exhibiting the same with pleasure and pride.

From Swiss bells to NYC t -shirts, wooden Amsterdam shoes, European lace, busts of South Asian Buddha and Egyptian Nefertiti, Indian idols of versatile Ganesha, beaded African animals and Australian fridge magnets; they can be cheap and cheerful or chic and classy. When it comes to collecting souvenirs, its different strokes for different folks.

On visits to Surat during summer holidays as a child, I would be fascinated by the antique lamps and bottle collection that my maternal uncle had. Blown glass in all kinds of colours and shapes with designs and grooves that provided kaleidoscopic visions when held against the light, from antique markets of Burma, England, Belgium, Persia and other countries whose names I couldn’t then pronounce, would find way and weight in his secret loft .Preserved in soft muslin, he would bring them down fortnightly to polish, at times gifting them away generously to people who valued their artistic quality.

My dear friends Ritu and Rajan Talwar, whose various warm homes have been a great refuge to me in all times of life’s emergencies be it marriage, plague or flood ,have a tasteful crystal curios collection; pieces of which they have aptly put up within nooks and corners to spell subtle style.

Surti socialites Bina and Rajaram Parikh, one of the most gracious hosts I know in suburban Surat, love to collect bone china mugs depicting cities they traveled through, worldwide and have set them up in a glass cabinet within their ever busy kitchen, from where unending treats are conjured up for lucky local guests and celebrities who visit town.

Tapi town’s eminent and philanthropist businessman, Kanhaiya Lalbhai Contractor is a Gujarati gourmand and little known to others is the fact he is a great cook himself. While one can find memorabilia miniatures of every wonder of the world at his dwelling amongst other precious sculptors and art, his dearest collection is that of menu cards; collected from restaurants the world over, where he has relished fine dining.

Nafisa Tyebjee, whose home is as elegant as the jewellery she designs for Surat’s elite and her ever smiling husband Juzer, have a grand display of the most exquisite and intricate coffee spoon collections in ceramic, steel, silver and gold, hung in a glass and wooden case on a wall facing their dining table.

Science center’s ‘Souvenir shop’ has little to offer in terms of Surti stuff. Other than picture postcards, mugs and a few odd books by SMC, the other stuff is just general gifts that lack local flavour, speaking of which ,Surat’s food is a hands down winner with visitors who make sure to carry back edible souvenirs in form of bhusu,ghari,khaja,ponk or padvali

As for me, Mickey and I have a growing collection of tequila shot glasses. Although they are not put to much use in our dry state city, they never fail to remind us of happy hours spent pubbing, clubbing and moonlighting with fellow Surtis, the world over.

The history of Surat's geography

2011-04-24T19:45:00.000-07:00

Surat Municipal Corporation’s recent book release- ’At the Core’ not only provides a peek at the built heritage of Surat and Rander but also enriches readers with information on important areas of Tapi town and how their names came into being.

Tapi, also known as Suryaputri, is named after the Sun God’s daughter. Author Ishwarlal Desai who has penned one of the most wonderful versions of the history of our town –‘Surat Sonani Murat’ mentions how mythology revolves around the belief that the Sun God upon being pleased with the penance of Kapil Muni, settled in this region as Kantarswami, which is why it was known as Suryapur. Rander derived its name from his wife Rannade, while Ashwinikumar was christened after his son, who, locals believe performed the pyre rites for gods.

The name Choriyasi Taluka was derived from the fact that flags of 84 nations proudly furled over the trading ships that sailed the Tapi. As the town began to progress, turning into one of the most successful ports in global trade, various core areas of the city were named after rich merchants or clans that resided there, like Gopipura, Sonifaliya, Wadifaliya, Shahpore.

Certain areas were named after the trade that flourished there like Nanavat-where money of all International currency could be exchanged, Ruwala Tekro-where cotton commodity ruled, Machhlipit-fish market.

Saiyyedpura is said to have taken its name from the Sufi Saiyyed saint while Meccaipul derives its name via the ferry station bridge from where Haj pilgrims boarded ships that set sail to Mecca.

Rustompura is named after a leading Parsi trader in the 17th century-Rustom Maneck Seth (1635-1721) .This gentleman was the vital link for business between Aurungzeb, the Dutch and the British.A favourite with the monarch, he was gifted large areas of land which he named after himself and family members. Sagrampura was originally called Frampura, after his son- Framji Seth, Nanpura is named after his grandson, Nanbhoy Seth.

While the English and Dutch cemeteries are part of the city’s heritage structures, all that otherwise remains reminiscent of the British are the Hope Bridge and Andrews Library and though the Dutch did not make it to Delhi, their factory and garden are still very much part of our town .Interestingly, French Garden is present day Diwali Baug. While both the Dutch and the French gardens look out to the river, in the ancient times, the popular river fronts were the various Ovaras. Amongst the aptly named numerous Ovaras such as Navdi (boat), Ghanta (bell), Patali (Hanuman temple) Raja (King) the one that holds distinction is the Paanch Pandav Ovaro where, it is believed that the Pandava’s emerged ,through a secret tunnel ,when they escaped certain death.

The area we know as Mugalisara derives it name from Mughal Sarai where caravans once rested; it now houses the offices of the municipal corporation. Surat’s modern suburbs begin with Athwalines; its name comes from Athwa gate-meaning the eighth gate. Through its years of progress, rulers tried to secure our prosperous ‘city of Kubera’ with a circumference of two walls. The inner wall was named Sheharpanah (city shelter) while the outer one was Alampanah (shelter of the world).

Surat originally had 12 city gates which were majestic and named -Phatak Darwaja,Variyavi Darwaja,Katargam Darwaja,Lal Darwaja,Delhi Darwaja,Sahra Darwaja,Salabat Darwaja,Maan Darwaja,Navsari Darwaja,Jafarali Darwaja,Majura Darwaja,Athwa Darwaja-the positions of these were determined via the routes of trade.Even as the areas around these now non existant gates are still known by the same names,Surat’s Ringroad is the replacement of most of the same

From Chowk to Zhampa , Katargam to Timalyawaad, the city carries on its ancient names with pride. A few areas near Ramnagar in Rander and Sachin GIDC area are officially known as Pakistan Mohallo and Bangladesh Mohollo, thus named after migrants from those countries who are now successfully settled in Surat.

Surat Nu Jaman,Tapi Nu Maran

2011-04-19T07:21:00.000-07:00

They say that the crows come to fetch your soul when it departs from its mortal being.

There were five of them, silently perched in a dignified demeanor outside her windowsill.

Her face beamed an inner glow as she slept peacefully in the room within, revealing no sign of agony suffered since past three months; encased within a network of fleecy wrinkles, hair out of harm’s way in a bob cut; dressed in her signature Khadi skirt and short sleeved shirt-her preferred attire since days of picketing straw dolls at Bhagal crossroads; when she supported Gandhiji’s Quit India movement as a child.

The doctor who came to issue her certificate of death broke down.” Who will rebuke me for my unpunctuality now?” He sobbed. Since the time she had needed physicians, she had been wary of their degrees.” I could bet my last Icy balm that most of Surat’s labourers in Varacha and Pandesara are given shots by quacks with fancy degrees.” she would state, as she scrutinized credentials of every doc who examined her. The balm was her precious jar of relief for bow legs that had seen better days when she bicycled to Nari Saurakshan Gruh, originally located at Piplod. She would pedal from within the walled city, over Ghodod road which was then a dusty track for racing horses; spend the day counseling rescued female sex workers, women who knew no better than being suicidal. Later, she had trekked the Dangs, educating independence to adivasi students. By the time rheumatism set in, she sheltered and kept a sharp maternal eye over local college girls.

As the sun changed its last set of windows for the day, the house began to fill with mourners. Wobbly kneed sisters lamented their irreplaceable loss, braver family members held on to their tears as best they could because she had chuckled upon instructing them,” I don’t want any crying; remind everybody that it is considered shameful accordingly to Hindu Bali. Don’t trouble the NRIs, for I have no intention to wait on an ice slab while they manage a special leave from their tedious routine.”

Somewhere within the cross legged crowd of veiled women, a ringtone blared out a stale item number .Unnerved, the elders began to discuss dates for ‘besnu’,’barmu’,’termu’. Before their mission for setting menus could commence, they were politely informed by a grand child about her last wishes -
” Don’t host any post death ceremonies whatsoever. Don’t run an obituary in the papers; there will be people eating bhelpuri over my photograph the next day. Help the needy, not the greedy. Feeding our God men will not nourish my soul, I would rather you all remember me every time you bite into a hot ‘mirchi bhaji’ or relish a ‘ghari’.”
Talk about Gharis sent her gleefully reminiscing; she would relive delicious tales about delicacies that originated in Surat, the art of rolling paper thin patulis, how the English first discovered custard apples here and named them so, how the original ‘sancha’ ice cream was pure cream laden with luscious fresh fruit, how khaja got combined with mango pulp, citing reasons why Surti cuisine is glorified.

The monotonous chanting of God’s name died down at Ashwinikumar cremation ground. Now modernized with the passage of time; it offers ashes of the deceased within a few hours of the pyre being lit. A little shop across the road, offers voluntary service of sending the same to Varanasi; via which, relatives recieve a post card of confirmation from a trust, stating that the ashes of their loved ones have been immersed in the Ganges at Kashi.

She preferred the Tapti. “The old proverb stating ‘Surat nu jaman ane Kashi nu maran’ is meant for visitors, not us Surtis. Flowing by the Shivji temple at the Paanch Pandav Ovaro, near Ashwinikumar, is a segment of the Tapi known as Gupt Ganga, even the Ganges comes to here to wash her sins. It’s futile for Surtis to go to Kashi when the Tapi is pure enough for the Ganges herself.” she had informed.

She will be missed terribly, but then again, her Surti spirit shall live on forever.

An open letter from an abandoned child

2011-04-10T18:41:00.000-07:00

An open letter from destiny’s child

Dear Ma,
I often think about you, as I lie here in my hospital cradle. I miss the warmth of your womb where I lay snug and safe for nine months. Feeding from you as your foetus. Feeling along with you, your happiness and pain as I tossed and tumbled inside you. I heard the sounds of music you listened to and jigged with it in my own way within the space you so generously provided me. I am sorry but I dint mean to hurt you when I gave you that occasional kick from within, it was just my way of assuring you that I was okay and I existed.

It was not my intention to hurt you at all when I made way out, but your body had given signs that it was time for me to come and join you in your world outside. I cried because you cried .My favourite moment was when you first held me close; nothing will ever feel that good again.:-) .

There has been a lot of buzz around here since the time I have been brought to this new place. People bend over me in curiosity and give sweet smiles. I have also been photographed and featured in newspapers. I wonder if any of them reached you and if you recognized me. The people looking after me are called doctors. They are helping me get healthier by giving me something called antibiotics .I am also given infant nutrition but it doesn’t taste even half as good as what you fed me. :( . Last fortnight, they brought in another girl like me who was forgotten in a train by her mother, by mistake. The poor child refused to have anything for 16 hours until she was happily united with her mother.

Then last week, I got new company. This baby weighs twice my weight and is really cute. That’s what all the nurses say. She was wrapped in a cloth and left behind on the main road! I wonder why parents are becoming so forgetful these days. But you know what, when she was brought in here, another mother of an infant offered to feed her :-) I suppose breast milk does not differentiate between children. If her parents don’t come looking for her, maybe she will be my best friend at Nari Saurakshan Gruh ,where both of us will be growing up till our parents find us .I hear they celebrate all festivals and holidays and have good health and educational programmes. But I would rather celebrate my birthday with you; will you be able to find me by then?

I am looked after lovingly by the inmates of that institution. Instead of one mother I have many. But you know what? I miss you. Do you miss me too? I hope you do.

Today is a very special day for girls, I hear.The town has been fasting, observing Navratri before Ram Navmi, praying for health, wealth and happiness from all the avatars of Goddesses. Little girls like me are called ‘Kanjaks’ meaning incarnations of Goddesses .They will be invited at homes and people will wash their feet and bow in front of them asking to be blessed. The little giggling girls will be given goodies and gifts. If I could talk and someone asked me what I wanted for a gift, I would most certainly ask to be united with you.

They say I am a survivor, some bad people buried me alive but I called out loud from below the earth mounds and made it .They have named me after one of the sports champion in town and I hope to make my mark in this world ,as she has. I will. And just as her parents are so proud of her, I hope you and Papa will be too. :-)

Hugs and kisses,

Destiny’s child.

MEMOIRS OF A ‘TEXTOIL’ TYCOON

2011-04-03T20:48:00.000-07:00

Memoirs of a 'textoil' tycoon.

‘A story like mine should never be known, for my world is forbidden, fragile and well, fatuous. I was born in a faraway land, in the lap of luxury, thanks to the toil of my predecessors. My childhood was the happiest phase of my life; a time when I could be and express myself and have nobody judge me for it, when friends were just that, when my surname was not an invisible decorum ;Then, I grew up.

’ Go make a life ‘, they said.’ See the world for yourself. We have set up a textile mill for you; all you have to do is run the show.’ I smiled to myself; this meant Independence, an opportunity to prove my ability. I wanted a life that was mine to live, this was going to be it or so I thought.

I had read that the Parsis considered themselves as sugar when they first arrived in Gujarat to mingle in and spread sweetness; I thought of myself as water. Water can carve its way through even stone and no matter how tough a time I would face, I was ready to work my way out from it.Ah! But I was young then, and naïve.

So, I gave up my city of joy, its club culture and cosmopolitan crowd .Trading old girlfriends for a wife, my top end car for a second hand model and a palatial mansion for a condominium that was part of the mill premises was not exactly as much adventurous fun as books otherwise make it out to be. I often wonder if that wry smile on father’s face when he talked about Surat actually meant that he knew it was part of a ‘dry state’ area. Freedom came with its own set of limitations here, I realized it much later.

A man’s power cannot be judged by his appearance alone-It’s the first lesson my mill labourers taught me as they twisted me around their little fingers. I learnt to adjust myself to filthy surroundings, gutter tongue and toxic air; the moolah mania overpowered all other senses. Competition and inflation were yet to take over, making good money was really easy; I was determined to not seek to defeat the men I was competing, I had decided to defeat their confidence, taking myself to unreachable heights.

I was quick to make it to the top slot. But dreams, alas! They can either make or break you. As you try and make them come true, you must live both the sides of that desire. With power also comes responsibility and if you cannot handle both, there will be none left.

Through the years, my life turned to routes I had never foreseen, the city took back as much as it gave, monetarily and socially. My wife switched from a veiled, head nodding docile daughter in law to a vain, haughty socialite whom I no longer recognized. Was she in the wrong company, I wondered? But then again, her inner circle was that of my community, how could I blame the city? The women in Surat are modern, I admire that, they voice their opinion, wear what they want and even as they are feminine, think themselves no less then the man they are with. They are also traditional in their own way and for an outsider to come understand and balance both, is a tall order. My children have a life of their own, and I certainly won’t be the one to write their future.

I sit back and realize the only three things that matter in life are- cricket, business and war. Understand one and you will understand all .This past week, has provided a peek into all three.

With our union still on strike against yet another price hike, I shall spend the present week thinking about my gains and loss.

One cannot read loss, only feel it. So, here I am, a lonely Lala, penning thoughts in a diary that will never be read.’

Mirza Ghalib's Shagird -Sayyah

2011-03-31T22:51:00.000-07:00

MIRZA GHALIB’S SURTI SHAGIRD

Nestled within the hustle bustle of the area known as Badekhan Chakla, is one of Surat’s heritage monuments - Khwaaja Daana Saheb’s Dargah.The Mausoleum of a famous saint who traveled from Agra to Baroda to Surat in the 15th century .Just as all rouzas do, this place provides for peace and quiet to staunch believers who come here to pray and pay respect.

Circumferential to Khwaja Daana Saheb’s place of rest are various other tombs, those of his direct descendants. One among these is that of Nawab Gulam Baba Khan, a patron of Delhi’s great poet Mirza Ghalib. Next to him, is buried Sayyah-one of Ghalib’s favourite students. Although the renowned poet never visited Gujarat, he kept in touch with Gujarat’s Mirs via his wonderful letters.

‘Qasid ke aatey aatey khat ek aur likh rakhoon,main jaanta hoon jo who likhenge jawaab mein’

Ghalib tutored the glamour of Urdu grammar to many students through his impeccable penmanship and was particularly fond of Mian Dad Khan, bestowing him the pen name ‘Sayyah’, meaning traveler.Ghalib penned him thirty-five letters from 1859-1869, discussing various topics. Sayyah was a courtier at Nawab Mir Gulam Baba’s palace and it was he who introduced Ghalib to this patron.Ghalib loved to travel but in absence of good health and apt means, it was Sayyah who corresponded to him about various places in India where he traveled to.

In the book Mirza Ghalib and the Mirs of Gujarat, author Mir Jaffar Imam shares the letters Ghalib wrote to Sayyah.The beauty of Ghalib's prose was equal to that of his verse.The personal letters written by Ghalib during his last years to the kith and kin of author Mir Jaffar Imam,show Ghalib's most vulnerable and sentimental profile.

One of them reads thus when translated- “Well if I cannot travel, I’ll content myself with the thought that ‘to hear of pleasure is to experience half of it.’ So let me enjoy the story of Mian Dad Khan Sayyah’s travels and tours.”

Syed Zahiruddin Madani who wrote ‘Sukhanrvarne Gujarat’ mentions how Sayyah was a connoisseur of elegant and well stitched clothing and ordered the same from Delhi; he also had a penchant for perfumes and collected various ittars from around the country.Once, Mirza Ghalib sent him six caps like the one he wore himself but Sayyah gave them to Gulam Baba, wearing none himself.

Sayyah’s luxurious lifestyle and extravagant habits led to his involvement with some people of dubious character, who printed counterfeit currency. Once, Sayyah used a counterfeit Rs.100 note at the Victoria Terminus and was sentenced to fourteen years upon getting caught but, was pardoned and set free when he wrote a verse in the honour of Queen Victoria’s jubilee celebrations.

Although a Diwan of Sayyah ‘s works is not available, he published a book ‘Saire Sayyah’ in 1872, which was a travelogue featuring his visits to mushaiyaras in cities such as Hydrabad,Mysore,Madras,Delhi,Meerut,Lucknow,Banaras and so on. The book ‘Lataaif-e-Ghaibi’ written by Sayyah is credited to Ghalib who many scholars believe was its original writer.

‘Khat likehnge garche matlab kuch na ho/Hum toh aashiq hai tumhare naam ke’

In his book ‘Surat sonani murat’, author Ishwarlal Desai has described how Ghalib and Sayyah shared a unique father and son relationship.Ghalib mostly referred to him as ‘Barkhurdar’,or ‘Munshi sahab ‘or ‘Dost’. Ghalib and Sayyah both shared the grief of losing several children none of whom survived beyond infancy. The Ustad consoled his shagird through his letters and related to his irreplaceable loss.

He conferred Sayyah with the title’Saif Ul Haq’ (the sword of God) and wrote to him”By giving you the title, I have appointed you the commander of my army. You are my hands, you are my arms, you will be the weilder of the sword of my speech.” Proud of being his ustad’s favourite, Sayyah once wrote “The shadow of grace of Ghalib has graced me, what matters if the wings of Phoenix do not bless me with their shadow.”

He further penned with great pride, “Hai talmaz Assadullah se humko Sayyah, shaayaro mein ho na kyun fakhre madar apna”

Thailand's spice and silk route

2011-03-21T19:43:00.000-07:00

Thailand's spice and silk route

“Sorry sir,full moon night,so, no whiskey,no sexy.”said the bouncer blocking the bar entrance. The Gujaratis could not believe their ears; there they were, in Phuket, Thailand’s paradise for ‘paisawallahs’, they had all the money to spend in the world, but this ban certainly meant less bang for their buck.

“Eni behney! “Exclaimed one from the gang,”ahiya ho Poonam bharva jaay!”(they visit the temple on a full moon here too)
There is much more than the Thai‘wai’(namaste)that welcomes Indians to feel at home in Thailand; for a country where tourism thrives on the business of bars and babes-practices that are generally perceived as being outside the matrix of morality, it has staunch cultural traditions very similar to many followed within India and more so in Gujarat, which surprises first time visitors.

Business bonding

Around 8 lakh Indians visited Thailand in 2010,but Gujarat’s Shahbandars (Port men) were amongst the earliest who sailed out to its shores.During the ancient medieval times, Surat, Bharuch and Khambhat which were amongst the most active ports of the 52 which existed in Gujarat, had many traders sailing out with fine silk and spices to Thailand’s shores.Patan’s Patola silk is considered sacred and the fabric of gods there.Naturally dyed colour fast block printed cloth made by the masters of textiles in Ahmedabad was produced for export to Thailand.

Made by the Bhavsars of Ahmedabad,the cloth was known as ‘Saudagiri’-fabric meant for trade.This trade was monitored by three main corporations run by Vashi,Maskati and Baghi . The Imperial Gazeeteer notes how five workshops of Hindu and Muslim Khatris were set up in Pethapur for block printing fabrics to be exported to Thailand. The Gajjar community specially crafted wooden blocks with Thai motifs. Along with silk weaves ,cotton Kalamkar prints from Ahmedabad had high demand in Thai markets.Motifs woven within Thai silk till this date is inspired by these ancient designs.

In his book ‘The history of Thailand,’Patit Paban Mishra states how ‘spice and pepper trade in the Mediterranean by Gujarati traders resulted in the establishment of Muslim settlements in Southeast Asia.The Indian Muslims, newly converted to the religion themselves were not as orthodox as the Arabian followers of Islam.’

Gujarati entrepuener, Nishita Shah, 30, recently featured amongst Forbes magazine’s listing of Thailand’s richest.Gujarat’s Dawoodi Bohra community known to be ace businessmen were amongst the earliest trading communities to settle in Bangkok; in fact ,the oldest non-Chinese firm in Bangkok is the A.T.E. Maskati Company, established 1856 by Dawoodi Bohras of Ahmedabad who had sailed out from Surat and set up one of Thailand’s first international trading companies.

Food and culture.

Gujarat’s Khatri community too abstains from both meat and alcohol during full moon nights and a visit to the temple particularly that of Mahalakshmi is mandatory. Just as the evil eye is warded off by burning it back here, butter paper lanterns are lit and let up to burn out above the beaches of pristine sea waters there.

More than 94 % of Thailand’s population follows Theravada Buddhism which historians believe was spread via the messengers of Ashoka the great Indian king , locals believe in Ramakien –a Thai version of Ramayana..Over the years,Thailand has also preserved its Hindu characteristics acquired from Khshatriya immigrant colonies,via peaceful non political methods and more so by means of marriage.Traders who sailed out to Southeast Asia,often ended up marrying local women and settling there for good.Later,when their off springs were married back into Gujarat,they brought with them a varied Thai cuisine and long before fancy Thai restaurants were opened up in our country, Khatri home makers were conjuring up coconut and peanut curries tinged with lemongrass roots within the local kitchens.

Many Brahmins, who sailed there with Kshatriya kings settled in Thailand and were adopted into royalty and also performed coronation ceremonies. Indian themes thus got ingrained within Thai forms of dance and dramas. Method of worship is similar as Hindus, as are our Gods from Ganesha to Brahma.

Thousands flock the Sri Mariamman temple in Bangkok during Navratri .Bangkok's sacred destination - temple of Emerald Buddha has Ramayan depicted on its walls.A lot of retail shops in Thailand even within fancy malls begin the day by playing a recording of the Hanuman chalisa.

Geographically,the only link that connects India to Thailand are the lowest crags of the Himalayas ,foothills of which line Northern Thailand; its Salawin river flirts with Myanmar before flooding our Bay of Bengal. Surat and Tapi are names that read on the maps of both these two different countries which have similar customs. While Gujarat’s spices and silk enrich their day to day life, fruits imported from Thailand's 'Fruit Garden city'-Surat Thani, like Ramabutan, Mangosteen and Durian are now available here too. Along with similar English language speaking skills (or rather the lack of same) we also retain the title of being ‘city of good people.’

Alam Ara -India's first talkie.

2011-03-21T19:35:00.000-07:00

MORE ARA FOR ALAM

Last week Google’s doodle commemorated India’s first talkie, Alam Ara, turning it into one of online’s hottest hits of the day.

Made 80 years ago, our country’s first ‘all singing, talking and dancing’ movie seems to have been silenced forever, since, it’s last existing print perished in a fire at the National Film Archives of India, 2003.

A milestone for Bollywood, this movie that also set the hallmark for popular Indian cinema with the song and dance routine has another strong Surti connect besides its heroine Zubeida.

“Alam Ara was an instant runaway hit that ran for seven weeks at Mumbai’s Majestic cinema, four annas tickets were black marketed for Rs.5 and Rs.6 an astonishing price in those days.” informs music writer Adil Bhoja,further pointing out that Imperial Movie –tone was co owned by a Surti.”In the silent era, and even much later movies were screened in pitched tents with a screen and a few accompanied musicians. A Surti by the name of Abdullally Esoofally was a leading exhibitor of silent movies. In a bid to settle down, he bought the Alexandra Theatre in Bombay in 1914 and went on to build the Majestic Theatre in 1918 along with his partner- Ardeshir Irani.Together they formed Imperial Film Company and released Alam Ara in 1931.”

Abdullally Esoofally was an enterprising Surti, born here in 1884; this pioneer tent showman traded in global cinema. He would take his projector, folding screen and a fifty by hundred foot tent that could host a thousand spectators and venture to spread the magic of cinema through India and Asia, exhibiting operas, comedies and actualities like travelogues and sports events, with live music from tabla-sarangi and harmonium players.With Alam Ara also began the profession of penning dialogues for cinema; India’s first writer of which was Joseph David, a Bene Israeli Jew .

The script was written in lighter vein to appeal lay audiences similar to the way they are now. David’s great grand daughter, Joanna Ezekiel a writer herself, now settled in the UK says that ,”Although he had minimal schooling and had joined Parsi Imperial theatre as a stagehand who got small improvisational roles as an actor, Joseph David Penkar was soon noticed for his talent with words and music. Fluent in Indian and Hebrew as well as the English language, he had a passion for plays and the influence of mythological tales from all these languages was detectable in Alam Ara.I am proud that my Jewish ancestor wrote a script that was enjoyed alike by Hindus,Muslims,Jews ,Christians and other religions alike. Sentimental? Yes, but then, that’s Bollywood.”

Paging through The Encyclopedia of Hindi Cinema proved one thing for certain, that the main lead Master Vithal –superstar of the silent era had little to do in the film; being poor at Hindi diction which was the need of the hour then, he was shown magically dumbstruck and was either in a trance or unconscious through most of the film. It was here that Prithiviraj Kapoor’s thunderous booming voice scored and secured a successful future for this character actor who went on to establish the iconic Kapoor clan.Prithviraj Kapoor played the role of Adil,as Zubeida’s father in the film.

Surat’s Zubeida who played the lead role held centre stage with her enigma. Writer Urvish Kothari, a connoisseur of vintage music who owns a booklet on Alam Ara, printed in Gujarati, points out that, “Alam Ara was the name of the heroine, which is interesting considering the fact that it was not a known name that belonged to any historical /mythological character that people could identify with.”

It was Ardeshir Irani’s belief in this spitfire Surti superstar who went to provide ‘paisa vasool’entertainment for the enthusiastic public.It was she who made it eternal, like it’s name-Alam Ara-Light of the World, glowing in our memory forever.

Google 's Alam Ara Doodle -India's first talkie's hero was actually its heroine.

2011-03-14T19:23:00.000-07:00

Surti Siren on Google Doodle

80th Anniversary of India’s first talkie Alam Ara.

Google’s doodle talk is back and how! Post an all women special logo for the 100TH International Women’s Day, Google’s search engine home page for India has now featured Zubeida, the legendary actress from Surat, on its new doodle. As a tribute to India’s first talkie-Alam Ara, on its 80th anniversary, the doodle is an artist’s impression of a scene from the movie.

Daughter of the Nawab of Sachin and Fatma Begum who was Bollywood’s first lady director, Zubeida made her debut at 12 with the movie Kohinoor and had already made her mark as an actress with Balidaan which was based on Tagore’s Sacrifice.

Highest paid actress of her times, with the title role Alam Ara, she had the box office coffers jingling and a stampede of sorts was created at Mumbai’s Majestic cinema where people thronged to catch a glimpse of her’ All talking, singing and dancing ‘ blockbuster.

Zubeida who plays a gypsy girl in the film,sang most of the songs in the movie, which were recorded, live at night within an indoor studio, to avoid outside noise by ‘microphones hidden in incredible places to keep out of camera range ‘as director Ardeshir Irani had once mentioned.

“Irani was able to foresee the profound impact sound would have on cinema. He raced to complete Alam Ara before several other contemporary sound films. The cast and crew faced a lot of hitches since sound proof stages were unheard of then. Mostly shot indoors and at night, since the studio was close to a railway track, they had to schedule shots between train timings or shoot after their services ceased.” Says music writer Aadil Bhoja.

“Zubeida was a beauty with a sensuous voice, luminescent skin and great presence. Watching her perform popular songs from the film like ‘Badla dilwayega yaar tu ab sitamgaro se” and ‘De de Khuda ke naam pe “(originally sung in the movie by Wazir Mohammed Khan) live during the Golden Jubilee celebrations of Alam Ara at Sanmukhananda Hall was a rare treat.” says Yasin Dalal, 65, ex head of department of Journalism and Mass Communication, at Saurashtra University, a staunch cinema buff from Rajkot, who has a video recording of the event,” Even as she stopped short after singing a few lines and shyly disclosed,”bhul gayi.”,the audience went gaga over this beauty from Gujarat, who said she was honoured and proud to have been part of this great film.”

Directed by Ardeshir Irani, the movie was a remake of the popular play Alam Ara written by Joseph David Penkar, a playwright from The Parsi Imperial Theaterical Company. While Prithviraj Kapoor played a character actor in the film, its lead master Vithal was sued by Sharda Studios for breach of contract by working for Imperial Movietone. M A Jinnah was then appointed to defend him.

Just as master Vithal ogles at Zubeida on the Google doodle, so also he had little to do and nothing to say in this first of its kind ‘All living .Breathing.100 percent talking’ film as it was advertised.Vithal being weak at Hindi diction was mostly shown unconscious or in a trance while the Surti siren held centre stage and sizzled onscreen.

India’s first talkie which was lost in silence when its last existing print was destroyed forever in a fire at the National Film Archives of India, has found a voice again and like it’s name-Alam Ara-proven to be the Light of the World ,glowing in our memory forever.

Wali Muhammed Wali

2011-03-13T23:10:00.000-07:00

ASHES TO ASHES, DUST TO DUST?
Ashleshaa Khurana

Ajab shehron mein pur nur aek shehr bila shak hai voh jag mein maqsad-e-deher ke mash-hur us ka naam Surat ,keh jawey jis ke dekhey sab kudurat ............vahaan saakin ite hain ahl-e mazhab,ke ginti mein naa aaven unke mashrab agarche sab hain voh abnaa-e aadam,vale beenash mein rangaarang-e aalam

Penned in ‘Rekhta’ (ancient Urdu), the above words were part of a masnavi written in praise of Surat by India’s first Urdu poet, Wali Muhammed Wali;also known as Wali Gujarati because he lived and died in our state. Wali’s brilliant prose put Urdu poetry on the world literary map. A rough translation of the text above, provided by poet Max Babi, reads-

“Amongst the delights of humanity is a brilliant city ,one which draws people to quaff celestial joy ,it goes by the name of Surat ,one sheds all malice as it alights on the eye………
so many people of so many religions live there ,their sects cannot be possibly counted ,even though they are all progeny of Adam, in appearance however, they are a multicoloured spectrum.”

Wali, who educated himself via his travels couldn’t have described our town or its visitors better. Besides being the hub for global trade, Surat was also the land where agents of several nations vied with each other to live in the greatest splendour.

It was here that the English first came in contact with the Armenians; it was here that the French gained the unenviable title of being pirates and plunderers, where the Portuguese and the Dutch competed die hard for remaining the masters of maritime trade.

In The Journal of Asiatic Society of Bombay, A F Ballasis records how the English presidents in town dined in ‘vessels and dishes which were all of massive silver and each course was ushered in by a flourish of trumpets and a band of music played during dinner’He also points out, ‘men who lived in such grandeur may naturally be supposed to have emulated each other in erecting ostentation tombs to commemorate their dead’

Undoubtedly, the cemeteries of the English, Dutch and Armenians in Surat are its most grand heritage. England’s Oxenden brothers buried here within tombs which have been described to be of ‘unsurpassed grandeur’ even in Europe, standing tall at forty feet, with a twenty five feet diameter and lofty cupolas.

Many historians have remarked that by adorning their tombs with fine marble, frescos, passages from scriptures and windows with wood carvings the Dutch and English competed to out do each other even in death and tried to impress their status on locals ; how ‘The object of raising Baron Adrian Von Reede’s monument was to eclipse the English cemetery’.

While most of the graves are of women of honour, men of status and innocent children, J Ovington mentions in his travelogue, the grave of a certain merry Dutch man whose last wish was rather strange and whenever his friends visited his grave they,” remembered him there sometimes so much that they quite forgot themselves.”.

Believed to be a relative of the Prince of Orange, banished to Surat by the Dutch government, his was supposedly,’ the most discreditable grave at the burying ground ‘, according to the Calcutta Review,’ the notorious tippler had enjoined that a stone punch bowl be placed on his tomb’s summit and smaller punch bowls with sugar loaves at the corners of his tomb.’ His friends would visit him at night and revel in merry making by preparing punch atop his grave and ladle it in the smaller bowls as they sang,”Oh! That a Dutchman’s draught could be; As deep as the rolling Zuyder Zee”

Yes, there are many strangers from foreign lands buried in Surat;surrounded by fragrant frangipani trees, their tombs are officially ‘reckoned as the most important historical monuments in the city’by the SMC, which provides details of the same on its website. Protected by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI), they all rest in peace .

As for Wali, who died 1707;alas! his mazaar is but a razed road in Ahmedabad since the last nine years.

At the Core-Book review

2011-03-09T19:07:00.000-08:00

AT THE CORE-GLIMPSES AT SURAT’S GLORY

Surat is one of the fastest growing cities in the world sparkling as bright as diamonds that are polished here(80% of the entire world's uncut stones are polished here); a town by the river Tapi which holds its place in history with illuminating memories of a glorious past. Here is where the Sun God presided, the city named Suryapur after him, Rander on the yonder shore named after his wife Rannade, Tapi known as his daughter-Suryaputri, part of which is renowned as Gupt Ganga, where the Ganges visits to wash her sins.

The original Gateway to India for the globe, where flags of 84 countries once furled high making a statement for the town’s trading talent. With the advent of visitors and settlements came the array of heritage that weaved itself within this textile town’s social fabric and till date reflects in Surat’s culture and construction.

‘At the Core’, Understanding the built heritage of Surat and Rander - a book by Urban Management Centre (UBC),supported by Surat’s Municipal Corporation (SMC), provides a peek into the past, within the walled city which was once a melting pot of global culture and commerce. Co-authored by UBC’s founder director Manvita Baradi and deputy director Meghna Malhotra, the book is beautifully wrought and consistently appealing.

Post an introduction to Tapi town by SMC Commissioner Ms.S.Aparna, the book begins with Surat’s extensive dateline which goes way back to 300BC, when it was known as Laat Pradesh and proceeds to its position as the best performing JnNURM city in present times. This documentation goes far deeper to the core within; providing Surat’s history to the significance of data.

An expansive study of structures within the old walled city,’At the Core’ brings forth the expressive embellishments on Surat and Rander’s listed buildings of heritage value zooming in on about 2,417 from the 4,450 listed by the Surat Municipal Corporation.

Photographed by the staff and associates of UBC, the pictures provide an opportunity to soak in at ease intricate wood carvings within the timber and teak from Burma and Dang which were treated to withstand weather. While locals will instantly be able to recognize and relate to these, captions of locations would have been a helpful hint to tourists.

A handful of black and white aces which are in a class of their own have been clicked by Surat’s legendary photographer V. N. Mehta and have been generously shared by his great grandson Rajesh Mehta are fabulous and reminiscent of the city in the early and mid twentieth century and have successfully captured the essence of Surat’s spirit and spunk

The architecture within the inner city influenced by Arabesque style from the Mughal period to European and Colonial style combined with traditional style and skill of local workmanship displays genius craftsmanship within structures which now look dilapidated at first look. But then, lets not forget, this city has survived fires and floods, ravaging and plague and still stands tall.

From secret catacombs in basement of the Nagarsheth‘s haveli which were a safe passage to the river banks during the Maratha raids to stained glass window panes and Art Deco styling with skylights that brought in the sunlight with row houses that ran side by side from ornamental ‘otlas’ (front porches) upto service entry ‘vadas’ (backyards).The intermingling of ancient and modern fresco and design is visible in a wide and vast variety in segments of the city where people of privilege resided. The built heritage suggests the then veritable economic boom in a city which by no means has ever had a sluggish economy.

Enriched by ancient maps and paintings provided from the British Library Board to modern day satellite visuals,it documents the ‘Sheharpanah’ and ‘Alampanah’,Surat’s old inner and outer city walls along with its twelve entry gates.Since Rander was the Southern tip of Bharuch at the time this book chronicles in, it has been named separately .
Unlike Ahmedabad, Surat and Rander do not have any structures by Le Corbusier but, its orderly grid of sheris, majestic ovaras and jharokhas, artistic chabutras and cemeteries, lofty fort, intricately carved mosques and temples are proof enough of the finest architecture of its time in a city which was influenced by maritime trade and was cosmopolitan centuries ahead of the rest of India.

‘At the Core’ packages all that and more while simultaneously weaving the warp and weft of history, the wealth of which is as rich as the kinkhwab and brocade woven within its heritage structures.

Girls just wanna have fun

2011-03-06T22:36:00.000-08:00

The world will celebrate the 100th anniversary of International Women's Day tomorrow, a movement begun by efforts of women in the West who paraded demanding equal voting and working rights. It was the tragic ‘Triangle Fire’ in New York city on March 25, 1911 which took the lives of 140 immigrant Italian and Jewish working women that drew significant attention to the state of work conditions and labour legislation which became the focus of ‘IWD’.

While ladies in the West were fighting for their rights through the 20th century, Indian women were fighting for Independence among whom Usha Mehta, a Surti woman, stood out for her bravery against the British system.

Born on 25th of March,1920, Mehta met Gandhiji at the mere age of seven where she was influenced by the simplicity and self dependence ashram style, an attendance at his meeting in Olpad inspired her enough to form a team of children who fought for freedom with all their might in a non violent way in 1928 ,shouting ‘Simon go back.’ The boy gang called themselves ‘Vaanar sena’ (monkey army), so the girlie gang named themselves 'Manjar sena "(cat army). They traded their play time to sell Khadi from door to door, distributed clandestine bulletins, carried messages to prisoners and also picketed at liquor shops discouraging alcoholics from buying booze.

”It was not child’s play, but the police could not put us under arrest and we were excited to do our bit for the country.” Reminisces Leelaben Parekh, 92, an ex social worker, who would picket with her gang of girls at shops near the Bhagal crossroads.

The girls dressed in tri coloured.Green blouses, Red petticoats and White chunnis made from Khadi;these’ live flags’ were put together by their mothers and grandmothers and would sing slogans which were their only weapons,”Ae policewalloh, chalao lathi, chalao danda; jhuk na sakegaa apna jhandaa”

During the civil disobedience movement in 1930, 30,000 Surtis greeted Gandhiji.Women in the old walled city decorated streets with marigold flowers to greet Gandhiji and his followers. Though he had asked men to participate in the Satyagrah, women became mass participants of the freedom movement for the first time, thousands participated .In Zareer Masani's ‘Tales of the Raj’, Usha Mehta noted how,” Even our old aunts and great aunts and grandmothers used to bring pitchers of salt water to their houses and manufacture illegal salt and then they would shout at the top of their voices,’ we have broken the salt law!”

United Nations secretary general Ban Ki-moon has congratulated our creed and announced that this year’s agenda for International Women’s day focuses on education, training, Science and technology,” Cell phones and Internet can enable women to improve the health and well-being of their families, take advantage from income earning opportunities, and protect themselves from exploitation and vulnerability.”

Surat’s gutsy gal Usha Mehta used technology to protect the country from exploitation and vulnerability way back in 1942.After being the first to hoist the Tri colour on August 9th that year along with Aruna Asaf Ali at Gawalia Tank ground which was rechristened August Kranti Maidan, Mehta set up the Secret Congress radio with the help of friends which kept Indians in touch with the thoughts of freedom leaders.

On the 14th of August when almost the entire Congress leadership was jailed after Gandhiji’s speech,Usha Mehta’s voice resonated through the country .The first words that India heard were hers ,”This is the Congress radio calling on 42.34 metres from somewhere in India.”

When this 22 year old was later arrested for the same, she fearlessly refused to lie in court in spite of knowing it would have helped her escape conviction. So petrified were the Britishers by her chutzpah for freedom that even when this petite five feet tall was hospitalized, they would have four policemen guarding her from escaping.

For many young women like her, the Gandhian civilian disobedience movement provided an alternative to conventional marriage and domesticity. Miss.Usha Mehta was the first political prisoner to be released in free India and she was bestowed with Padma Vibhushan.a promoter of Eco friendly cottage industries, she believed the strength and art of our grannies and mothers were what would bring us progress. Her dream was that India transform from “Swarajya to Surajya”.Her nephew,director Ketan Mehta who has given us aces like ‘Bhav ni Bhavai” and ‘Mangal Pandey”has a home made script of one of India’s bravest hero.

2011-02-24T04:12:00.000-08:00

http://www.timescrest.com/society/coolie-number-1-4814

2011-02-14T18:34:00.000-08:00

MIRZA GHALIB IN GUJARAT
Ashleshaa Khurana

On 15th of February, 1869, the greatest flag bearer of ‘Rekhta’-Urdu poetry, Mirza Asadullah Baig Khan better known by his non de plume ‘Ghalib’ passed away in poverty at his haveli in Bullimaran,Old Delhi.

Although he had never set foot in Gujarat, Ghalib had very strong liaisons with the Mir community in the state; his pupils and patrons with whom he kept in constant touch via his beautiful penmanship. According to him, communication through letters meant “sau kos se ba-zaban-e-qalam baatein kiya karo aur hijr mein visaal ke mazey liya karo” (Keep writing even from a hundred miles afar and keep alive the joy of meeting even in separation.)

“While Ghalib’s poetry in profound Persian had a divine connect, the prose in his letters focused on human relationships.”, points out veteran Urdu literary critic,Varis Hussain Alvi,retired Head of the Department,St.Xavier’s College, Ahmedabad, “Hence the text not only reads in simple Urdu but also in a very casual and conversational manner. His fondness for his disciples was remarkably obvious within his correspondence. He always addressed them as ‘beta’ or ‘dost’.”

In his book “Mirza Ghalib and the Mirs of Gujarat” author and direct descendant of the Nawab of Surat, Mir Jaffar Imam shares with readers sixty one letters addressed by Ghalib to patrons and students in Surat and Baroda. Among his favorite patrons was H H Nawab Mir Jafur Alee Khan of Surat. Ghalib saw a role model in the Nawab who, like him belonged to a military background and protested against the Britishers .He described the Nawab’s lineage as”Een Silsila Az Talae Naab Ast/ Een Khana Tamam Aftab Ast “(this family has sprung from the mine of purest gold, like the radiant Sun, it illuminates the globe) Upon the Nawaab’s death in 1863, Ghalib grieved deeply and wrote a Persian couplet in his honour.

Ghalib’s disciples in Gujarat wrote under the pen names of Sayyah, Wafa, Jadoo and Mayal.On being invited by Sayyah, his favourite Shagird, to Surat for a celebration. the master of mellifluous verse known for his rueful sense of humour wrote back how in his old age “Aana mera Surat tak kisi surat haaiz imkaan nahin” this lover of wine, women and song then added,” In Bombay and Surat English wines are available and if I would have come there and attended the celebrations, I would have drunk them”

Another verse written in praise of Mir Gulam Baba Khan’s initiative to educate the girl child ran thus, when translated, “The Begum’s school –going is a blessed event, made possible by the Nawab’s luck and pluck; as it is to further the Noble cause of learning, Let it bring for all a reign of joy profuse!”

A hundred and forty two years after his demise, Ghalib lives on in the hearts of Gujaratis.”One of his most oft quoted ghazals ‘Na tha kuch toh Khuda tha, kuch na hota toh Khuda hota, Duboya mujhko hone ne, naa hota main toh kya hota…..’ was a favourite with the Mir of Kamadhia, Gujarat”, says music writer Adil Bhoja,”interestingly, its last couplet runs, “Hui muddat ke Ghalib mar gaya, par yaad aata hai, woh har ek baat pe kehna, Ke yun hota toh kya hota.”
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/surat/Ghalibs-Gujarat-connection/articleshow/7497462.cms

ode to undhiyu

2011-01-28T19:06:00.000-08:00

http://www.timescrest.com/life/gujarats-winter-food-4676

2011-01-11T22:15:00.001-08:00

http://www.timescrest.com/life/twelve-months-of-divas-and-dates-4453

2011-01-11T22:10:00.000-08:00

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2011-01-03T21:58:00.001-08:00

ONE FOR THE ROAD

The Surat police came under some unfair criticism last week over the written warnings of ‘dos and don’ts’ that they distributed to private farm owners, regarding hosting a New Year’s Eve party which might turn out to be an ‘out in the open affair’ in Tipsy town.

Surat officially has the highest amount of permit holders as well as largest groups of Alcoholic anonymous members in dry state Gujarat and there are no prizes for guessing whether it tops the list of tipple towns that turns bootleggers into billionaires.

The caution practiced did not go down well with the ‘khai piney jalsa ‘loving Lalas. In fact, post the New Year’s revelry itself, a committee of concerned ‘Pi loon’ party members was set up as mission Tequila Sunrise, at 8 in the morning near the Chamunda chai kiosk, station branch ,by Mr.Magan Batla and Aunty Batli- also known as the messiahs of Madeira.

‘This is extremely unfair”, said Mr.Batla,”after completely ignoring us last year and concentrating on just one particular farm, the law keepers in Lalaland banned us from all farm parties this year. Look at the newpapers, it’s the first of January and we have absolutely no coverage. This is preposterous, I say! “

“Actually they were just doing their job,”pointed out aunty Batli, in an effort to calm down her anger fermented spouse.” It’s not personal; they were just following instructions from the top.”

“I wonder who heads these kind of operations”, Ms.Notorius Narangi, a new member pondered aloud,” I mean, what exactly do they ask the policemen to do, to keep us away.”

“It’s kind of complicated,” said Mr.Pehli Dharno, a senior member of the BB committee (bevdi batli, not Blackberry, silly!)” there is no fixed pattern or timing. It is similar to an income tax raid. One can be raided convicted at any time, day or night completely unawares and be tongue tied while the operations are on.”

“This time it was very derogatory,” pointed out Ms. Mehka Mahua, the sensitive soul,” Besides the official warning about us not to be seen around farms, private plots and terraces etc, the apartment where I reside was visited and a bunch of kids were asked to tone down the party volume lest the dance party sounded like a ‘bob’- bring you own booze affair.

“Should we conduct a march in protest?” questioned the dignified Malts, NRBs (non resident batlis) who were visiting town, incognito for the occasion,” we feel so helpless and hurt.”

“Oh! Look at you all, sounding so much like fizzled blasts from the past,”inturrepted Puavo Pappu, the new kid on the block,” I say this year’s New Year Eve has been one of the best ever. Not only have we managed positive page 3 coverage but also have officially ringed in the New Year with ‘Cheers!’”

And even as all the other club members dropped their jaws in amazement, wondering whether they were zonked or whether Pappu Pauva had turned too potent for his own good, the rebel without a pause proudly explained, “Look at the magnificent photographs that the leading dailies have printed .Almost all of Surat was out on the roads, denizens enthusiastically blasting their music systems; and while they savoured their favourite kebabs, tikkas,eggs,parathas,biryanis and ponk while hosting the biggest Moon burn party right out there on the roadsides, what do you think was helping most of them wash it all down in high spirits?”

Needless to say, the men in khaki were instantly forgiven and Pappu Pauva got a standing ovation, besides being anointed head of public relations for the new ‘Pi Akkad club.’

Tapi town known for its industries and prosperity, has begun the next new decade on a very positive note.I mean ,what better words could flow more mellifluously from the Surti lala’s mouth than happily proclaiming ,”Car-o-bar-achha hai !”.

2010-12-05T21:03:00.000-08:00

RESPECTED VIP, KINDLY RSVP

Dear VIP (very important politician),

Heartiest congratulations mister minister, from all us Surtis of this sparkling diamond city! Your contribution to our town has been quiet unequivocal and praiseworthy, in lieu of which you have been chosen to inaugurate our eighth flyover.

Built at a cost of Rs.59 crore, this 962 meters long piece of architecture is ‘Hors de prix’-priceless, because of the fact that not only did we uproot our signature mini Eiffel tower for it but also that denizens of an age group that ranges from kids upto the ready to kick the bucket kind, residing around it went through several sleepless nights so that it could be constructed in good time.

Many a night, beyond 1 a.m in the mornings, when the noise got unbearable and disturbed ailing elders, board exam students, pregnant mothers to be, newly born infants and us all, most of us dialed 100 to place a complaint at the Umra police station in vain, as we were promptly told to grin and bear the drone till the wee hours of the morning since, “flyover publicna sukh maatey baney chey, jetlu jaldi bani jay, public ne laabh thay.”(The flyover is for the benefit of the public, the earlier it is constructed, the better)

While the citizens of this area have sacrificed their sleep and are waiting to exhale with a sigh of relief to breathe easy, there are other Surtis who have sacrificed sweat,burnt petrol and boiled blood while trying to maneuver their vehicles with extreme difficulty on the rain ravished pot holed single track lanes, desperately awaiting the flyover to take over the problem of saving precious time, if not kilometers by smoothly branching out traffic.

School buses and the bachha brigade that rides on them are looking forward to return home earlier, Ambulances and fire brigade rescuers hope to reach their destinations faster, travelers to and from the airport where the lone flight arrives and departs during busy traffic hours within the town are looking forward to the brisk connectivity, as are railway passengers who will be able to access the station sooner. Surtis, who regularly saunter out on Sundays in search of the Arabian Sea, are looking to fly high over Parle Point’s first and only flyover that exists in this part of the town.

Since Diwali, we await the inaugural of the same and while officials are still non committal about the D date, we are sure you would know better about the reason why the same has been indefinitely delayed and postponed.

We Surtis are known to treat our guests like gods-Atithi Devo Bhav is our motto and out of habit, we shall tend to tempt you with our winter goodies such as Undhiyu, Ponk and Salempak.

Kindly take this request in right earnest and request your office to provide you a date so that you may grace the occasion of the Parle Point flyover’s inauguration with your august presence this December, so that we may all have a happy new year.

Truly, your sincere Surtis.

P.S.-While we make the best hosts, the average Surti does not care who takes the credit of this bone of contention between man and minister, because the priority here is about facility to, for and by the public, which was the original purpose. With our past record of inaugurating the Amroli bridge by ourselves and the present rumor of a Facebook campaign to walk over the flyover, hurry before we banish the barricades!

2010-11-03T22:53:00.000-07:00

Awaaz Nichey, This Diwali

A recent study in New York has showed that loud noise features high in the list of ‘Everyday things that can kill you.’

The thumping, pounding, honking, wielding, cutting, jutting, digging, building, filling, constructing along with a zillion other noises that we denizens are unwillingly subjected to as part of an accepted curse of city life is partially responsible for stress, blood pressure, insomnia, hearing disorders and many other health woes that turn us into weaker humans than we are, that too without us as much as realizing the same.

With the near completion of the Parle Point flyover, as we got to print, suburban Surtis are set for peaceful slumber, or so they think. After months of cement ,dust and the most thunderous thumps entering their homes day in and night out, they are in hope of experiencing nights as they once knew them-all peace and quiet. But, are we really in for some silent bliss just yet?

Am afraid, not. Via the recent sale of vehicles worth more than Rs.6 Crores on a single day, supposedly auspicious, Tapi town will be witness to a roaring road wave as 2-3-4 wheelers rage through the already conspicuous lanes within the city. Pot holes be damned, Surtis are now used to spending anything from 20 to 45 extra minutes commuting on roads that could put dirt bike racing to shame. Accompanied by constant blowing of horns and musical tunes that go off when cars reverse, which are way above the recommended decibel level that invade the human ear. For all you know, we might even have special new classes to teach the art of delicate maneuvering the metal catacombs formed on our not so full of mettle roads.

While the honking orchestration continues at crossroads during the day, along with brain numbing mobile ring tones that blare off catching you absolutely unawares, we now have news of some super sales of firecrackers which seem to have broken recent records of recession. Now really, tell me, does this love for ‘fatakdas’ (firecrackers silly, not a slang for good looking males as in ‘fatakdi’ for girls) generate from the fact that they are known as ‘darukhana’, I mean what’s the addiction to the kind of intoxication they are known to generate-flash of light accompanied by deafening sound resulting in toxic smoke and rubbish that’s strewn upon lanes that have seen better days, ages ago.

With innumerable unlicensed kiosks of crackers having sprouted up around Tapi town, God alone knows how much risk we are subjecting our children to while officially allowing them to fire up gimmicks-most of which are prepared by lesser fortunate children. Speaking of whom, isn’t it about time we grew up from the fact that the success of your past and future business year is not all about which lala’s loom crackles the longest (no pun intended).

Just as the speeches by Shiv Sena Supremos were monitored for their decibel capacity by an NGO –Awaaz in Mumbai recently, methinks it’s about time that our ‘Lalaland’ got a dose of the same medicine. Any surveys within Tapi town would be sure to show our eardrums shouting out loud for help.Surtis-never known to be subtle in their style, need to make an effort to value the strength of silence. And a great way to begin would be precisely at this time of the year; by having a fantastic Diwali and a fabulous New Year with double the fun and half the noise. Let’s celebrate with awaaz nichey, what say?

Tapi town tattle- Bus, stop!

2010-10-28T22:42:00.001-07:00

New Answers To Old Questions Anyone?

No sooner has the brightest moonlit night of the year passed; with Surtis gorging out on the Sharad Poonam and Chandipadva night that the agenda for the next set of festivities during the forthcoming fortnight has been set.

Social Surtis who qualify as official tattlers around town are armed with their usual questionnaire to attack the unassuming common man /woman /child. It is not as if these questions have been inspired by the new season of” Kaun Banega Crorepati’, rather it revolves around the theme of ‘Kyaa kareyga crorepati”?

Like, no matter how high up in the social ladder you are, you will be asked,”Diwali ni safaai thay gayee?”(Have you cleaned up for Diwali?) If you are left frazzled wondering what is it about this routine of” cleanliness is next to Godliness ‘during Diwali, well, its just an age old custom practiced by our ancestors to clear away the previous year’s waste, gathered with squirrel like skill. Unused and used goods now rendered useless will be presented with philanthropic pride to staff members who eagerly help out in this tedious routine. Often things like, clothes, utensils, cosmetics, toys etc which have seen better days, come tumbling out of lofts and closets. While some find better use in a lesser home, other unfortunate stuff will be re-bundled and loaded back up there for next year’s spring cleaning season. Once you have managed to answer that your home is already clean and does not need to be de-cluttered, you will be given a dirty look with an unconvincing nod saying ,’amaarey tyaa toh karvij padey .”(We have to do it.)

Up next you will be attacked by, “Diwali maa shu karo cho?” No really, now tell me, ever since lord Rama returned to Ayodhya,Indians have been celebrating it by –lighting lamps,feasting,wearing new clothes and, after the advent of crackers ,bursting the same. The good part about this question is that you need not answer it; the person who has asked it will then immediately let you know about his/her plan on spending the festival. Be ready to be inundated with an endless shopping list which will feature nothing other than the routine, a grand announcement of how much moolah is going to be burnt up in from of ‘aatashbaaji’by children who know no better (men included), how the atrocious present market rates of all precious metals is not going to hinder the lala’s homemaker from burning a hole in his pocket –Dhanteras being the rescue excuse, how the hardworking lala is going to go in for a reincarnation in the wardrobe to replace crisp linen shirts with ,well ,more crisp linen shirts.

Which brings us to the last and the most entertaining question of them all,”Diwali maan kyaa jao cho.” (Where are you off to, this Diwali?) .No matter what destination you say, you will be told ‘oh there! We went there 4-6-9 years ago. You will be then given an in-depth info about your destination with more zest than the travel agent. Even if the location was visited a decade ago, you will be told about what to do and where to eat and what to shop for, as if the world has come to a standstill since then and that city or country has been frozen in time. God forbid if you answer,” we are not traveling this year’, thou shall then have to lend ear to listen to extensive travel plans of the person who questioned you. Including what food they are going to carry along on the journey. Which is not a bad deal; actually, you could trot the globe with a Surti’s sense of imagination.

2010-10-28T22:40:00.001-07:00

FESTIVE FINGER FOOD FARE

The spirit of festivals in countries around the earth revolves mainly around its traditions and traditional food fare. Surat being no exception enhances its sense of celebration with home made goodies that disappear as soon as they are dished out.

Migrants who have waded into the city for a better monetary future often wonder why the average Surti, however wealthy , is so proud of something as simple as ‘Diwali nastas’ and displays it with such maternal pride. Over time, these very same outsiders not only get hooked on to the tasty treats but more often than not end up imitating the trend.

Now that the marigold strewn lanes of Tapi town have been witness to the crispy fafda and crunchy jalebi fervor of Dussera, Surtis are all set to devour sinfully smooth gharis as they swoon below the Chandi padva moon. The week after which, woks and pans in domestic kitchens will be sizzling with savories.

The easy to make ready to fry last minute versions that are commercially available might give instant relief to many Surtis who are mental slaves to the festive favourites but these packed to fry versions wilt in comparison to the heavenly home made treats. The successes of these receipes lie in the purity of their ingredients as well as the exact tactfully measured amount from granny’s days, which have been rolled down the ages.

Uptill the 1960’s, Surtis often got their own custom made batch of nankhatais baked at local bakeries, by providing their own wheat flour, sugar and ghee to small time bakers who made tray full of these sweet cookies and marked them according to the orders placed by segregating them with different stones! Variations in these were the ones prepared from plain flour, sooji and milk, topped with almonds.

The original Diwali treats of Tapi town are the Ghooghras- which are basically hand made plain flour dumplings deep fried in clarified butter stuffed with minced milk mawa, embellished with dried fruit and nuts, with a hint of cardamom.

The flaky ‘cholafali’-a spiral of fried chola and udad dal twists sprinkled with a sudden burst of powdered spice are originally from Ahmedabad, where kiosks sell this preparation as a tea time snack around the year.

The ‘mathiyas’-a melt in the mouth version of fried papad made from the flour of math and udad dal are an innovation from Patels of Anand and Vadodra from where till date the best versions of these in an uncooked form are driven into town.

The ‘chakris’ –swirls of spicy wheat flour bound with fresh butter crunchies , that are known as Murrukku down south in their rice flour versions also have a new fancy avatars in chatpata ,roasted soy and bajri versions which of course are no threat to the evergreen sesame dotted originals.

Along with these main show stoppers, palates will also be pleased with thapdas, kharkhariyas and suvalis making it a cracker of a package that tastes as terrific as it sounds.

With the changing times, Surti gals who run non commercial ventures from homes have polished up their culinary skills to present new goodies to treat the town with.Rakhi Dhamanwala the pioneer of the rich and famous cheese samosas will be conjuring up diet friendly desi dry snacks, while the naturally gifted gourmet Sonia Sahni will be belting out sensuous sinful brownies that are laced with international chocolates. The effervescent charmer Cheena Bhatia has plans to present Mint, Toffee, Truffle and other exotic chocolates in pretty packaging.

Surat sure seems set for a sugar and spice and all that’s nice season ahead.

2010-09-20T22:32:00.001-07:00

EAT, PRAY, LOVE

Hollywood hottie Julia Roberts’s new flick may or may not hit bull’s eye at the box office in India, but the truth is, Surti’s have been living on this mantra, as a way of life; especially so, in these past few fortnights .

The’ Adhik maas ‘(extra month, not fat, silly) of the Hindu calendar year, insured many a festival to intermingle with the faith and festivity dates of another. And, Tapi towners have been religiously following the regime of ‘khai, pi ne jalsa karo ‘(eat, drink and make merry), even as they prayed all the way, doing so.

The Shravan month was observed with the obvious absence of foodies at all public eateries, contrary to popular belief, fasting in Surat is more like feasting. Surtis stuck to the rules of eating one meal a day which was more like an all inclusive fare from sherbet to shrikhands.Also, the Ghanchi, Rana and Khatri communities in town believe that Shravan is the month when “fartu nahi khaavanu pun tartu khavai” (don’t consume that which roams, but do consume that which swims) A special fish breed called ‘Modar’ known for its rich fillet of eggs is a pricey delicacy that’s part of Surti Shravan must haves.

Even as Shravan threatened to fizzle Iftar’s sizzle, the holy month of Ramadan for our Muslim brothers at Chowk, Zhampa bazaar and Rander saw no dearth of enthusiast eaters. The bylanes beside the beautiful Chunarwaad Masjid in the city of mosques, where little boys run around after the evening Azaan, saw many a retired rayeez moonlighting annual festive Rangooni fare; but, the real treats are within the walled city homes where morning Sehris begin with fish shaped bread and nalli niharis simmered on a slow boil. The Sopariwallas at Shalimar Baug savour an exotic Kheema salan receipe, prepared exclusively for brekkar on Eid morning.

Early mornings also saw the Jains venture out to the derasars for ‘pratikaman’ and ‘parna’, during ‘Pajyushan, the,’ the eight days of abstinence that culminate into repentance for the misdeeds of the previous year. As they went off fresh greens, home made meals concocted via age old traditions found steam.Dal dhoklis, banana and dried fenugreek bhajiyas ,sweet and sour pancakes, made up for mini meals along with thick warm curd. The exquisite Chintamani Parshvnath temple, a treasure trove of intricate carvings that was built during the regime of Emporer Aurangzeb during 1699 A.D.is by far one of the most precious pulchritudinous premise of architecture from that age. Well visited during these pious days, it is surrounded by kiosks that sell dry snacks such as gathiya, paasa, fulwadi, kharkhariyas that make for yummilicious tea time serves.

The Krishna Janmashtami and dahi handi events sailed smooth, with people power fuelled enthusiasm; albeit, some unfortunate souls were caught with a full hand, so to say.

Even as the D day for all of the above was shared with the advent of the God of fun things-Ganesha, there was a harmonious, happy mood flowing around town. As versatile as the good God Ganesha himself is, is the cuisine that Surtis will be seen relishing around pandals put up in his glory. Grub streets around town buzz up like never before, doling out paani puri to nylon dosas to vada paav and more. Kabootar Khana’s age old replica idol as well as the ‘all that glitter, its gold’Daliya Sheri special, are the ones that witness most devotees.

German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche had once said that, “I would believe only in a God that knows to dance”, lets hope our dearest Ganesha keeps him busy up there, after all, Surtis are busy playing “Munni badnaam ‘numbers for him down here and loving it.

2010-09-05T20:31:00.000-07:00

Mareez-The Surti patient

Ghazal maestro Dr.Jagjit Singh, the voice behind Khusrau, Ghalib, Faiz Ahmed Faiz for music aficionados, believes that ’Poetry and music are not constrained by any language. Instead, each language and region adds its own to them both.’ Singh’s first song was a Gujarati playback number and his first Gujarati ghazal album is ‘Jeevan maran ek chey’-lyrics for which were penned by Gujarat’s Ghalib –Mareez.

I wasn’t adept in Gujarati poetry. The little that I knew was from childhood memories of my parents playing ‘maari aankhen kanku na suraj atmyaa’on LP.As luck would have it, I chanced upon a brilliant Mareez couplet that read as Gmail tag on a senior assistant editor’s ID.The text was tight, with a sharp message in two simple lines and it got me curious to know more. A Google search revealed a lot more than expected,at a blog put up in the fond memory of Mareez,by his children.

Educated just upto the second standered, Mareez who spent his childhood studying engines at the Surat railway station was self taught and carried dictionaries of Gujarati,English and Urdu with him to understand various texts. His interest in poetry was generated by ‘Marashyas’written on the martyrdom of the Imam Husain at Karbala.

‘Kadi maari duniya kitabon ni duniyan, nasho sthir aevi sharabon ni duniya,
Haqeeqat no shangaar, khwaboni duniya, ugey khoonthi tey gulabon ni duniya”

Although he could recite the lengthy Marashiyas of writers like Anis and Dabir that ran in many volumes, without referring to them, he unfortunately found it difficult to quote his own verses.Mareez wrote his first poem at the age of 14 and attended the mushairas held at Zhampa Bazaar with his friend, guru and guide Ameen Azad.

At 15, he was packed off to Mumbai and earned a living by working at a rubber shoe manufacturing factory. Mareez spent most of his earnings on books .From being heart broken in love; lost due to his monetary position to being a ‘mister misunderstood ‘alcoholic by the then so called critics of verse, the tragedies of his life enhanced the sensitivity of his text. Being a Surti at heart, he let his carefree and positive attitude reflect even in the most heart wrenching moments of his being.

’Kevi maja ni prem ni diwangi hashe, jyaan Mareez jevo samajdar punn gayo’

Poet Max (Mushtaque Ali Khan) Babi who excels in transcreating texts, explains why Mareez’’s works have gigantic stature in Gujarati literature, ‘A ghazal is juxtaposition, even a concoction of several stand alone couplets. The poet has to first master the rare art of writing a multi layered two liner, which is profound, Mareez, rightly called Gujarat’s Ghalib was a master at stuffing sheer philosophy into lyrics:” Jindagi no ras peevama jaldi karo Mareez-ek toh jam galtu che aney madeera ochi che” –hurry up to consume the juices of life, Mareez, for one the glass is leaking and wine is limited. “Little wonder that his words were enough to turn people euphoric and move them to tears.”

‘Jaarey kala, kala nahin, Jeevan bani jashey, maru kavan jagat nu nivedan bani jashey”

Every great work of art has two faces, one towards its own time and one towards the future, towards eternity.

Agami pedhi o ne deta hasey ae jivan, baki amara swas kei nakam to jay na (Mareez).

I began Gujarati text last month by reading Mareez, have since then been learning about life or something like that, as he knew it.

2010-08-30T04:49:00.001-07:00

Dilemmas of a Surti writer

The romance of Parle Point fell with the mini Eiffel that we Surtis prided ourselves in.

The Eiffel always was a soft corner for this writer who began penning’ Khoobsurat’three monsoons ago with’ if it’s Eiffel, it must be Parle Point”.

Over the weeks that have flown by, the response from fellow Surtis has been overwhelming and as entertaining as we all are notoriously famous for.

My siblings and I grew up in a home that had a vast library which ranged from Blyton to Gibran. My parents, fond readers themselves, believe in education from the quality of reads, more than institutions.Hence, learning literally began at home, even as my mother aspired aloud (as all mothers do) “paper maan aave evu naam karjo”, and well her wishes came true, in a way.

Today’s Khoobsurat is about sharing the queries that came in from all of you.

The Glamour-
Pretty Neighbor-Oh! Did YOU write on the Eiffel today? Journalists are paid very badly, you know?

At a party-Why do they only run your photograph and no other writer’s? Oh, you are a columnist? So, special treatment?

Via e-mail-Hiiiiiiii! Will you do frensip?

School senior –I also write, on how dirty and corrupt the bahumali is, they never run what I send. Whom did you send your article to?

Sister from USA over phone-Girl, you should always get your hair done before taking a photo! Change your photo please.

Via SMS-aapse bhi KHOOBSURAT aapke andaaz hai!

At a restaurant-Aren’t you the person who writes Khoobsurat? Your photo size changes with every article

Father-Your face looks like a weather balloon. Does Khoob-surat mean ‘lots of face”? Writing and all is fine but you are too intelligent to not do something about your weight.

Reader-I file all your articles, do you?

Husband-Where is your mind?

The Gumption

Friends-How much can you write about Surat?

Readers-Why do you write only about Surat?

Visitors-You write so much, about Surat?

Maternal grand mother-You haven’t written enough about Surat, have you?

Via email-Now that you have written about kitly tea, when will you cover the coffee hotspots?

Via sms –Can you write about khaman and dhokla and fafda and marcha with the recipes also?

Via –email-I went and ate all that you wrote in your column and put on 2 kilos in two weeks.

Via email-We are lucky to know about historical culture of town can you write more days of the week?

Via phone call-Can I meet you?

Via email-I also write, where did you learn to write?

At a kiosk-Have you written about these vada pavs yet?

Strangers-What are the advertising rates? Are there discounts for obituaries?

Friends-How could you write this about us?

Friends-How could you not write this about us?

Strangers-Will you write this about us?

Spouse-Which world do you live in?

The Guts-

Via email-Can you write more about alcohol and dry state.

Via SMS-Don’t you think you write too much about alcohol in a dry state?

I was born a Patel, but as the name up there suggests, have a boisterous fun loving Punjabi ma in law who has a social circle equal to the population of Australia. Ever so often whenever she drops in, she inadvertently finds me with my head huddled into the puter.
” Ki kardi pay hai? Jado dikho likhdi padhdi hai” she remarks fondly (what are you doing? always reading or writing) “Kinne paise mildey ne enni mehnat de?”(How much do they pay you for all this hard work?)
As I dig my head even lower in the lap top and mumble my meager means as a writer,she is shocked and says,”Hai! Enne paise mein ki honnda hai aaj kal, chad parey, chal bahar nikal, kitty join Karle!”(What happens with such little money these days? leave all this and come join a kitty).

Mr. Khurana-Do you have ANY clue about what’s going on in the house?????????????

The Glory-

Readers-Your column make us laugh and learn.

“Your column today, touched our hearts and we cried it out.”

2010-08-29T21:01:00.000-07:00

GUJARATI GHAZAL’S SURTI MISRAS

Mellifluous Mohammed Rafi once sang -‘Divaso judai na jay chhe ae jasey jaroor milan sudhi, Maro haath jhali ne lai jasey mujh shatru oj swajan sudhi.’these lyrics were penned by a Surti ghazalkaar- Abdul Gani Dahiwala and here is how Gujarati ghazals came into being .

Surat’s suburb Rander which turns festive during Ramadan is not just its cultural hotspot but runs deep in history on the literature front too. Some of Gujarat’s finest poets come from Surat and it is here that Gujarati Ghazal found its first platform.

The Persian form of poetry that speaks of languishing love journeyed to India via Urdu. Under the influence of Mughal rule, the cultural and literary spheres of Gujarat were set around the Persian language, which was then considered an official language of the state.

It is said that many Nagar Brahmins even performed the daily Sandhya-evening prayers in Persian instead of Sanskrit.Parsis, pioneers as stage actors were very well adapted to both Persian and Urdu ,hence ‘bayt baazi’-exchange of couplets ,in the afore mention languages was extremely popular with audiences which often insisted on encore of the same.

The Encyclopedia of Indian Literature (2) states that earlier poets like Dayaram and Narmad had tried their hand at ghazals but not met much success. The scene changed with the playwright Amrit Keshav Nayak, an actor, director of Urdu theatre who never failed to receive standing ovation for the quality of his work.

Appreciatation of Urdu verse found a new wave and poets penning ghazals sprouted on Gujarat’s soil.Sursinhji Takhtasinh Gohel, Kalapi, Balashankar Ullasram Kantharia, Manilal Dwivedi - who blended Sufism and Advaita thought into verse, Damodar Tripathi alias ‘sagar’ were some amongst the first.Rajkot’s poet prince Kalapi, who died young at 26 penned, Kalapino Kekarava .His tragic love life inspired text that sent young men and women in frenzy.

A ‘Muslim Gujarati Ghazal Mandal’ was formed in Rander in the 1920’s.Mushaiyaras were organized in Surat, Rander and nearby towns and poets from all over the state visited to take part and promote Ghazals.A pioneering effort to publish ghazals was made and thus, it made an entry in printed form at mushairas.Publications of ghazals contained information about the content and form of the ghazals.’Kavya Pushpa ‘was one such collection.

Some poets wrote the first misra (line) of the couplet in chaste Urdu and the second in Gujarati.Gradually the tradition was done away with and Gujarati Ghazal came into its own.

An array of composers entertained audiences amongst which Shaida with simple effective style, Bekar with humorous prose and comic compering, Asim Randeri with a romantic flair for nazm wrote Tapi tirey , Leela, Shangar, Gulchadi ;he was also the first to hold mushairas on All India Radio, Sabir who cleverly blended Sanskrit with local words, Nasim-Sagir who intermingled emotions with philosophy, Zar Randeri who also gave the first Gujarati book regarding Persian metres, and Amin Azad first to publish a ‘sabrasa’ inspired young poets.

Over popularity of Ghazals damaged its poetic value and therefore it lost its esteem in the eyes of critics. But there came a phase when a new set of poets who framed strong prose and won critical acclaim- Amrut ‘Ghayal’, Ratilal Anil, Shunya Palanpuri, Barkat Viraani, Sheikhadam Abuwalla,’Jigar’, Abdul Gani Dahiwala, a Surti born in Gopipura was a Zari embroidery businessman was known for his profound style of text .He merged human anguish with traditional and modern sensibility.His books had prefaces written by learned littérateurs- Umashankar Joshi and Vishwaprasad Trivedi.

Gujarat’s Ghalib-‘Mareez ‘was also a Surti .More on him in the next post.

2010-08-09T02:30:00.000-07:00

Dalda 13 in focus

In ten days from now, in order to commemorate 50 golden years of the photo division, a Media unit of the Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, we shall witness India’s first National Photo awards.

Amongst the four prestigious recipients for the,’ Lifetime achievement award’is India’s first lady photojournalist, Homai Vyarawalla – aka Dalda 13,a nickname that came from her year of birth, the age at which she met her husband and the number plate of her vehicle in Delhi-DLD 13.

Vyarawalla was born in Navsari on the 9th of December,1913.Her father was a Parsi stage artist with a traveling theatre company ;at a very young age her siblings and she were packed off to Mumbai for higher education.

There have been many moments in this eminent and photogenic photographer’s life, which would tell a story of their own, had she been photographed then, one wonders –

Like how it felt to be the only girl in her class and one who went on to pass matriculation.

Like what was the scene like when she first met Maneckshaw –her husband to be at a railway station?

Like what did she paint during her course at the Sir J J School of Arts?

Like what was the experience like while learning photography and processing the pictures in the dark room.

Like how did she look when she took her first pictures independently, those of the women’s club of Sir J J School of Arts, at a picnic party to the Amarnath temple?

Like what was the look on her face, when she looked at those pictures published full page, in the Bombay Chronicles.

Like how it felt to be the only woman in her field and being paid Re.1 (a big thing) in those days.

Like how she felt sharing the Rolliflex camera with her husband, as they together covered the Mumbai of the 30’s, Hospitals, festivals, beggars, cottage industries, et al.

Like how she looked ,with her practical saree and becoming hair-do, while shooting pictures as a free lancer for The Illustrated Weekly of India, when the war came on.

Like how she was perceived in Lutyen’s Delhi of the 1940’s and 50’s as she bicycled around the town which was then safe for women even at 1 a.m.

Like how she sounded when she instructed all her colleague gentlemen to behave and have ‘no hanky-panky or unnecessary smiling that could be misconstrued.’

Like what was the look on her face when she taught fellow photographers to be ‘propah’, dressed in closed collar shirts and trousers and shoes because theirs was then a respectable profession.

Like how did she react, when they nicknamed her ‘Mummy ‘; out of love and respect.

Like how she and Maneckshaw looked while sharing their plate of food (lifelong) and other responsibilities in life as a 50-50 partnership.

Like the eager expression on her face as awaited her mother in law’s signal, from the terrace across her place of work, when it was time to feed her infant.

Like how it felt to spend a night at the Kurukshetra mela,a petite Parsi armed with a large format speed graphic camera that had a composite wood ,steel and aluminum chassis and weighed more than 6 pounds.

Like how she moved around with joy and child like simplicity in the innermost core of political circles.

Like what was she looking for when she always waited even after events for an out of the ordinary shot, at times perched on a table or stack of crates?

Like how she could behave like a thorough professional and not get carried away in spite of clicking the top politicians and India’s most important historical moments.

Like how she gave up clicking after being disillusioned at the sights that changed with the times after a career that spanned from the 1930’s to the 1970’s.

Like how she looks in her new roles as those of being a carpenter, gardener, tailor, plumber, cobbler, barber, gourmet cook in order to lead the independent lifestyle she has always led.

Yes, there have been many moments so far, in the life of Homai Vyarawalla, which would have made fabulous, precious photographs. One such moment will be on the 19th of August.

Though she hates being in front of the camera, this young lady will be bringing as much as dignity to the front of lens focus, as she brought from behind it.

2010-08-01T21:13:00.000-07:00

TAPI TOWN'S TRIANGULAR TUBER TREATS

‘Samosa kyun na khaya? Joota kyoon na pehna?
Tala na tha.’-Khusrau,circa 1300.

Why wasn’t the samosa eaten? Why wasn’t the shoe worn?
Wasn’t fried (the samosa); didn’t have a sole (the shoe).

As if being featured in Amir Khusrau’s ‘Dosukhnay’, renditions in Delhi during the 13th century, participating in Ibn Batuta’s travelogues of 1334 and holding a permanent place in the royal daawat’s,’ Ain –i-Akbari’- Emporer Akbar’s gourmet spread, wasn’t enough;the 'sambusak'is still that one delicacy around which conversations revolve.

‘Samosa’ a central Asian invention - the patty notorious for prolific fillings, continues to be India’s favourite tea time treat and, Tapi town is no exception.

Since we have already done a delicious thesis on our famous ‘Mad man’s triangles ‘(gandabhai na samosa )and other such Surti treats where gram dal,yam,cheese etc make the main matter, fried within thin crispy shells; lets now take a peek within the suburban tuber treats in town.

Popularity of suburban Surat’s samosas is segregated according to the phase of a student’s life.

Kindly note that nostalgia might hit you while reading the lines henceforth.

If you were educated in institutions around Timalyawaad, Nanpura or Dutch Garden, Samosas from Kailash sweets, those spicy parcels of chopped potatoes, dotted with green peas, seasoned with cumin and spiked with garam masala must surely mean a melancholic mouthful.Kailash samosas were the brain child of the late Kishinchand Ahuja who pioneered Punjabi samosas in Surat, way back in 1966.The receipe remains an exclusive hot seller till date. Seeped in drippy, dense tamarind chutney, that makes a fine accompaniment to this crusty crudity.
Students of colleges in and around Athwalines swear by bonding over the South Indian samosa avatars dished out by perennially popular Mysore Café, privacy provider-Priya cafe and of course, the king of kiosks-Shetty who ventured into partnership with ‘Atithya.’ The deep fried filos from here consist of minced mashed tubers that have been boiled beyond limits; a slight dash of ginger -chilli, a sparse sprinkle of coriander leaves, lemon drops and sugar is what all three are commonly laced with. Served with refreshing coconut chutney (the only authentic South Indian detail in the deal), these flaky crusts disappear as soon as they are served, over chatter and chai.
Convent girls and boys who were educated at the institution of Our Lady of Lourdes, know for a fact that just as their school which was always considered ‘different’, so also, their canteen samosa - that still makes them shamelessly salivate, tastes like none other.
Samosas for Lourdes are actually made in a teenie weenie room, in a strip of a lane, exactly opposite to the Muslim Yatimkhana, that leads into the back area of what used once be Dhiraj Sons Fashion Shoppe, Athwagate. Fried in a huge wok over a kerosene stove, there is no fancy board outside to advertise these knock out morning cholesterol crunchies that are sold out by 10 a.m, max.
Here is the catch, the elderly Maharashtrian gentleman who invented these took a promise from the gen nexters of the family,”never sell these without frying, lest the secret ingredients be known.”. Hence, even people who order over a hundred pieces of these precious parcels ,have to make do with a pre fried version of pasty poha worked with potato, enmeshed with minimal ginger chilli paste and wrapped in plain flour dough.
With multiplexes on Bhatar and Dumas road, which make for college bunking hours and tuition classes on Ghodod road and Citylight area, student special samosas now have many new avatars and addresses like Agra and Shiv Shakti sweets from where they are sold out.

In Surat, it is impossible to bite into a samosa without bringing up masti filled memories of those yaari-dosti years. Friendships here have thrived on sharing these.

2010-07-15T09:39:00.001-07:00

SALIENT FEATURES OF FIFA 2010

As the FIFA fervor has now bid us adieu and the war of words between overdressed saas-bahu serials will return to family drawing rooms, it will sadly be time for some predictable monotonous drama once again.

Surtis who love to comment while watching stuff whether it’s the television screen or the silverscreen, will be silenced by the ‘dukhi atmas’ of the idiot box who always seem to be in doldrums.

Here are some salient features of FIFA 2010, as pointed out by Surtis around Tapi town, in random order-

“Vuvu jhela”

“Watte ae sott”

“First time any host country has been eliminated in the first round.”

“Aa who karey chey? (What are you doing?)”

“Oh pelaa Nicholas Anelka ne suspense kari nakhyo!”(The said player was suspended)

“I love David Beckham; hope they show more of him.”

“Maar, maar o jaldi maaaaaaar!”(Hit, hit o hit it quickly!)

“Vuvuzelas are horny trumpets”

“This is not a gentleman’s game.”

“Aa Drogba ni hairstyle haari chey, holvij na padey! (Drogba’s hairstyle is cool, needs no combing)

“O maar!........benna!@# %$&*()!!!!! Aa baaju thee marvanu hatu (errr……you should have hit it from this side)

“Where are the cheerleaders?”

“May we watch India-Bangladesh, Asia cup match?”

“Ricardo Izecson dos Santo Leite-Aa bhai nu naam kaka chey te haaru chey (good he is called kaka)

‘Jabulani’- koi Sindhi bhai ae ball banvyo chey? (Has some Sindhi brother manufactured it?)-

“Farigayo, farigayo aakho farigayo” (the ball has fully turned around)

“Brazil was the only country to have played in every world cup final till now”

“Vuvuzelas have been banned in the Wimbledon”

“Brazil nu crowd bau fine chey, nai?”(Brazilian crowd is very good, no?)

“Aa Paul punter laagey che” (Paul looks like a better)

“Don’t forget, official mascot was Zakumi-the green and yellow leapord.”

“Ronaldo is sooooooo cute!”

“My favourite part is when they exchange tees at the end.”

“So, they have never had cheerleaders?”

“Gonzalo Higuain ae tron marya” (hat trick)

“You think Dhoni’s boys must have beat Bangladesh?”

“Aa Denmark no Daniel Agger patli badlu niklo! (Has changed sides)

“Su mast disco jevo national anthem chey! (Their national anthem sounds like disco music.)

“Bet that Joachim Loew lost his baggage.”

“Paul is an octopus vulgaris.”

“Klose patigayo, red card maligayo.”(Klose is finished, has been given a red card)

“I was supposed to travel to South Africa but I don’t want to miss the Asia cup finals.”

“You think they might think about having cheerleaders in the future, if everybody insists?”

“Vuvuzelas above 100 decibels have a Saudi fatwa against them and are banned in the UAE.”

“We should hire Paul to predict Indo-Pak matches.”

“Bhaag, jaldi bhaaaaag “(run, run fast)!

“!@%$#^&&%&*()_+&&^%$$!!!!!!(BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP)

“England’s football team is as over rated as Indian cricket team.”

“Soneri boot koney makshey?”(Who will get the golden boot?)

“Maximum goals were saved by the crossbar this year.”

“Sigh! Good bye Villa”

“How I wish Paraguay had won, at least there would have been one cheerleader!”

2010-07-08T19:23:00.001-07:00

OCTOPUS ORACLES –Why Paul should pick India.

Now that Paul’s pappu has been passed, following Joachim Loew’s labour lost, Germany for certain would want nothing to have to do with its prized celebrity, once a soothsayer, now a tentacled terror.

With his prediction for a Spain win itself, this prophet’s fate was sealed. In a catch 22 situation, he was all set to be fried, had his choice of clam been proven wrong.

Had they emerged winners, maybe the German’s would have spared him out of joy, maybe not. Fact remains though, that it’s ‘suddenly Paul’ season.

While my animal lover friend from Bangalore sent a text to join the ‘save Paul and adopt him as a pet ‘campaign, I hear animal rights activists want to know if Paul is getting his dues along with all the undue media attention. They also want to know who will be handling the international star’s Face book and Twitter accounts, lest his feelings are hurt.

Unlike the Euro 2008, where a partial Paul had wrongly predicted Germany to win against the same opponent -Spain, but the latter had conceded a win, co incidentally by the same stats-1-0; Paul’s predictions have scored a straight 6 on 6 this FIFA 2010 season.

Needless to say, with a 100% record like that, this octopus‘s face value is far more than that of Joachim’s unwashed Blue tee, which, as we all know is sure to raise a stink now.

With no real particular football stars living upto their image as spectacular sportsmen this world cup, seems like this eight legged invertebrate might just end up laughing all the way to the tank, in his bubbly spirit.

Last heard, Gujarat’s great gambler-Gaman Aekko (alias aflatoon’s) call was intercepted while he was having a quick word with Mumbai’s bookie Galabhai Shana. They were in a heated discussion regarding when they should put up an on line bid for Paul the player.

Word in the ‘shhh circle’ is that talks are on between our top international khiladi (no relation to Lalit Modi, mind you) and Germany to lower boxes that contain a flag of India and Germany each with some fine food fare in Paul’s think tank and watch the one that Paul picks.

In a country where yagnas are held for a cricket match win, parrot card readers predict fall of governments, and multi coloured stones enhance star value, Paul seems to be on the hot list of all punters.

The crawly psychic can choose our motherland and live the life of a prince, to be pampered for life. We might rename him Sant shri Pappu baba, have a temple in his name and even get him a missus on the side-an ‘octopussy ‘, so to say, a la Bond .( Paul was born a British)

Or, he could choose his fatherland and end up as the ultimate German gourmet meal. Just like the fate of the Germans in FIFA this year, either which way, the choice is his.

So, what say Paul? Are you game?

2010-06-27T22:25:00.001-07:00

ROMANCING THE RAIN

Of all the seasons that fall over Tapi town, the monsoon is by far the one that makes it most beautiful. If the skilled Sanskrit poet-Kalidasa’s cloud messenger-Meghdoot were to fly over Surat, in its fluffy state, its eye would meet many a pretty sight-

Kalidasa wrote-‘The Ashoka tree with sweetly dancing lines, the favourite Bakul tree, are near the bower of Amaranth-engirdled Jasmine vines; Like me they wait to feel the winning power, of her persuasion ere they blossom into flower.’

As Surat’s ancient architecture from Dutch to English to Mughal stands freshly awashed; most roads are carpeted with fresh blossoms from blazing Gulmohars, beaming Amaltas and in case you are on the right side of the road, pretty Parijats.

In spite of its urbanization, there still lie many quaint streets in Surat where one could enjoy a walk while it drizzles; like the by lane in Sarjan society which overlooks the garden is one closest to nature, like the main road by Panas agricultural farm where two wheelers now zip zap zoom has the most beautiful road sheltered by many a tree, like the green tunnel formed by a foliage of branches that entwine overhead outside the Umra police station.

The sweet, damp full bodied fragrance of mother earth will tempt bi-cyclists to bring out their wheels and race towards where land meets the Arabian sea, for the more adventurous, the serpentine Palsana route will serve the purpose for racing the rain.

Children who have now grown out of paper boat days will splash out into a wet and wild football or volleyball bout .As an audience of lasses below bright coloured umbrellas cheer on with their effervescent and unabashed Surti charm.

Kitly kings will be concocting up misty mint flavored tea from textile market’s famous foamy delight-‘Tim tim ‘as onerous laborers run around with rainbow coloured goods to good old Ghodod road’s cutting chai which will help wash down local goodies.

Foodies by nature, Surtis will be seen at all monsoon hotspots around town, relishing hot steamed khichu drizzled with oil and decorated with a generous sprinkle sesame seeds ,chutney lined tomato bhajiyas freshly fried by the ancient anchor at Dumas and pepper laced Sarasiya khajas from Ambaji road. As ash flies, floating out with the aroma of freshly roasted corn on the cob by road side kiosks, run by robust women from villages like Vesu, Bhimpore in bright coloured clothing, fanning the charcoal fire from below plastic hoods that do little to keep them from getting drenched by the downpour.

One could go out and enjoy the weather, view it from the various bridges that connect us to the blue horizon yonder, where palms swish and swoon to the tunes of the monsoon slate.

Just in case you would rather stay dry within the comfort of your home, curl up with a cup of hot cocoa and a great book like ‘Chasing the monsoon ‘by Alexander Frater.Or, better still, soak yourself in the rich text of ‘Meghduta’by Kalidasa what better weather than this to enjoy one of the most romantic poetry ever written -

‘Where from the Moonstones hung in nets of thread, great drops of water trickle in the night. When the Moon shines clear and thou, O cloud art fled to ease the languorous of the women’s plight who lie relaxed and tired in love’s embrace tight.’

2010-06-16T20:02:00.001-07:00

TAPI TOWN ON A TICKER?

Suryaputri Tapi-the Sun God’s daughter, originates as a pure ,bubbly spring ,full of life in the dense tribal district of Betul, in Madhya Pradesh from a place called Multai.Its name originates from the Sanskrit name Multapi.

While it is the life line of our town and the pride of the city’s rich glorious past, present day sees it contaminated with worst ever effluent industrial waste, sewage drains that flush out in it, algae and river bed vegetation which act as natural polluters and other harmful organisms dumped in by humans and animals.

Our civic body, the SMC, was amongst the first in the country to acquire standards to process and distribute quality water in required quantity on time and implemented the ISO 9001-2000 certificate to improve quality of potable water way back in 2004. Many an anti pollution drives and campaigns have been carried out to try and keep our river clean; sometimes after being alarmed over high levels of pollution or on other occasions, due the discovery of strange red organisms in the water treatment plant at Varachha water works.

The on going, month long Tapi Shudhhi karan campaign is by far the most aggressive and well attended ‘clean our river waters’ drive that we have experienced. In addition to correcting the damage done by the ‘khadis ‘that pour in the polluting factors, well meaning denizens and the civic body have joined hands to make sure that the Tapi stays protected from humans and animals that pollute its ovaras and ghats,with plastic, waste. The campaign will end on 27 June.And, in the rare case that we responsibly carry on the good work; things might just be back to square one or even worst, by this time next year.

Along with being the brightest jewel in the industrial capital of the country, it comes with little surprise that our city has also qualified as being one of the highest polluted. As deadly messages in the form of dead fish have often washed ashore, littering our beaches, dying cattle have had meek protesters and sniffing the gaseous air beyond Piplod as the evening sets in has become a way of normal life for us.

With over 400 textile processing units and more than 600 odd chemical factories that fume, it is little wonder that the presence of Carbon Dioxide in the air is more than 100 microgram per cubic meter than the permissible presence of below 80 micrograms.Yes, we took a giant step with converting our means of public transportation on road into CNG dependant vehicles but our air has worst enemies. As does our soil that has been found to be heavily contaminated with high levels of metals and toxic wastes.

The Gujarat Pollution Control Board has served a general improvement notice this year to industrial agencies. Some of its rules state that ‘All sources of water consumption have to be informed to the GPCB,Effluent discharge like ETP,LETP,FETP etc shall be allowed only through flow meter indicating correct quantity being discharged, any increased generation exceeding CTE(NOC0should be reported immediately, effluents are to be discharged only from authorized points ,only authorized fuel is to be used and any disposal of waste via pipeline connections,leakages,spillage,by pass,burying,underground or outside discharge is illegal.
The notice also states that while law abiding units can enjoy the rights of business and good infrastructural facilities provided by state government, wrong doers are warned that any illegal activities will be punished with ‘dire consequences’-the parody of the situation is, the wrong doers are punishing us already, with ‘dire consequences’.

As the mudslinging and finger pointing for the responsibility of Bhopal-the worlds worst industrial disaster reaches its zenith, lets learn from it and leave a better future for our children to live in ,lest we be known as the Andersons of our times.

2010-06-16T20:00:00.000-07:00

SUMMER TEMPEST

They say when you have nothing else to write about, write about the weather, so, when we were under the Phet threat, this column was poised to read otherwise.

Thankfully, hurricanes have a mind of their own and are vagabond travelers with no particular route or destination in mind hence our shores were spared.

Despite the wanton change of weather plans however, mini hurricanes hit Surtis due to different individuals and issues that gave reason to Tapi towners to tattle. Hungary’s hunger and Hatoyama’s sayonara did not make it to the top list .the ones which did were-

Javier jalapeño Spanish writer Javier Moro may lack knowledge on how to drape a sari; but Surti lalas are on a desperate lookout for him .They want to request exclusive rights of patent to recreate his ‘Red Sari’. Lalas who have no clue about the writer’s past books like “Five past midnight in Bhopal’ on India’s worst apocalypse or ‘The Jaipur foot’-a man’s ability to overcome tragedy ,think that Surti versions of Moro’s red sari might just be the next big hit design after ‘Ghajini’. Meanwhile a representative of the hand that rules the country has served a notice to Javier who is protesting ‘tujhko mirchi lagi toh mein kyaa karu?’

Tambu mein gabhrahat An architectural wonder, the air-conditioned, gigantic, pillar less dome at Surat International Exhibition and Convention Centre (SIECC) was built with the purpose of providing ‘international standard facilities ‘for building better business and trade relations. But, Surat’s crème de la crème have been using it as the ‘in’ wedding venue of the season. Surat’s new, wow wedding vows venue observed a ‘vavajhodu’ (Surti for hurricane) when over a lakh wedding guests turned up to bless a parliamentarian’s blessed daughter. All roads led to Sarsana as people wanted to be in the ‘been there done that’ list.

Deedar ae Drogba While ‘it ‘couples in Surat are set to sail shores and attend Football 2010 worldcup, Ivory Coast’s ace foot is nursing an injured elbow.In a warm up match against Japan that might now cost host country South Africa a precious blow, ace striker Didier Drogba has been declared injured and unfit for FIFA 2010.Although over 20 million fans worldwide are crestfallen, Surtis are in top spirits since they will be sporting colourful tees representing all countries and would rather sight fancy film stars from Hollywood than ferocious footballers .

Limca book of records In a record event that has our extremely alert police in a puzzle, a 2 litre, Surti Limca bottle is on its way to become part of, well ‘Limca book of records’! The record breaking bottle filled with Vodka, discovered by a surprise raid squad, mysteriously found its way into the Surat sub jail, near ward number 4, which is present home to a few high profile law breakers. Of course, now that the unique bottle has been sent to the efficient forensic science department ‘results may vary ‘and we may not have a winner on our hands.Jalsa loving Surtis are, however celebrating with Hic!hic!hurrah in dry state’s rare, amazing discovery.

Thus, while the country dealt with the IPL- ‘I appeal ,yell ‘ hurricane and the state had ‘Charcha Nehru ‘to deal with, Surtis were busy with their own set of summer tempests.

Tapi town tattle Nuts over Mr.Natwarlal.

2010-06-16T19:57:00.000-07:00

NOT JUST KIDS’STUFF-The big business of little people.

Suri Cruise turned all of four years in age this summer, yet Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes are reportedly spending around 4 million dollars on her wardrobe annually! Tom had earlier stated Suri chooses her own clothes and now, even advises him on the same.

Along with a $800 Ferragamo purse neatly resting on her tiny shoulder, this mini style icon already has a fashion blog in her name, with over 5 lakh visitors and counting. Every single time the little fashionista steps out with her celebrity parents, bloggers vote –“thumbs up for the Burberry plaid dress, thumbs down for her high heels”etc.

“Keeping up with the Cruises” has become the motto of more and more Gen Xers around the world. According to online polls, fashion enthusiasts are happily kitting out for their kid’s gear, amounts that would resemble your monthly car installment or family holiday budget.

India too, has caught up with the mini fashion frenzy and Gujarat is no exception .Young, upwardly mobile parents who are brand conscious themselves are making sure they dress their dear ones in designer tags and shop for the same whenever they travel. Gujarats’yummy mummies love to dress their young guns as’ mini me s’.”When we mommies are wearing strappy branded labels, why should it be any less when it comes to kidswear?” argues Shhalu Kapadia, whose daughters aged 8 and 5 have a wardrobe as big as their moms.” I shop from Delhi for their Indian gear and my husband who travels abroad often, purchases their western out fits.

Kids couture, that was an ‘unorganized sector’ till now, has started looking up like never before. Kidology that launched this year, in Delhi is already branching out to the west due to demands. It houses designer threads in Indian and western wear to cater to tiny vouguettes and little boys aged 0 to 7. The country’s leading labels like Ritu Kumar’s ethnic fusion blend, Malini Ramani‘s tribal /glam diva look, Gaurav Gupta ‘s funky styles, Gauri and Nainika’s princess collection are hot sellers .Karina Rajpal, its director points out that,” While celebrity kids ’fashion influences a certain sector of the market, there are plenty of aesthetically minded parents who have very distinct taste, who appreciate good quality design and enjoy watching their offspring’s wearing the same.”

The weather in Ahmedabad calls for comfortable fabric, as does kid’s fashion. I use a lot of natural fabric, organic cotton, that has an extra feel of softness to the skin”, says Priti Mehta, who runs’ Bows and Buttons’ for pretty young things, at Ellis bridge.” Fit to size is an important aspect; my youngest client is 6 months old. We physically try out samples on children to make sure that the fit is perfect and provide alterations. Matching accessories like hairclips and purses are custom made to order.”

”Prices are not an issue, if the kids like something, parents happily pay for it, children have so many birthdays and functions to attend,” says Nishhka Lulla whose youngest client is one year old.” the most difficult part is getting them to be stable during measurements. Even one year olds are very conscious about the length of their dresses and the colour that they want .It is great fun designing for children since there is a lot of freedom with colours and one can be innovative with fun styles.” Having launched her label Nisshk's Barbie collection last year with a ‘mommy and me’ ramp walk, she has regular clients in crème de la crème Gujaratis like Palak and Samir Sheth’s daughter Shonaya amongst others.

Tanisha Sonpal, an NRG settled in Hong Kong states, “I have regular requests from cousins back home to shop and send kid stuff for my nephews and nieces who reside in Rajkot and Baroda .Since here we have stores of Baby Dior,Gucii,Kenzo,Marc Jacobs etc in kiddy styles.”

Meanwhile, back in Ahmedabad and Surat, cash crunched parents are also shopping at low priced shops like Clothes Rack, Just brands, for their tiny tots to stay put in the brand wagon. Play at the park has never been so stylish, as Tommy Hilfiger rubs shoulders with Burberry’s at the see saw and swings.

“Its not just the tags, comfort is prime importance,” points out Pooja Patel ,” I make it point to pick up Baby Gap jeans and fine footwear for my kids, I also like the Indian block prints on cotton shirts for my son. My daughter’s wardrobe is more Victorian and feminine, country style frocks etc.Loud colours, too much embroidery are big no nos”.

‘I shop for sports gear for my kids all over the world they always put in a request for Manchester United stuff, since they are both soccer fans. “Says Parikshit Contractor.

A lot of people who can afford good clothes found it hard to find unique clothing for children before, this sector has a big future. A retailer in Surat is preparing paperwork to approach brand ‘Burberry’s’, who have launched their miniature versions of the key pieces from their Spring Summer catwalk Prorsum Collection in India.” They stock tee shirts priced Rs.2500 onwards for kids aged one month to 14 years, dresses for little damsels that range from Rs.9000 to 11, 00, denims for boys that range from 10,000 onwards along with sneakers and ballerinas that cost 10 grands per pair.I have been in this field for 20 years now, Surtis never mind paying that extra buck for unique stuff.”He winks.

Tejus Kapadia who often travels abroad due to his business, makes it a point to book a hotel that is close to boutiques that sell branded kiddy wear, to shop for his daughters Vieha ,8 and Nayssa , 5, in between his busy meetings,” My children do not need to be celebrity kids to dress in designer tags. For me, they are the celebrities.” He smiles.

2010-05-28T22:23:00.000-07:00

SWISH SET’S NEW SKIN SINS

Popeye, Angelina Jolie, Winston Churchill and Rakhi Sawant might never end up in the same subset; but fact remains that they are all linked with ink. Tattoos play a vital part in the projection of their personalities.

Related more to punk funk, till recent years, permenant tattoos have suddenly emerged as the new style statement on the fashion circuit universally and Gujarat’s swish set is going all out to ink their attitude.

Neck napes, wrists, shoulders, lower backs, biceps are expressing personal preferences. Like Bob Dylan’s song,’ times they are a changing’, tattoo trends too are no more just a cult custom but, a widely accepted attitude, even in the middle aged groups. It’s not just the twenty somethings’ who are going in for the skin sin.” Most of my clients are professionals, in their mid thirties or more,’ smiles tattoo artist Jagruti Parmar .In the field for more than 10 years now, this boho chic promoter is known as Gujarat’s Kat Von D when it comes to tattoos.

Parmar’s studio ‘La Nina tattoos’ at Vastrapur Ahmedabad, is like a mini museum of tattoo history, the walls depict pictures from ancient Japanese body art to Jolie’s arm candy (tattoos, not Brad Pitt, silly).” 3-d and glow in the dark tattoos are very popular with the elder age group. A lot of people are getting various gods depicted on skin and since Indian gods wear a lot of ornaments, the effect in radium coloured tattoos comes out amazing. Tattoos are the only jewels that go with you to your grave. I just did a Cleopatra type replica on a client’s eye, it was a tricky task”

The Raamnamis of Chattisgarh no more monopolize the mantra sutra. Elderly Gujaratis are getting Gayatri Mantras, Hanuman Chalisas and Maha Mrityunjay jaaps permanently penned on their backs and shoulders for instant nirvana. Kavita Dave, who runs D N Tattoos at Jodhpur Satellite remarks,’ we have clients who are upto 65 years of age as well. Many come in from Saurashtra, Kutch, Baroda and some go for fancier versions of their Kul Devta.” Ahmedabad being central for Gujarat,” Even foreigners and NRI’s prefer getting their religious tattoos done here because as Indians, we are able to give genuine divine expressions for the ever popular Ganeshas and Shivji idols and innumerable options for the ‘om’symbol,” points out Parmar.

Tattoos are not new to Gujarat. The Rabari tribes of Kutch have a trend of body art called ‘chhundanas’.Many centuries old, it consists of geometrical designs and dots that is often visible in their embroidery and home décor rangoli motifs as well. Meant to adorn the skin, this definitely makes their women look sexier.

La Nina‘s tattoo artist has a client who got her boy friend’s name permanently tattooed in 7 secret places. “She adds one more every month and is married now.” Young girls commonly go in for dainty butterflies and fairies, but, the women are going in for more elaborate, serene Buddha images surrounded with exotic floral creepers and sensual snakes intertwined with dragon like creatures.” I have a phoenix on my back which signifies my character, am planning another for my ankle soon” says Sonali Desai, a young mother. ” Tattoos are the new fashion mantra for Surat’s suburbans”confirms Lavesh More, who has trained under famous tattoo artist Sameer Patange and shuttles into Tapi town every fortnight to upgrade Surat’s swish set with styles that are ‘in style ‘in Mumbai because,”Surtis always want something unique and different and are willing to pay for the fact that I never repeat the design again. I plan to permanently work out of Surat now due to the growing demand.”

Not bearing social stigma anymore, tattoos are openly flaunted with pride. It’s not just the fashionistas who are falling for the trend.” Many of my clients are doctors, they usually want one on their biceps or neck nape, they don’t mind if their patients notice it, others are patients of luecoderma or have surgery scars and tattoos help them cover the same” says Kavita.
Celebrity charisma has direct bearing on fans who risk the pain for visual pleasure. Just as Saif followed David Beckham, penning the name of the love of his life, “Alphabet tattoos are very common but also lose their charm as soon as girlfriends change. I have to play music in accordance to the mood and theme of my clients’ make ups and break ups.Ours being a dry state, there is no alcohol in take before the act unlike other towns.” giggles Jagruti.
Premal Zaveri, 44, has adopted Hrithik Roshan’s new star tattoo on his right wrist while his wife sports the same on her left wrist. ‘It gathers immediate attention at work, “smiles the textile trader,” but no one has dared ask yet. My wife is very fair skinned and also has a beautiful floral one on her back. The colours have come out wonderfully well.”
”I am planning to go shopping for more halter necks, “winks Sonal Patel., 37, from Rajkot, who has got a 3 d shadow effect tattoo done on her left shoulder that extends to the nape, “it feels sexy to get noticed for it. I am trying to get my husband go in for a Shivji one like Sanjay Dutt’s.”

While its style quotient for ladies, its all about symbols of power for the gentlemen.Al’s Tattoo studio in Bandra, Mumbai is run by four brothers .Al has done his masters in fine arts from M S University in Baroda. They cater to Bollywood stars and celebrities, back in Gujarat, Jagruti Parmar who has a TBTI certificate from New Jersey, dreams of having just one celebrity client,’I would like to make a Kohinoor for chief minister Narendra Modi, on any secret body part that he wishes to have one on.”

Box section-Tattoo trivia-
1. Tattoo comes from the Tahiti word ‘tautau’-meaning ‘to mark’
2. Numbing creams like ‘Xylocain’or ‘Prilox’ may cause temporary itchiness.
3.8 out of 10 patients bleed while getting a tattoo done.
4. Cases of improper precaution can lead to skin cancer, hepatitis or AIDS
5. Tattoos normally take upto 3 weeks to heal totally.

2010-05-28T22:18:00.000-07:00

SHREKS AND THE CITY

America and the rest of the world is going gaga over the friendly monster Shrek, falling in love with the ugly ogre, who has a kind heart of gold.Shrek is derived from the German word Shreck which means fear and terror.

Reel life fairy tales hardly come true in real life. There are Shreks all around town and here is a girlie guide to recognize and handle the same-

Party Shreks-These are the ones with the shiny shirts and slinky hair who give dirty, hairy a different meaning (no, not Clint Eastwood, dear) and go,”Hey baby, want to go for a drive?” when the DJ is playing a sensitive, soulful number. They will keep smiling no matter what your facial expression portrays. You can get away with any rude reply, since this lot is certainly deaf and definitely not looking at your eyes while speaking, if you know what I mean. Be as mean as you can be.La belle dame sans merci.

Phone Shreks-Easily entertained, these are the ones who imagine there is a princess on the other end, especially so if they have accidentally dialed the wrong number, no matter if you actually are twice their age and thrice their size. All you need is a sweet voice and, you will have them at the first ‘Hello.’ They will be stupid enough to ask ‘who is this?’In spite of the fact that you just said, ‘wrong number.’ They will redial .Most likely lot to have a degree in nose wax moulding.Silence is the best answer for quick relief and save the number, for ‘no reply’ the next time.

Train/Plane Shreks-The over enthusiastic complete strangers, who smell like they just came out of Shrek swamp, who try to strike conversations out of the blue. It could be anything, the book you are reading, to where you are going; to what your i pod is playing. They will make sure they help you with heavy luggage whether or not you need their help, will be rude to the coolies /steward and, sugary sweet to the ticket checker air hostess, going,’ji saheb,yes ma’m’for no particular reason. They will also have a strong opinion on the Indian Railways, Airways, not that they do anything to make it any better. Ignore and avoid please.

Online/Office Shreks-The Gen next of the Ogre lot. Their vocabulary will consist of constant ‘lol’, ‘brb’ and they will type to you ‘wassup dudette?”.Their face book profile will be the display unit of how ‘cool’ they looked in the gym, at their reunion, at last New Years Eve etc.They will be passionate about football, basket ball and of course cricket. Since intellectual conversation will be too big a task to handle, for these ‘instant karmayogis’, you will be asked to take some kind of stupid online quiz so that they can know you better. Give no personal details, ever.

Pre marital Shreks-The handsome yet possessive insecure lot. They will want to know what you did from the time you woke up till you slept. They will want to decide what you wear, eat and whom you talk too. It’s not your fault; it’s just that they don’t believe in themselves. This kind normally turn into Post marital Shreks with lousy eating habits, a foul mouth , along with unending complaints .Run as fast and as far as you can.Because,only fairytales have happily ever after endings.

2010-05-28T22:16:00.001-07:00

FASHIONISTA SUMMER FARE

I spent Saturday morning with my head in the freezer, dreaming about being nestled in the Himalayas, this time of the year, wishing that we had winters all around the year (not that they are particularly cold ,either).Finally after 5 minutes, temporary facial numbness made me see reason to face the heat (literally )and be sane.

Summer is here, bringing with it the dire need for all things ‘fresh’; hence, both stale food and fashion are big no no’s.

The gurus of the garment industry have stated that the colours for Spring Summer 2010 are –Tuscany, Oyester, Rose dust, Champagne, Aurora, Woodbine and Aquatic. There is no need to panic, in simple language; this just means grey, silvery grey, lilac, pink, lemon yellow, lime green and turquoise blue .You know how designers love to make it sound exotic! And, how on earth could they forget White with its quintessential charm?
Now that we have our colours in order, let’s get on with the must haves.

Flip flops-Cobblers’ best gift to heeled tired twosomes, these thongs for feet have taken an outdoorsy avatar making it the most preferred teen foot wear .Spruce up your pair of toesis with a little bling.Buy a basic pair in your favourite fluorescent colour and add a line of sheer ,tiny sequins or multicolored beads or teenie weenie snail shells.

Tank tops-Nothing makes a good pair of well fitted jeans look cooler than a tank top-the good old ganji like jersey.Salman bhai’s ganji look takes a beating when gals wear one with denims. Add glam to your spaghetti top, musclebag or tank with a colourful butterfly or dragonfly brooch near the collarbone.

Tattoos-Ever since Bollywood stars have started going for what Angelina Jolie wears on her arms (tattoos, not Brad Pitt, silly), Surtis have found the fashion trend painworthy.Suburbans are at it ,getting permanent signs,emblems,gods,serpents,dragons,flora and fauna painfully penned on their wrists,calves,ankles,shoulders and elsewhere. If you are above 18 and want to go in for one, get a temporary one and look at it for a month before going on for something that will stay on your skin for the rest of your life.

Skin -Scorched skin needs tender loving care. Avoid heavy creams which are loaded with chemicals no matter how soft they make your skin feel. Always buy a face cream with aqua as the main component. Better still; depend on good old rose water, cucumber juice, milk/buttermilk for instant relief. You could store it in a spritzer and refrigerate it, for gentle spraying on face whenever required.

Nails- Now available in Tapi town are nail colours that could put a rainbow to shame and what better weather than this to show off pretty nails. For youngsters, dabble in some do it yourself nail art by simply adding multicolored stud and locking them on with a clear nail varnish top coat. Also available now are art pens that you may use to make tiny hearts and smileys over nail paint. If you must use a new colour in a cheap product, make sure you protect your nail with a base coat of a known brand first.Ladies, kindly leave funky colours to the girlie age group please, lest you want to look like a member of the Adam’s family.

Hair-Braid, gel, and spike, do what you must to keep it out of harms way. Put it up in a pony tail with a pretty scrunchie or, plug it into a roll with a chopstick like accessory. If you must wear it loose, hold it up with a pair of oversized sunglasses.

Since you are all set now, step out and commit skin sin because nothing looks sexier than a natural tan.

2010-03-23T05:18:00.001-07:00

TAXED BY INCOME IN TAPI TOWN

So you thought that life in Lalaland was a bed of roses, eh? Well, well well, not really and certainly not in the last few days of March.

These are difficult days, with even more difficult words, poor rich lalas can’t even pronounce them properly –perquisite, deficits, assets, assessments, disclosures etc.

You see, too much of anything is never a good thing. Post the dreaded Ides of March, its show time of a different kind, when more profits might mean more loss, for a change.

No matter how much a Lala is troubled by these days of the year, year after year, it still turns out to be the same story for him.

The officers in charge have to complete a set target and every lala in town fears he and his company might be it- the flavour of the month of March.

He has to pull up his socks a little higher, mug up quick ways of explaining his tax exemption theory, how he made hay from tax free agricultural income, how he escaped paying taxes in the name of his spouse and children, how he believes in’ philanthropy begins at work’, when the officers discover the accounts in names of various employees and their family members and be answerable to all the magic bonds that he used to pocket a few rupees more, rather than part with them.

If there is anyone who is closest and most supportive to the Lalas during the month of March, it is, no, not the spouse or the other woman in his life, it’s his CA= Chartered Accountant.

The ‘see a CA’ theory is what gives the Lala some relief, if any and you will often find him cozying up more with his CA ,than his wife in the evenings .

Lalas and their tactful CAs communicate in the language of love-‘pyaar and dil’, err… make that PR and Deal. Both share a ‘deal ka rishta.’

Here is an example of what text messages between the two may read like-

Lala-Deal deke dekho.
CA-Hum deal de chukey sanam.

Lala-Isharo isharo mein deal leney waley, bataa tuney hunar ye seekha kahaan se?
CA-Jab PR kiya toh darna kyaa, PR kiya koi chori nahi ki.

Lala-Deal diya, dard liya?
CA-Deal apna aur treat parayi.

To make things worse, there is tattle within the CA circle that last minute raids in March will be carried out, so as to not give an opportunity to plan.

Officers meanwhile are pointing out ,how Lalas and Co are gaining advantage points by smart play .Figuring their ways out from taxing times ,with TOING theory-“Tax on income no ghotalo.”

It seems the fables and theories put forward each year are getting funnier and more entertaining by the year.

First timers on duty in Surat are amused at how naïve the Surti lala and his CA seem to take department to be.

Who knows, with the Surti fetish for classes to acquire new skill, we might soon have a private ‘dodge your dread session’, by appointment only.

Be rest assured, Lalas wont mind paying dearly for this one.

2010-03-17T06:44:00.000-07:00

AND.......KHOOB-SURAT,SAID THE PIRATE-
VOYAGE TO INDIA VIA CAPTAIN KIDD’S SHIPWRECK.

Ashleshaa Khurana

‘Shiver me shattered timbers ‘went reports when the 310 year old, barnacle covered, coral encrusted Quedagh Merchant was discovered, in the pristine sea waters of the Dominican Republic, 70 feet off Catalina Island.

This was no ordinary vessel .It was one that legends are made of, on the hot trail list of every treasure hunter. The Quedagh Merchant alias Cara Merchant, ship of the notorious Captain William Kidd- Scottish privateer turned swashbuckling pirate, the only one to actually bury treasure on New York’s Gardiner’s Island.

Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island and Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Gold Bug’ are some among the works of pirate lore inspired by the history of his story.

Three years down since this invaluable find, Charles.D.Beeker, Director of Underwater Science and Academics Diving program at Indiana University (IU), USA, seeks to visit Surat, India, where The Quedagh Merchant was built in the 17th century for,’ a presentation of a unique and significant aspect.’

Beeker,who recently presented the results of his research to the Museum of London Docklands, in February 2010 pledges,” I am very committed to featuring India’s maritime heritage as represented through Captain Kidd’s captured ship ‘Quedagh Merchant’this is the only example of the unique 17th century Surratt ship building technology and should be recognized for its international significance.”

Since more than 12 years now, Beeker and IU archaeologist Geoffrey Conrad have been exploring the era when the ‘New and old worlds first met’, focusing on La Isabela Bay where the first Spanish settlement was established in 1494 by Columbus.

Appointed to research the shipwreck with his team by the Dominican Republic, Beeker had confirmed its authenticity and observed, ‘When we first removed a cannon last summer, we exposed the keel of the ship. I was just shocked that the keel was still there but the reason it’s probably there is because it was teak which is resistant to decomposition.’

The reason that the ship's keel withstood stormy undersea weather was because Gujarat’s shipbuilders used technique on their timber. Teak was treated by smearing a thin paste of chunnam (lime), gum sundrac and gingelly, letting it dry for a day to turn it hard as stone. Many a ship’s keel was lined with a vegetable based tar substitute-‘dammer’ to make it leak proof, way back in those days.

Praful Wadia whose ancestral trade is boat building, constructs and supplies boats to SMC Surat Municipal Corporation states, ‘The rabetted joints of Gujaratis ship builders makes boats thrice as capable to wade waters while remaining leak proof. Called ‘Wadhrai’ joints, the joint is in the shape of an ‘N’ like loop. Special marine wax like glue, made locally is used on the joints for caulking planks, covered with cotton and clamped tight, making it leak proof. Teak from the Dang forests used in ancient ships, had heavy content of oil which made it resistant to decay in water.’

Shipbuilding is not a just a trade in the coastal towns of Gujarat, according to our ancient texts; it has been a way of life. Geographically located to have the country’s longest coastline that runs 1600 kms, trade via sea existed here since 2 BC. Lothal’s trapezoid reservoir and terracotta boat models prove that. The Mahabharata, ancient Greek and Roman books like the Batiyas and Peryaksa, African Tibu tib, all mention ports of Gujarat

European travelers of 16th and 17th centuries, Tomes Pires, Nicolo Conti, J.Ovington to name a few, have written on the master craftsmanship of Gujratees and their skills in shipbuilding. Ships built here, outshone the ones made in Europe; skillfully constructed to survive rough voyages in spite of damage to certain parts.

Aurangzeb’s navy here, had huge, 800 ton ships like the ‘Ganj I Sawai would sail out from Surat’s Meccapul, carrying Haj pilgrims to and fro.

Lovji Nusservanji Wadia, who set up the Bombay dockyard and went on to build frigates for the British, had honed his skills in his home state, in the city of Surat his surname -Wadia comes from the word ‘Wahandia’meaning shipbuilders.

During Kidd’s trial, in 1699, Kidd had testified that Quedagh Merchant was a “ship about four hundred tons in burthen made by the Surrat moors.’

Being the only pirate ship ever discovered in the Caribbean and only one of the three discovered in America, it is extremely precious to the departments of underwater -archeology, marine biology, ecology and geology. ‘Interpretation is very important to this project, as one of our main goals is to educate the general public not only about the shipwreck but also to the fragility of the surrounding marine life and their ecosystem.’ points out Fritz Hanselmann, anthropologist and research coordinator with the Office of Underwater Science.

Months after its discovery, the U.S. Agency for International Development USAID had awarded IU $ 200,000 to turn Captain Kidd’s shipwreck site and three other underwater preserves in the Dominican Republic into a ‘no-take, no –anchor ‘living museums.

National Geographic aired a documentary and put out a DVD on the discovery and study of the ship, including teak excavation called,’Shipwreck! Captain Kidd.’

In January this year, The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis (biggest in the world) sponsored a cannon weighing1500 pounds, from the 26 stacked on the wreck, to be transported to the IU’s Hoosier underwater Science Conservation Lab for 5 years of study and conservation. ‘This is a great opportunity for IU faculty and a student to obtain hands on experience during the converstion of this unique artifact that has created such international interest.’ says Beeker.

Professor Sumit Ganguly, Director of India Studies at IU, who received the’Pravasi Bhartiya Samman Award’the highest honour bestowed to an Indian abroad, from President Pratibha Patil, last year, says,’ Indiana University has an International reputation for our academic excellence and diverse International programs. Beyond the discovery of Captain Kidd’s shipwreck in the Caribbean Sea, I am pleased with the IU investigations of the Quedagh Merchant, as a unique example of 17th century shipbuilding techniques in Western India and among the most significant shipwrecks representative of this era of India’s maritime heritage.’

“People often ask me if I found any of the famous treasure on board,” smiles Charles Beeker, I point out that,” No other 17th century ships had rabetted joints with tongue in groove construction. We believe this is a living museum. The treasure in this case, is the wreck itself. The preserve will provide a treasure of sorts for people to enjoy for hundreds of years’

Someday, he hopes to sail the shores and share the true wealth of Quedagh Merchant in her homeland-India.

PRIVATEER OR PIRATE?
Source-National Geographic
Captain Kidd blurred the line between pirate and privateer. Acting originally as a government issued privateer, he was ultimately executed for piracy. By either name, Kidd left behind a legacy and a mystery. Learn more about the man behind the tales:

Captain William Kidd was the only pirate known to ever actually bury treasure—on New York’s Gardiner’s Island.

Privateers were captains enlisted by the government to hunt pirates. A privateer captain would split the booty he captured with his crew and the government.

Although he’s often depicted as a flamboyant cutthroat pirate, William Kidd was actually an accomplished sailor and a businessman of considerable means.

London’s Execution Dock served for over 400 years as the prime spot to hang pirates…including William Kidd.

While the skull-and-crossbones is a popular pirate symbol, Golden Age pirates all had their own, unique flags.

The bodies of hanged pirates were often covered in tar and hung on the shore in a metal cage called a gibbet as a warning to would-be pirates.

During the first attempt to hang Captain Kidd, the rope broke and he fell. His executioners had to hang him a second time.

After his execution, the remainder of Kidd’s treasure was donated to Greenwich Hospital, a facility for British sailors.

SHIP’S NAMES, A STORY BY ITSELF
Frederick Hanselman, IU.

In the petition of Armenian owners to the Admiralty Court it was named several times QUIDAH MERCHANT alias KARY MERCHANT. Most likely CARA is misspelled KARY.

Quedagh is most likely after the Sultanate Kedah. This was common to give geographical names: India Merchant, Armenian Merchant or Surat Merchant.

What is Kary merchant? One hypothesis is that the Kalantar family which possessed the vessel had a monopole right, granted by the East India Company for the trade of garnets to England. In Armenian Kary Merchant is Stone (precise) Merchant.

ARMENIAN ANGLE.
Dr.Pavel Galoumian, along with his spouse Isabella heads ANAHIT-Armenian Nautical Association for the History of Intermaritime Trade. They are directly involved in archival and field research and had visited Surat last year .Both believe,” The Quedagh Merchant was not an ordinary vessel even the very fact of the appearance of an exotic oriental vessel built in India and belonged to Armenians in Caribbean waters is unique. More important is that the Quedagh Merchant find is valuable when it comes to the whole history of international relations and their evolution towards the modern philosophy, namely that of cooperation and fair trade. She represents an important historical heritage for many great nations of 17th century and merit a wide international recognition. “

PIRATE LINGO
Barnacles –Marine creatures related to crabs and lobsters.

Cackle Fruit-Chicken eggs.

Duffle-Everything a sailor owns, including bag.

Holystone-Bars of stone used to scrub decks, making sailors look like they are kneeling and praying.

Jacob’s Ladder-Rope ladder on ships.

Monkey-Small cannon.

Salmagundi-Popular pirate dish with chopped meat, eggs, anchovies, onions seasoned with garlic, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Black Jack- Large drinking mugs of leather made stiff by applying tar.

Scuttlebutt-Gossip on board deck while passing barrel of booze around.

2010-03-08T19:51:00.001-08:00

T-20’s TAPI TOWN TATTLE.

Indian cricket team’s, friendly, benefit T20 match in Surat, before IPL season 3, was the topic of constant tattle in Tapi town.

Besides an event of this scale being organized for the first time here, Sachin, THE God of cricket, was going to perform for the first time, post the Gwalior glory.

The organizers pleaded Surtis to participate in a peaceful manner during the match and turn this golden opportunity of the town into a proud moment, with dignity.

Surtis buzzed phones over hot topics like, ‘who knows whom how well” and” what is the colour of your ticket?”.

With a seating capacity of 16, 700, at the freshly spruced up Lalbhai Contractor stadium, 14,000 tickets were sold out.

Nomophobics smuggled in phones, hiding them along with unmentionable body parts.

The crowds filled in the stands from 7 in the morning and once inside, it did not matter what colour their entry card was. The upper stalls were filled up with groups of fun loving locals and as usual had the maximum fun.

Most of the ones seated in the pavilion and royal boxes, had come in a couple. There were Sunday papas with enthusiastic poiras (fathers & sons), some senior officials with bored aunties, rich businessmen with pretty girls etc.

Both, Tendulkar and Sehwag’s teams were received with a standing ovation, as were all players who arrived and departed from the playing ground during the match.

Both teams shared the same pairs of cheerleaders.Sehwag and Kaif also shared a cricket bat, while Sachin used two.

Stud Yuvraj wore shoes with yellow soles that matched with his specially designed sunny tee shirt .He scored 12 runs amongst great applause, most hit using a single hand.

The commentator took T 20’s fun theme a tad too seriously and entertained crowds with lines like,’Watt ae sott!”,”Yuvi ke dono hath khule”,’aai hai!” etc.

There was no official score board on the cricket ground to display the score, but then, who was counting.

Entertainment during the lunch break had songs like,’Patiala peg lagakey, mein talli ho gayi”which were sung out to Surtis of the dry state who braved heat, thirst and hunger.

The players relished Corn cheese palak, Mutton seekh kebabs, Paneer lababdar, Chicken mamnas, Tangdi kebabs, Dhara fish tikkas, Chicken Biryani, dal makhani, patra fish, butter chicken boneless and Jeera rice with Mung dal halwa and Gulab Jamun for dessert as Surat nu jaman.

The lunch apparently must have been too heavy for Sehwag, Yuvraj and Gambhir who did not come out to field, post it.

Sachin not only fielded for his team, but also batted to the bowling of Surti boys, Mehul Patel-nickname Mehul Bano and Deepak Bhandari, before getting caught at the boundary by Mehul Bano.

Sehwag’s team won the match but for the Surti’s, they were winner all.

Spectators understandably cheered Sachin the most and remarked,’enaj toh paisa chey.’(He is worth it)

Everyone celebrated by popping soda bottles in the dry state, since champagne is taboo.

Surat’s first friendly T20 match turned out to be a good sign of the times to come.

The security staff, police officials and organizers all breathed a huge sigh of relief and hoped to catch a good night’s sleep at long last.

2010-03-05T23:51:00.000-08:00

WOMEN ON TOP-FIRST LADIES OF BOLLYWOOD.

India’s first Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya is often remembered now and again for her feat in a category that unfortunately does not yet exist in the awards given out for achievements in Indian cinema.

Here are some Divas of Bollywood, first in their league, who set the standard for others to follow.

Devika Rani- Prima Donna, First lady of Indian cinema. First recipient of Dadasaheb Phalke Award in 1970, earlier awarded Padma Shri in 1958. Student of London’s Royal Academy of drama and music. Apprentice to Elizabeth Arden, she was educated in architecture, textile, design décor. Heroine of the 1930’s, yet, way ahead of her times. Shocked prudes with first ever lip lock on screen that ran a record 4 minutes, in the movie Karma, which could put Mallika Sherawat to shame. Set up Bombay Talkies, which gave us the brilliant discovery- Dilip Kumar. This ban ki chidiya was given full state honours on her death in 1994.

Fatima Begum-Bollywood’s first lady director. An Urdu stage artist from Surat,she entered the film line with her debut in acting in Veer Abhimanyu,1922.Within four years went on to venture in writing ,producing ,directing films. Launched her own production house-Fatima films and directed Bulbul –e-Paristan.Shone on the sepia screen with her extremely fair screen, dark make up and fancy wigs. Though her marriage to the then Nawab of Sachin stood disputed in court, she followed her own dreams and paved a path to super success. All her three daughters, Zubeida, Sultan and Shazadi were superstars too.

Zubeida- Legendary actress, stunning beauty; this princess of Sachin, debuted at the mere age of 12. Talented at singing and dancing, she possessed an impeccable gift of speech. Female lead for India’s first talkie-Alam Ara, Prithviraj Raj Kapoor played a supporting actor in it. Her box-office bonanzas jingled cash counters. Highest paid actor of her times. She set the screen afire, portraying characters which ranged from a courtesan to mythological ones. Successive hits include Balidaan based on Tagore’s Sacrifice. Rocked as the circus gal of, ‘Zarina’ whose steamy scenes sent censors in a tizzy.

Nadia- The fearless. India’s first stuntwoman, The Hunterwali, was an Australian- born Mary Ann Evans. Introduced to Bollywood via Wadia Movietone, she broke the belief that heroines should be docile stereotypes, wore figure hugging clothes, knee high boots. Bringing baddies to book by jumping horse carts, fencing with villains, running on train tops, swinging atop chandeliers, performed all her dangerous stunts .This whip brandishing ,bold superwoman, who was queen of tongawallahs and paanwallahs set trends of Hunterwali bags, bangles and chappals,nevertheless.

Usha Khanna-Bollywood’s only established female music director. At sweet sixteen, she composed her own songs without being formally trained in music. Made a grand debut 1959 with ‘Dil Deke Dekho’ and set rumours rife that it was just a publicity stunt and someone else was actually composing the music.50 years in the industry, she still composes tunes for television serials and music videos. Her tune in ‘Har nazar ke sau afsaane’ inspired A R Rahman for ‘Latka dikha diya ‘.Known to promote new talent, Sonu Nigam, Pankaj Udhas, Roop Kumar Rathod,to name a few.

Tun Tun-Christened thus, by Dilip Kumar, this roly poly comedian’s mere presence set off laugh a riot spells.While other actresses starved themselves, Tun Tun constantly ate from her ‘dabba’ on the sets, claiming,’I have to maintain my weight. Born Uma Devi and orphaned as a child, she had a natural funny flair but was a singer by choice. She was introduced to many music directors by Govinda’s parents Arun and Nirmala Devi Ahuja.Her childhood dream to sing for Naushad came true with the chartbuster,’Afsaana likh rahi hoon’,later on his advice she switched to acting.

Nadira-Although Kajol was the first actress to receive an award for a negative role, Bollywood’s original vamp was born with Farhat Ezekiel Nadira.Femme fatale Maya in Shri 420.While Kuldeep Kaur(Anarkali), Manorama, and Shashikala played baddies who troubled the heroines, haughty Nadira made life living hell even for spouses, as the haughty bold savage princess in Aan, jealous wife in Dil apnaa aur preet parai.An established baddie against chaste heroines,she was amongst the first Indian actors to own a Rolls Royce.

Persis Khambatta-Zeenat Aman is considered the first lady in Bollywood to crossover from winning a beauty paegent to acting.Before her, it was Persis Khambatta-India’s bald and beautiful-‘you fascinate me ‘gal, who scored big in Hollywood in spite of not making waves back home. In 1979, she presented an academy award, something that no other citizen of India has been invited to do yet. Breathtaking beauty as llia of Star Trek, she went on to star in Nighthawks, Megaforce, and Warriors of the lost world. Said to have refused to strip for films or Playboy magazine, this Indian hottie dies a controversial, untimely death.

Daisy & Honey Irani-Acting for these balikas, was no kid stuff. Daisy and sister Honey Irani were cherubic charmers, who fetched biggest openings during the golden years of cinema. They were household names as favourite child artists. Roles were specially written to fit them in, films promoted on their basis.Daisy continued to work in the industry for more than 35 films. Honey went on to write successful scripts. She was once married to Javed Akhtar and is the mother of Zoya and Farhan Akhtar.

Sharmila Tagore-Kareena Kapoor took to Tashan and melted down to size zero for impact in a bikini. But, it was beau Saif Ali Khan’s mommy dearest who first sizzled on Indian screen in an itsy bitsy, teeny weenie, bikini. Tagore who began her career with Satyajit Ray’s Apur Sansar and stole many hearts as the Kashmir ki kali, ended the age of innocence with an Evening in Paris. This put the established actress on the list of Indian Cinema’s hottest heroines forever.